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Old 11-13-2002, 10:07 AM   #781
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SEABALL:

Dont cut the brass rings as they can be easily removed.

Just open the jaws of a vice up enough to stop the brass ring but not the CVD bell, then lightly use a hammer to tap at the other end of the dog bone and the ring will slid off to the middle of the drive shaft...

REfitting is reversal of the above!

Remember to find the right length CVD pins cos the ones comes from the rebuidable kit are too short for the non rebuidable CVDs ( I know I have tried it!)

I have since canged mine to MIP ones and the ones I got fitted perfectly, only have to bore out the hexes to let the whole drive shaft thru... but it is perfect now!!!

BTW what are those lurvly top shock mounts you got on your shock tower... I am looking some like those so I can easily change shock position!!!
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Old 11-13-2002, 11:54 AM   #782
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ya'know, i thought of that very process, but i thought i'd ask before i started pounding just in case they are really fit with compression. thank you very much.

the upper shock balls are threaded corally balls. the screw fits through all the spacers and threads into the ball. i love them. i try to keep threading into and out of plastic to a minimum. with this setup, i just unscrew the top, pull out the screw (while keeping an eye on the spacers), and lever the shocks down to pop the rpm cup off of the ball in the arm. never do i have to mess with the plastic. i know ofna makes aluminum hex standoffs with a ball on the end that are threaded the entire length. that's even better than my spacers. i'm not sure that the ball diameter is that same as the socket in the lab shock tops though.

by the way, another 13 runs in after rebuilding my diffs, and they are toast again. i've got to pinpoint where the damage is occurring, and of course minimize the cause. i think i will build lexan shields out of the trc wheel shields and ca them to the diff pulley flanges. i can't wait until the ca drips into all of the teeth and ruins my pullies! careful! anyone know if the diff rings are coated? i appear to have sanded through a chrome coating of sorts.

another mod:
i don't have a pic...i know, thank god...right? but i changed the ackermann, or drag, link on the steering to share the same hole location as the outer links on the bellcrank tab. i used a threaded corally ball , go figure...eh. put a longer screw in from the top and use the ball as a nut on the bottom of it where the original ball threaded into. it just requires that you use the same ballend as for the camber links to fit onto the new ball. this puts a little less force on the assembly and reduces overall steering slop caused by the ackermann ballends. another benefit, is steering throw...god forbid we ever need it. if you run the aluminum carriers this will give the capability to let the hub meet the carrier upon full lock. something should really be wrong if this is needed.

Last edited by seaball; 11-13-2002 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 11-14-2002, 12:17 AM   #783
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Hey Seaball,
Im using a servo with a speed of .08 sec / 60 deg. By all means let me know of your result. Are you also running on Ozite? I'll post some pics of my car. BTW - the internal gearing i used was the old one ---> 15/32. I have the 17/37 and will try those out next race.
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Old 11-14-2002, 08:50 AM   #784
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speedo,
i am running on ozite as well. sounds like our transit times are comparable. i think you'll like the 17/37 setup. it lets the belt need tensioning for both front and rear, so you'll need another tensioner for the front. the nice part is that this way you can run your belts really loose. it seems to me that the 15/32 setup leaves you with a front belt that is way too tight for stock racing, and there's nothing you can do about it.

btw - has anyone found that the top of the shocks are leaking air out of the ball socket? two of mine are. i've fixed it with a dab of shoo goo inside. i found that two of my shocks wouldn't ever build up to hold any pressure. i always like the shocks to push the piston back to extension before i put my springs on. helps for droop. i'm still working out the bugs i guess.
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Old 11-14-2002, 09:47 AM   #785
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seaball: I too have problems with leaking shocks. I plan to replace the current ones with Yokomo threaded shocks soon.
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Old 11-14-2002, 03:23 PM   #786
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yeah, that's a good replacement, but i hate colored metal. it's just cheesy to me. i'm not sure how the lengths match up with the yoks, but there is an ofna threaded set on ebay right now that will have the same proportions. i run them on my schumacher and they fit the same as the lab stock ones. another option is to grab an old express off of ebay, and switch the shocks and resell or keep for the spare cvd's and diff parts. well worth it. they go for like 50 bucks for the whole car. i'd sooner do that, then pay that for four shocks. the yok shocks are as good as they come though. just some options.
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Old 11-14-2002, 09:30 PM   #787
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I don't really like it either, but if you soak them in oven cleaner (the nasty stuff with lye) overnight and clean them with a wire brush they'll be natural colored. This is what i did with my TC3, it turned out pretty well. you might want to polish them afterwards after, too.
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Old 11-14-2002, 10:39 PM   #788
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Hello...

