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Old 01-28-2003, 04:10 PM   #916
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Hemanator,
Ive just got myself a RC LAB from Modetech,but this is my first year with T/C has i use to do 1/12th.What i want to ask you is do you think the Matrix would be any good for are outdoor tracks,do you know what revs etc it pulls,also has any one got much advise on running stocks with the Lab.what gearing do you use for out door tracks & doese the LAB need much altering from kit to preforme well with stock,which are the better stocks to use for asphalt tracks with the LAB.
Any advise would gratefully be apreciated
(sorry about my spelling)
cheers stevie
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Old 01-28-2003, 04:50 PM   #917
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hey stevie,
welcome to the club. the lab is a really fun car. it is a competitor out of the box. some of the mods that the site has you can do w/o buying anything extra. it's a durable car too.

i had some breaking problems with the front hubs early on but i solved that. infact, i'll share my solution. the kit plastic is fairly wimpy. i kept pulling kingpins out of the bottom. i think this was due to the lack of surface area that the bushing has where it meets the hub. i put a steel washer under the block for the bushing to tighten against, which not only strengthened it, but took out any slop. with the plastic carriers, you can shim it just a bit snug and you'll be all set.

some guys say to soak belts in wd40. it does soften them, but it will shrink them as well. avoid doing this until you run some stretch into them as the front is tight right from initial buildup.

here, everyone has taken a liking to the new monster stock. it really does rip. a balanced powerband that just keeps revving. like chrisman, i too love the old p2k's. i toggled between the two on saturday, but i think the monster is the way to go for any sweeping track like our current layout. a few have tried the matrix, but it's been hit or miss, and nobody has seemed to find a good tuning method or trick. i did watch one destroy the stock class back in september on a huge asphalt track. the thing is finding out which matrix to get. i guess there is a torque based one, and an rpm one. alot of people had trouble telling the difference on the track i'd say go with the solid performers. p2k, p2k2, or monster. you'll not be disappointed and they run pretty cool compared to the top based motors like the core or mvp.
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Old 01-28-2003, 05:28 PM   #918
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There are two kinds of Matrix, the V10R is the torquey version but even that is meant to be more high revving than just about any other stock there is, and the V10 has even more revs, meaning you have to run some strange sounding gear ratios. So they should both be very suited to outdoor racing. A lot of people have apparently been saying the motor just doesn't perform well enough but they've not been letting the motor rev. I know at my indoor track the V10R has been geared properly using a ratio very close to what I've been using with my GM3, and my motor isn't running very hot meaning I could go for a bigger pinion.
No one has tried the Monster motor around here, people don't normaly change motors that much, it doesn't matter quite as much when the floor is dusty and the track isn't huge.

I've not managed to break anything on my Lab, I've had a ball cup pop off a couple times but thats it. I tend to crash less and less now and there's only walls and other cars to hit, we lay our track out with old flat firehose so you can run over it or get caught up in it. It does cause the occasional problem with corner cutting and sometimes people loosing control and ending up in oncoming traffic but it saves marshals having to run out onto the track every 5 seconds when cars would have ended up nose into a barrier.
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Old 01-28-2003, 06:27 PM   #919
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Thanx guys
Im really tied so i will read the posts tomorrow ,ive just been building the Lab,but need some advise about the diffs,i got myself an extra diff for the front,so that i can brake.etc
I asked Mike/Modeltech to set both of the diffs for me-which he has but hes made one tighter than the other-he did tell me which way round to install them,but ive forgot...which way do the diffs go,tighter one at the rear or tighter one at the front..?..
Thanks
steve
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Old 01-28-2003, 08:10 PM   #920
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if your track is slippy then put the loose one in the rear, this will make the power balance go more to the front so you won't have the rear trying to overtake the front when you exit a corner.
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Old 01-28-2003, 11:52 PM   #921
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Seaball is right about the monster motor...it has both pwer and rpm.It ribs!!>.. as for Matrix..not many racers got their hands on them.It's basically whats readily avialable.MOst lhs carries the P2ks,Pros,GM3 and monster now....seems to be the choice of racers..can't go wrong there.

