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Old 02-04-2003, 09:12 AM   #946
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DANDAN,

Excellent big pictures...nice paint too on the stratus.Looks like you are keeping up with your lap pace too.... whats with the extra screws on the servo saver?......weight balancing?...
Thanks for the photos...is that the track you run on?...Any pics of the track?...
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Old 02-04-2003, 04:02 PM   #947
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Yeah i will be there on the friday befor the race,
Yeah i will talk to peter about the new parts, should be good.
Ok..sway bars are in the bag...
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Old 02-04-2003, 05:04 PM   #948
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I just talked to Peter, and he doesnt have those new parts in stock.. i wanted them so bad..they look so nice. he will have them soon
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Old 02-04-2003, 06:34 PM   #949
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whoa there are a lot of people here, that means we are almost at 1000!!!

-DanDAn- too bad u sold the lab, all it needed is a good wiring job, and all would be good. your choise(not trying to sound mean)

-anyways i am excited because i just got back from Virginia BEach and went racing!!!!!!!, in the first race i got 3rd out of 6, the second race 4 out of 8, then the B main, i got 3rd out out of 8!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHOO HOO!!!!!!, i got a little certificate, and a 20$ certificate, I bought a new motor, THEY HAVE THE BEST PRICES, by the way it is Hobbytown USA and motors are 26.99!!, so i got a great deal.

-i was thinkin and wanted to know if anyone had a built, or unbuilt lab for sale, for like 150$, or $100, doesnt need anything, i just want another car, so i can use my car right now as a parts car. I just want to start over and not have to purchase new parts.
thanks


holla
nate

Last edited by RSX Type 7even; 02-04-2003 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:20 PM   #950
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congrats nate! it's a fun and competent car isn't it? props to you and your lab. did you get a stock motor? i need a new one. i've got tons, but my favorite monster stocker com is at .264 and that was before i ran it this past weekend. you shouldn't have a problem finding a used lab for that price. check with chrisman as i know he's got more than one and they are always tip top.
later dude,
chris.
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Old 02-05-2003, 12:45 AM   #951
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If you look closer, you wil notice that the wiring job is verry verry neat.... but the ORION PERSONAL LAP COUNTER WIRING ISNT.
the reason for this is eas of access, when you are constenly removing the lap counter it would make it difficult if the wires were all tucked in or zip tied on....
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Old 02-05-2003, 02:28 AM   #952
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hihi,

sorry about the big size of the images as I'm so lazy to re-size them, haha, I'm also lazy on wiring the lap counter sensor as well, I did it really nice before but once I come up with race meetings it just ignoring lol.

Yes, sometimes I do miss my Rclab, but also want to drive different cars kit to learn more.

the screws on servo saver for mounting the "rclab servo top bite" to my Tamiya servo saver. I think most of the people already change to Tamiya servo saver and that's the best mod to get the correct servo rod link angle in order to make the servo work easier.
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Old 02-05-2003, 01:24 PM   #953
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ohhh thanks seaball, hopefully i can get a car, the motor i bought is my favorite, a P2K2!!, i love that motor, it works great in my car and track.

DanDan, Painy- i understand about the wiring job, there was a guy with a Pro 3 with that thing and also had that many wires, no biggie.

have fun
nate
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Old 02-06-2003, 01:02 AM   #954
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ok now on the standard rear hubs......there are two hinge pin mounting positions..at the moment iam useing the lower one..
is this effectively role center ajustment, otherwaise what does the top hole do? what does role center ajustment do if the car has anything you can ajust it with?
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Old 02-06-2003, 04:56 AM   #955
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The standard hub hinge pin position (lower hole), give higher roll center than the upper hole. Change to upper hinge pin hole will give very strong initial steering (worst will become spin out), and under-steering when weight transfer are static (under-steer in the middle part of turns).

Have a try and see how it's go, it's only require you to adjust the camber and ride height after you done this setup change. You might like it or don't like it. My experience is don't alter the roll center position way too much different between front and rear, as we have better alternative to adjust the weight transfer such as spring, wheel rate, sway bar, height (roll stiffness).
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Old 02-06-2003, 11:36 PM   #956
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Hello,

Well Said DanDan.Most racers uses the lower hole on the rear hubs.Working with the suspensions is the best way to keep the car handling consistent.Keep up the good racing......
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Old 02-07-2003, 12:36 AM   #957
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Thanks

how's your 7even Chirsman, sometimes I saw you on the Rclab official web site but donno why they suddenly dissappear, maybe updating somethings in there.
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Old 02-07-2003, 03:16 AM   #958
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ok sweet..also....when i move the pin to the top hole..does this creat less camber change throughout a corner..beecause if you look at it like a hing , it shouldnt move as far??? or am i trippen?
You really know alot Dan Dan, i would hope you could give me a hand with setup on the day..as i havent driven the car on rubbers befor..to i might be in some trouble.
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Old 02-07-2003, 05:49 AM   #959
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Hi Painy,

Yes, lower roll center also give you less camber change, but honestly, if I really need to adjust the roll center or camber change, I'm rather to do it with upper camber link instead.

Changing the hinge pin hole will effect on both upper link and suspension arm angles, It's very confuse to me if I play around it.

actually, for more information on roll center, Orion web site FAQ has the best and enough information on it.

Car Handling -suspension topic

I couldn't come on Friday, very sorry.. I need to fix my skool stuffs and I think better save this day for my girlfriend..

Don't worry, just trust me and bring your car back to standard setup, if you found not enough steering on Hopper crossing indoor track you may want to try the follows:

- less suspension travel on the front
OR laid down the front shocks
OR soften the front spring

If you found not enough grip and car running flat like a pan car, sliding everywhere. Try longer and higher (parallel) on front and rear camber link, that will give you more roll and consistent rolling, best combine with stiff spring such as standard "black" or any stiffer.
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Old 02-07-2003, 10:45 PM   #960
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nate - check it dude!http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=13088

lata
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