RCLAB 7even Cars.
#961
Tech Adept
holy crap,
that is a great price, i will look into that
THANKS seaball
holla
net
that is a great price, i will look into that
THANKS seaball
holla
net
#964
Tech Rookie
carpet
what is a good carpet set up with foam tires and asphalt with rubber tires and a monster hp stock motor?
#965
hey touringcardude - good to see some more lab drivers here in the states. i've been running ozite with the lab on foams since october. it's really ripping right now. i'll post my setup. i've found that our setups here are way off what they run elsewhere. rollout, stiffness...etc. regardless, here's what working best for me now. our layout is a sweeping course using a 110 x 50 template.
motor
- monster with red/red and 767's
gearing
- 31/96 with 2.275 dia foams for a 6.74:1 overall, and rollout of 1.06
transmission
- double diff setup
body
- protoform 300m
weight
- 1455g rtr with transponder
setup (front/rear)
tires
- jaco plaid/jaco purple
tire sauce
- paragon ground effects (half/full)
ride height
- 5mm/5mm
droop
- 1.5mm/3mm
toe
- 0/1.5 (stock)
castor
- 5* alum c hubs/na
camber
- -1/-2 (using links mounted on chassis, and to furthest hole on hubs)
shock
- xpress(same as kit)
- out on arm, 2nd in on tower/middle on arm, outer on tower (c/f towers)
piston
- 2 hole/2 hole
oil
- assoc 50wt/assoc 40wt
spring
- 34 lb/ 31 lb (trinity congo yellows, but bad tollerances)
sway bars
- no/no
that should just about cover it. depending on the type of ozite, you may need to go down one rate in springs/oil. at our other club, this setup is a bit stiff, but i just let the car "warm into" the track. hope this is close, 'cause i've yet to see another carpet setup posted for american tracks with foams.
later, and welcome!
motor
- monster with red/red and 767's
gearing
- 31/96 with 2.275 dia foams for a 6.74:1 overall, and rollout of 1.06
transmission
- double diff setup
body
- protoform 300m
weight
- 1455g rtr with transponder
setup (front/rear)
tires
- jaco plaid/jaco purple
tire sauce
- paragon ground effects (half/full)
ride height
- 5mm/5mm
droop
- 1.5mm/3mm
toe
- 0/1.5 (stock)
castor
- 5* alum c hubs/na
camber
- -1/-2 (using links mounted on chassis, and to furthest hole on hubs)
shock
- xpress(same as kit)
- out on arm, 2nd in on tower/middle on arm, outer on tower (c/f towers)
piston
- 2 hole/2 hole
oil
- assoc 50wt/assoc 40wt
spring
- 34 lb/ 31 lb (trinity congo yellows, but bad tollerances)
sway bars
- no/no
that should just about cover it. depending on the type of ozite, you may need to go down one rate in springs/oil. at our other club, this setup is a bit stiff, but i just let the car "warm into" the track. hope this is close, 'cause i've yet to see another carpet setup posted for american tracks with foams.
later, and welcome!
Last edited by seaball; 02-10-2003 at 09:57 AM.
#966
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (50)
My First RC Lab car
Hey guys!!!!
Just purchase a used 7even 6.0 pro car. Have few questions.
1) I need to rebuild shocks. Any tricks to it or just follow the manual.
2) Do most people just tape their battery in or do you actual use the battery hold down that comes with it?
3) I have heard of a new chassis for the car. Is it out? Is it needed? Any different traits from the original. I will be running mostly mod with foams on blown & prepared parking lot
4) how about these aLum. outdrives and bones. Will putting black grease on help the wear or should I make some mod. I have also seen something about some blades for the car. Any info on that?
5) Which of these following brand of springs fits the best on these shocks (Assoc. , Yokomo, Kyosho or Losi)
Thanks for you help and am sure I will have others once it gets running.
Just purchase a used 7even 6.0 pro car. Have few questions.
1) I need to rebuild shocks. Any tricks to it or just follow the manual.
2) Do most people just tape their battery in or do you actual use the battery hold down that comes with it?
3) I have heard of a new chassis for the car. Is it out? Is it needed? Any different traits from the original. I will be running mostly mod with foams on blown & prepared parking lot
4) how about these aLum. outdrives and bones. Will putting black grease on help the wear or should I make some mod. I have also seen something about some blades for the car. Any info on that?
5) Which of these following brand of springs fits the best on these shocks (Assoc. , Yokomo, Kyosho or Losi)
Thanks for you help and am sure I will have others once it gets running.
#967
Welcome rodney,
If you go thru the previous pages you will find lots of info in getting your new ride hook.There's a couple ways you can have your batteries secure down.The plastic battery holders or the optioned carbon fibre plates.
The rear diff out drives.It works better with the blades.You may have to machine it or use a dremel to make the slots bigger to accomodate the blades.It'll basically helps the outdrives from pitting.
As for the lubing it,black grease works.But I use Judy Butter.Seems to work really well.It's from the bike shop for the shocks.