Racing the lap is a lot of fun.Once you are in the lead or finished top 10 in the A main...there's some serious competition there.There's gonna be ooo's!! and Aahhs!! when they look at the car,they'll say..a mid motor!!!...

Steevie,
welcome to the forum..had missed that out earlier...

Herminator,

Fire hoses...they are great for outdoor racing..no boards to hit.But watch out for traffic if you x the line...Indoors now ,where I raced,uses pvc piping.forgiving but bounces the car of really fast....I did broke parts when I started,but now down to very minimal.Mod classes is what I'm used too,but any competition I get is awesome.Walls is another thing...the don't move...last weekend,broke a ball end stud and melted my belt tensioner.....no biggy...fixed them all before the next race....
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Old 01-29-2003, 07:45 AM   #922
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Sounds like you have amuch larger club than meI can normaly make it into the A, although it sometimes depends on how big they make the finals, since the number of people at the track can vary by enough to make it sensible to change the finals to reasonable sizes, normaly 6+ in 3 finals or about 8 in 2 finals.

I have plenty of aluminium parts on my Lab so theey've not broken but the lab seems a strong var anyway, I don't remeber seeing and big breakages on any 4 of the labs at my track, and one is in the hands of a tempramental little kid, who gets pretty fast equipment thanks to his big brother being the fast guy I was talking about before.

The only place I've seen selling the Matrix motors is Modeltech, they don't seem to have a huge variety of stock but what they do get in is more unusual and interesting. They only cater for Coraly kits and the rc lab, the Corraly modified motors they get seem to be very very fast, I've not used one myself yet but hope to this summer, it's nice to not use what everyone else is using.
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Old 01-29-2003, 01:50 PM   #923
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http://www.rcpitstop.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1926

Check out the track pics.......thanks to INFERNO...

Last edited by chrisman; 01-29-2003 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 01-30-2003, 12:32 AM   #924
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nice pics. sweet track. i saved those for my next campaign to change track layout.

chrisman - i deslopped my cvd's tonight. i did this one of two ways. the easier! now they have almost zero slop. i mean it's like the amount of slop the spur has on the pinion!

method one - (new barrel) when looking at the cvds' i noticed that most of the slop was due to the center barrel being worn, or just under sized to begin with. my first thought was to use 1/8" stainless rod turned down a few 1000ths until a snug fit was accomplished. then just cross drill it with .062, and use existing cross pin to reassemble and be done. but this won't snug up the slop that the bone holes contribute if they are reamed out. so...

method two - (new pin) i used all the original parts, but bored through everything .076 and shoved a .078 pin through the whole thing. not all at once, but you get the point. the slots in the axle are just that, .078. it was really tight after assembly, but i chucked the axles into the dremel, and spun them with the bone in my fingers. i went till the bone could be moved through it's full travel without binding. that's it. zero slop...for now.

the only thing that concerns me is the lack of material left when drilling out the bones. very close to pulling the pin out the side. we'll see what happens. it sure feels nice to wiggle the wheels though.

chrisman, the whole point of this story is...which way do you do it? and does the one way tear up your front joints?

which reminds me. i said the spool got all torn up by the drive pins, and i found out today, durring my cvd rebuild, that the pins in the cvd joint were severred inside the barrel. both sides. brutal!

well guys that's enough for me tonight.
later,
chris.
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Old 01-30-2003, 10:34 AM   #925
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BTW I have changed to MIP ones. I found some MIP from a Yokomo TC (early model) fits perfect and they dont wear like the original ones. No modifications unless you are using ally hex in that case you need to enlarge the hole of you hex, or use the Yok ones.. The plastic ones will fit fine...
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Old 01-31-2003, 02:55 AM   #926
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Hey Guys..iam a new Lab Driver... from Australia

Just got the car the other month and have driven it 3 times..verry happy with it i just finished 3rd in Stock at the Summer Nats.. i verry competative race meet..

Also NOFX dominated His Final as well with his Lab...

We were both using RAce Prep Motors and SMC 3000 HV's

the surface is high wearing medium Grip Ashvolt...