Leaky shocks.Heem ... I had build mine once and had no problems with them for a long time.Make sure the inside bladders are not damaged to leak out.I usually take the extra few minutes to built them or changing oil weight.This is very odd.Mine is all stock out of the box and I did replace the bladders after a while of driving.This is to keep the same amount of pressure.You can try different bladders and go frm there.I even have just an o ring on top of the bladder so it won't be pinch from full compression of the shock shaft.Thats just a prcaution.

As for treaded shocks,not a big fan...as a little too much on oneside would alter the performance..compared to the shimmed type,I like them better as I know the shims are same thickness.
The ofna ones are not the greates..as I had tried them before..they leak and material used is not the greatest..Won't handle the abuse.

Best shocks tested was the tamiya gold low friction ones....they never leaks and very smooth.
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Old 11-16-2002, 02:47 PM   #789
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As promised..here's a top view of my ride.


Enjoy.
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Old 11-16-2002, 02:49 PM   #790
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Here's a better one.
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Old 11-16-2002, 04:02 PM   #791
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hey all,

on the shock bladders, never had it happen, maybe a defect?

chrisman Nice car, do i see 2 capacitors?

well nothin much about to get my speedo from the company 2morrow "YEEAHH" then i will get her runnin with my new P2K pro, i will ahve to try out the on road setup that rsspeedo mentioned, sounds good.

holla,
nate
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Old 11-16-2002, 05:29 PM   #792
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chrisman,
that's a beauty. when did you start running the inner camber ends to the bulkheads? how do you like it? like i said, i don't have anything to compare it to, but i've plenty of steering. any chance i could benefit from some added chassis flex on ozite. usually everyone runs stiff as he.. i was thinking of oring-ing the rear. bad idea? we'll see how tomorrow goes with stiffer springs in the rear.
later.
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Old 11-16-2002, 08:34 PM   #793
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Lightbulb

With regards to the leaky rclab shocks, I had experienced this before and it was the transparent cup that goes on top of the shocks and in between the shock body and the shock cap. The transparent cup had been cut at the sides and this was barely noticeable until you flex the cup a bit. Just a small cut will make it leak because of the pressure and will make the cut bigger overtime.

I'm done converting my EVO I to an EVO II, specifically the chassis and the internal gearing. I'll run this gearing with the same setup that I have and see wether I can come up with better lap times.
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Old 11-16-2002, 09:29 PM   #794
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yeah, i've torn the diaphrams before, that'll make the shocks feel bubbly, but usually they'll still hold pressure. the diaphram is just used to separate the air and fluid. if it is mixed, and there is no loss of either air or fluid, the pressure will still be there. what i was having is a leak out of the small hole in the center of the cap. this hole seemed so deep, that it ran into the hole of the ball socket. i found it when i had so much oil all over the shock as a result of numerous, subsequent rebuildings. it was only when i saw the air bubble out from the ball socket, that i finally knew. i had clean oil, free of bubbles each time i uncapped. so prior to my discovery, i was perplexed. no big deal, i just thought i'd mention it, because it cost me a lot of time figuring out what it was. good luck to everyone racing this weekend. i want some good results.
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Old 11-18-2002, 11:04 PM   #795
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Hey Seaball & Rsx,

Thanks for the comment.... glad you guys like it.
I had the car ran once so far with the upper links changes..but out door though..My finding on it ,is that the car has a better feel to it than what I had before..more like ,I can predict the car even better in corners (more stable) .

I would like to try foams on it.I can feel that it'll be a blast to drive on carpet with foams Since on rubber tires are doing better than I thought.

As for the top cap for the shocks..having a pin hole on the top is highly unlikely to have happen..but maybe when it was molded..there could be an air bubble trapped in..and caused the pin hole when it cured.I would replace it with a new one or sent it back to your LHS for an exchange.As this would be a defect.Oh well....

Flex for rear traction can be control by using a dremmel to cut the top plate towards the frt.Depending how much you want,thats how deep or depth of the cut into the plate.Just like the Xray top plate.As for me I have mine cut in halves as seen in the pics I posted.This is good too...it clears the rear belt very nicely.

Using O rings is ok..but chances of losing the screws are high...I would not sugest doing it..unless you want to risk it.I want to finish my mains..


RSX..yes there's 2 caps on top of the ESC...
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