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Old 09-16-2002, 01:27 AM   #721
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looks nice chrisman. ummm. do you find that the amount of steering travel is enough? will the stubby bellcranks turn enough to get lock to lock steering? just some questions that have risen upon scrutinizing the chassis. i do consider the thought of either shaving the hub or the carrier to get more travel on the inside wheel. will the bellcrank assembly support increased travel? i really wish the bell cranks were narrower on center and back 1/4" with 1/4 " longer tabs all around. that would keep the ackermann link from binding on the vertical part of the bellcrank. i'm sure it's not an issue, but it just looks a bit tight when i move the parts back and forth. i just need to build it and shut up.
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Old 09-16-2002, 01:37 AM   #722
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oh yeah, did you try the o-ring trick on the rear? still not as forgiving as the split top plate? just wondering before i go hacking. later.
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Old 09-16-2002, 09:19 AM   #723
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Hello Seaball,

The o ring trick in the rear would work well woth a little flex.But if you were to used the car on carpet with foams with high traction,I suggest you to leave the o ring out.You be surprise how stiff the chassis.Tweak is most of the problems with touring car..with that you'll almost see none.

The frt steering,I would not shave it any further,as it comprimise the strength of the part.You want the car to be durable not fragile..... it'll function well.Make sure there's no binding.If so a little sanding would be fine....make sure the king pins are not over tighten and a little slop there is good. CYA.
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Old 09-18-2002, 08:47 PM   #724
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The Lab seems to have less steering lock than most cars but I don't think it's a problem, infact I suspect it helps give the car it's smoothness. If you need a little more steering then try lowering the mounting position for the upper turnbukles on the front.

Have any of you guys tried the lay down rear shocks? It is supposed to give an awsome amount of rear end grip and very little trouble with bumps or having to run harder springs. It's often needed to change the front end setup to give more steering though as the balance changes to the rear so much. I'll be trying it soon indoors on a wooden floor, since I've been struggling with the rear end swinging out a lot.
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Old 09-19-2002, 12:46 AM   #725
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test
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Old 09-19-2002, 09:17 AM   #726
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Hello Herminator,

If the rear is kicking out,soften the rear a little and add alittle of droop in the rear.Not excessive,just try it with a little and you will see the rear end grips well and more stability in the straights. your car may understeer afterwards.Better to have a little understeer than oversteer...(making it twitchy to drive).Hopes that helps.

Hey RCspeedo..
what were you trying to take ?...pic just show an antenna...??
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Old 09-21-2002, 02:09 AM   #727
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yup nice antenna
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Old 09-21-2002, 02:52 AM   #728
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Cool

Another Test...
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Old 09-21-2002, 08:27 AM   #729
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Red? interesting. Did you get it reanodized yourself?

I've been having troubles with bearings not having sheilds on them, the previous owner removed them from both sides on all bearings, meaning some very stuck bearings after a wet and gritty race day a couple weeks ago. I've now got rubber sealed versions for the diffs and will replace others as I can afford it. It was causing awful handling at first, after soaking the bearings and reoiling them, the big bearings are still bad.
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Old 09-21-2002, 11:47 AM   #730
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Herminator
Yup, got it specially anodized. I also have the red anodized rclab shocks but dont have the complete shock spring sets yet . I have been emailing rclabusa and the 2 HS dealers asking about the new shock spring set but have'nt gotten any replies yet , so I used my blue tc3 shocks since I have a complete set of springs for them.
As for your bearings, having the side covers stripped is actually a mod to get rid of a little drag or binding. I have tried them and they work great but needs consistent maintenance to keep them clean. I would'nt advise this though if the bearings are new. It also boils down to the budget you have for getting bearings as the lifespan of the bearings with this mod is short. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-26-2002, 11:32 AM   #731
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The threads getting a little lost.
Any way, I managed my best position yet, 4th in the A final, after starting 7th. There were a couple of drop outs but thats normal, best I've had in the past is finish 5th after starting 6th.
I was using laydown rear shocks and it was pretty good, was stable but if I needed to I could swing the back end out for the tight corners. The front end was a little strange though, it would turn in then under steer then turn in again, almost slowly waving around as I went through the corner. My motor needs servicing though, didn't have the speed of the faster guys, even though my driving was pretty neat.
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Old 09-26-2002, 01:24 PM   #732
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcspeedo
dont have the complete shock spring sets yet . I have been emailing rclabusa and the 2 HS dealers asking about the new shock spring set but have'nt gotten any replies yet
Springs are only available from RCLab UK.
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Old 10-02-2002, 12:20 AM   #733
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darn, that will cost an arm and a leg. oh well, the shocks i have works.

Herminator - we both have the same issue with the car , but I dont laydown my rear. I noticed that there is a bit of understeer coming out of corners but i try to stiffen the rear by moving the upper shock link one hole up from the middle. So far, this works for me and I never drop out of the top five in the class I am running, considering I have only been in the hobby for less than 2 years.
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Old 10-02-2002, 12:29 PM   #734
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Default Center tie rod

Has anyone tried the center tie rod at different lengths?

If so how did it effect the steering?
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Old 10-03-2002, 12:48 AM   #735
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in theory i don't believe it to affect the ackermann response at all. i may be wrong, but with the outside links colinear with the ackermann link on the bellcrank tab, the steering should not be largely affected. what is affected is the hold angle if you will. i thought about running the tabs out like on a losi so that the angle between the link and the line the ball makes with the kingpin is closer to 90 degrees at full lock either way. the problem is that the outer links become so short that the bump steer is induced. not a tradeoff i would compromise. the other way makes me wonder if the belt may come in contact with the left tab. i dunno. i'm going with the same on center as the distance for the mounts. just waiting for some parts so that i can assemble it.

also - you fellas that tried the mod on the front camber link...did you find that it weakened the front end? seems to me that in a crash the tall ballend/kingpin would act like a vertical lever and try to break the whole screw out off the hub. i know the c carriers try to keep the pin alligned, but it's just plastic and can ovalize. any thoughts, or better yet, experiences?

man, i'm getting antsy.
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