I will post my setup soon...we were using role outs of 31-33..

So happy with this car..better than my fully worked XXX's..I hope to be on this forumn alot..so i hope we can help each other out.

One question..if your car needs more corner speed.. what would you change?? i always thought to go Harder All round..or should you go harder on the rear only..or softer on the front..
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Old 01-31-2003, 03:53 AM   #927
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Also i was interested to know how manny of you use the longer camper link on the front hubs..i know its spose to give you a smother reacting car..and more mid corner steering but what would you loose from this>> direction change...??
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Old 01-31-2003, 10:43 AM   #928
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I've found the standard kit settings work best, I've heard a lot of people try changing small things here and there but generaly they always go back to kit, maybe with one link position changed to suit a particular track a little more. It seems the best way to balance the cars grip is by changing springs. I've not touched my setup in over a month now though, I've got it controlable for dusty wooden floors but I can still get the back end out if I need to. It's the first time I've had any car setup so I know what it will do every time I make an input on the controller.

One problem I have had is the amount of steering response I get with the kit linkages. I just had far too much, no matter how much I did to the setup I couldn't get enough grip at the rear to compensate for the very reactive steering, even though I was making tiny inputs. I've had to drill a hole on the servo horn as close to the center as I could go without it making the ball link catching on the servo itself. I am looking for a second hand computerised radio set so that I can reduce the steering more accuratly and easily but even in the UK there aren't many computerised stick sets, one at a little over 100 that looks cheap and feels cheap and then two good sets at 250 for a KO Vantage 2 and 300+ for the Futaba 3VC. Unfortunatly I like the look of the most expensive one and it's not nearly as common when it comes to people selling them second hand. It's nicer IMO because it has rubberised side and is much more rounded making it more comfy in the hands but if I see a vantage cheap enough I'll have to go with that.

Suppose I better go fit my Titanium turnbuckles for this sunday's Scottish GP hope I don't mess up my setup.
With my new motor I hope to be able to chalenge the B final but I'll probably be lucky to make the C if it's very busy.
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Old 01-31-2003, 04:05 PM   #929
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herminator - i feel ya. with the kit servo saver (crap), the steering is very responsive if you run in the top hole. i run a kimbrough heavy duty and i love it. i run the ball out about .800 from the spline. it works fairly well there, but my servo has a transit time of .11. kind of slow for a digital servo. another thing i did was to run the drag link balls atop the tie rod balls, so that they share the same hole on the bell crank. the innerhole on the bellcrank allows play to be magnified since its so close to the pivot axis. this tightens everything up, but won't change response. once you get a digital radio, you'll see the car calm down. setting epa's and backing off the throw with the dual rate setting will fix all of that aggressiveness. good luck with your search. it will be well worth it when you find it.

painey - welcome aboard. you'll find tons of help as well as breaking rclab news right here!!!
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Old 01-31-2003, 05:07 PM   #930
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Hello Painy,

Welcome....Had spoken to Peter Sitt reasonly,gave me a input of the race you all just ran.Sounds like a lot of fun and competition against some of the factory or team drivers there.Wish I was there.... some nice weather there.Although it was not the smoothest race....held by the Corally distributors...
Hell...7 gave them a good run for their buck.

I have been using longer upper links frt and rear and I had used it outdoors and indoors carpet now..I had never changed it.It has been very consistent for me.All I had been doing is changing my shock oil,spring rates and tires.(Herminator) right on!!..

Scottish GP..what's it like?.....I just wish I can go around the world and race .. only in my dreams.. titanium turn buckles are nice. have courage....you will make it to the B's or A's...have fun is the most improtant factor.Godd Luck..

Soneteer...got the part # by any chance.?

slop for me in mod...does not really boders me....only in stk racing when I need ever inch of power.I'm constantly going thru the blades though.The Cvd's when I rebuild them,I uses a grease made for mountain bikes forks.They are nice.Slow down the wearing big time.Needs cleaning if you dusty outdoor tracks.The grease is call Judy Butter.......dunno why they called it butter.
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