Springs,man..lots of choices.I use Hpi ones as they are locally stock alomost every where or try AE ones.Tamiya and Kyosho are good too.
Rebuilding shocks.Take your time and follow the instructions,you should be fine.
Hope all these help you get started.
If you go thru the previous pages you will find lots of info in getting your new ride hook.There's a couple ways you can have your batteries secure down.The plastic battery holders or the optioned carbon fibre plates.
The rear diff out drives.It works better with the blades.You may have to machine it or use a dremel to make the slots bigger to accomodate the blades.It'll basically helps the outdrives from pitting.
As for the lubing it,black grease works.But I use Judy Butter.Seems to work really well.It's from the bike shop for the shocks.
Springs,man..lots of choices.I use Hpi ones as they are locally stock alomost every where or try AE ones.Tamiya and Kyosho are good too.
Rebuilding shocks.Take your time and follow the instructions,you should be fine.
Hope all these help you get started.
#968
Just curious, where does RCLAB originates from, Canada?
#970
Thx Crisman. It looks good. Not bad for the price either.
#971
Why don't people use the original lab spring sets.?
Q.-
Steve
Q.-
Steve
Last edited by Stevie; 02-17-2003 at 12:09 PM.
#972
i don't use them, because i just use what i have. also, it's difficult for me to get parts for the lab so i'm not gonna fuss over springs that i could pick up here. and if you're talking about the black one's with the kit, they are just way too soft for carpet and foam tires.
#973
I use whatever springs I have, although right now I need to get some softer springs and so will be getting lab ones, simply because they are cheapest, they have the most sensible range too, a lot like the HPI range but a little more regularly spaced. Suppose for once being in the UK has it's advantages, seeing as we can get lots more parts for the lab easily.
A word of warning, after recently fitting the titanium turnbuckles to my car I've found the small clip on ball cups used for some links tend to stretch too much. You get a white ring around them where the turnbuckle stops and they get very weak. I'll have to ask Modeltech about this, seems like I'll have trouble with the bottom steering linkages, which luckily I didn't change over yet since I didn't want to ruin my setup (ok ok I'm lazy too)
Just back from my first night using my new KO Vantage 2 radio which I got second hand, being able to adjust the amount of steering is very very useful, especially on the lab. Unfortunatly the wooden gym floor was incredibly dusty tonight so even with new radio I was sliding everywhere.
A word of warning, after recently fitting the titanium turnbuckles to my car I've found the small clip on ball cups used for some links tend to stretch too much. You get a white ring around them where the turnbuckle stops and they get very weak. I'll have to ask Modeltech about this, seems like I'll have trouble with the bottom steering linkages, which luckily I didn't change over yet since I didn't want to ruin my setup (ok ok I'm lazy too)
Just back from my first night using my new KO Vantage 2 radio which I got second hand, being able to adjust the amount of steering is very very useful, especially on the lab. Unfortunatly the wooden gym floor was incredibly dusty tonight so even with new radio I was sliding everywhere.
#974
hey guys. i've got a quick question... i think. do any of you run the lower rear roll center position? aka - using the upper hingepin hole on the hub. i'd really like to experiment with a lower roll center both front and rear. when my foams are cut down below 2.30 or so, the car is getting more responsive due to less sidewall flex, and also the fact that the roll center contiuously raises as the tires wear down, given constant ride height. i like running at that diameter, but it's right around there that i begin to get traction lifting. i suspect it is the jacking effect of the relatively high roll center built into the car. the front rc is relatively locked, and i can't imagine that the car will improve if the rear roll center is lower than the front, but i'd like your opinions or results.
thanks, chris.
thanks, chris.
#975
Seaball,
Technically,it makes good sense to do it with the Low Cg at rear when running foams on carpet.I don't run it that way,as I haven't found benificial for me yet.This is in regards with the plastic rear hubs.The new ones have one extra hole(total of 3 instead of 2) to drop it even further could be good.
Right now,the lowest hole is what I'm at with foams and rubber.If I were to have small foams(thin)I would drop it to the highest hole to compensate.To do that,I'll need a sponsor for foams...
keep truing them to that size.Sway bars in the frt would help too to keep it from jacking.I'll work on a better way to mount the frt sways so it work better without breaking the frt ball ends for the link on the frt lwr arms.Keep on coming boys........
Technically,it makes good sense to do it with the Low Cg at rear when running foams on carpet.I don't run it that way,as I haven't found benificial for me yet.This is in regards with the plastic rear hubs.The new ones have one extra hole(total of 3 instead of 2) to drop it even further could be good.
Right now,the lowest hole is what I'm at with foams and rubber.If I were to have small foams(thin)I would drop it to the highest hole to compensate.To do that,I'll need a sponsor for foams...
keep truing them to that size.Sway bars in the frt would help too to keep it from jacking.I'll work on a better way to mount the frt sways so it work better without breaking the frt ball ends for the link on the frt lwr arms.Keep on coming boys........