WailinOnYa

iTrader: (4)

sonneteer: Not sure how the others have done it, but you might want to try to use the hole straight across from itself on the motors can instead of using the diagonal hole from it. By doig this it will effectively raise the motor about another 1/8" with the screws maxed out in the slots in the motor mount! Forgot to mention, make sure you use the lowest holes on the can, so that it will put the motor as high as possible, if you use the highest holes together it will make the motor further away instead.

_neas_

If I was going to run 64p gears what should I get? I have a 122 and 120 spur already. So what would I want to get? 37,38,39,40?

I run stock with a Peak Spitfire motor. I have a reedy mvp also, and was thinking about picking up something else instead of the ready, my lhs has P2KPro2 and GM3's.

I really want to order the gears but nobody has been able to help (on the RCCA board anyway).

Thanks
s

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Hi Wallinonya,
Great input on the motor mt.Sonneteer make sure use the lowest one..One more thing to add in,make sure capacitors for the motor is not obstructing it too..

Hi Nea,
Finding a good gear ratio is a challenge isn't it.We all can give you an idea of what we run but you may have to try them yourself.Due to the different in track size and different motors.As a guide to my self,I choose a 128 spur in 64 pitch.It's the biggest I can find.This is good in a way to keep my motor low.(LCG).Pinion gears ,does not have to be big, to play with ratio,if you are running stock it depends on the size of the track again.To start know your motor ability/performance.Torque or Rpm motor.Rpm go with a smaller pinion( ratio will work out higher),but if it's torque,go with a bigger pinion.(ratio will be lower).Work with increments of 2 teeth.Small track gear high.Big long track gear high.Technical track go try high coz you need the punch out of the corners..and get to full speed in the straight.Hope this will help you decide which pinions you need or keep.Have fun.

Chrisman

jzone

iTrader: (6)

hey guys,,,

re; the spur/pinion thing,,,,,,,,,,,i'm only running a5.2ttt . which may have a slight difference in clearance, cuz i run opposite hole on the mount and it fits fine 37 is the smallest i can got with the 122 spur.

later

White cat

Check out RCCA board, your answer is there. I run my seven with a final ratio between 5.8 (P2K)-6.5 (MVP).

_neas_

I found this ratio thing on a RC site in the UK, it has a chart and I can find the stock ratio there and move up and down a few to give myself some options. Since I am horribly impatient I ordered some 64p gears from stormer last night. I have 120, 122,..and I will have 124, 35, 35, 37, 38, 39, 40. I bought Robinson Racing and Kimborough so hopefully that will work out alright.

I am going to look at that chart and figure out if I need to call Stormer and amend my order any...

I would say our track is shorter and technical...with one or two good straights (depending on layout).

The Spitfire is more for torque. Thats what I was told anyway...

sonneteer

Actually the 6.0 Evo the motor mount must be different, it is not the mounting oles of the motor, it is actually the motor can hitting the top of the motor mount.... so instead of making the spur smaller, I am making the pinion bigger to get similar ratio, and at the same time lowering the CG of the car by lowering the motor

Cmotif

iTrader: (4)

My day of racing hurt! First race, I was very very fast, until I hit a board when threading a double chicane at full speed. Broke the right body post, right steering block, right hub carrier and bent the drive shaft. Of course I didn't have any spares. That was it, done for the day.

Has anyone had any luck trying to straighten a drive shaft? How did you do it?


I am going to have to order me some parts after I move to Portland in a couple of weeks.

Cmotif <><

RC Lab

Wow, that must be a huge crash! It is very difficult to straighten a bent axle to 100% straight. The best way to solve your problem is to get the new rebuildable universals. You can replace any damaged part instead of buying the whole universal.

Part# is 7S-010-LHR

rcspeedo

Im BAAAAAAACK!!!!!

Took a lot of effort but I was able to fix my comp. I have been checking the forum every now and then though.

Had a bit of relaxing race this saturday. I did'nt get TQ but was able to get 2nd position in the A Main. After the first turn, I was able to get out of the pile and had first place about half of the lap. But, unfortunately, I adjusted the dual rate just before the race and had way too much steering. Almost turning 180 degree at every turn. I also had a bad bump in one of the walls and the body scraped my front wheel making the car out of control. After bumping again, it corrected the body. But by the time everything was in order I was 2 laps behind the leader. I still managed to bag 5th though, and won't affect my overall points. I'll get 'em next time.

hey Jzone - u comming this SAT?
so what's the plan for Feb?

jzone

iTrader: (6)

rcspeedo..tuff luck at the races on sat.

sorry i couldn't make it , ended up workin 14hrs at the hotel that night . didn't get home till 10pm.

i will be tryin to make it out for the race next sat.

later

rcspeedo

Yup, but it's ok , I was'nt as stressed out as I used to be, hehehe. Did make some adjusment on the spring combo as well as tires I'm using. It worked very well, Ill be keeping the current setup and go on to my next project, making the "tank" light like an A1M1.

You also should've seen Myx's race. He had his car dialed into the track and was passing cars in the inside. He was 4th in the A main pole position and was creeping in slowly from behind until his diff gave in. He said he liked the current setup of his car and will be keeping it until next Sat. We had fun though. Hope to see ya this Sat.

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Here's a pic of my Tamiya Opel body on the 7even chassis.

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Here's another look at the 6.0 Pro Ver 2.

MYXTYPLYX

Hey, hey.

I guess the holiday crunch is upon us since we're down a couple of 7even racers last week and I won't make it down for the next. No word yet on track time for the 29th but Dave says it looks promising.

rcspeedo- Thanks. the car felt great! I made some major and minor adjustments and worked out for the better. Too bad we didn't get the 3rd qual. in. I think the car could have placed alot higher. Ohh well.

For everyone's info: Major modification that you might need to do or at least check.

My car, both of Chrisman's and I'm passing it along to the team as a must check. There has been a drivetrain drag that's been plaguing me for a while now.

Make sure the usual bearings are free. Next, install bulkhead with diff and only slightly snug up the bottom screws. Spin the diffs then tighten down the same srews and re- spin the diff. If it's slower, there is drag and must be re-adjusted or in my case redrilled as the bulkheads clamp on the diff. This must be done with the belt off, front and rear must be checked the same way.

Now the top plate should go on and the screws should align without having to alter the bulkhead position or there might be additional drag here as well.(Don't forget the belt but don't engage it to the pulley yet)

If you made it this far without drag then good. But wait! 1 other thing to check before you connect the belt. The shock tower must also go on without you having to work it in to get the screws to line up. If you do, you just tweeked the car and added drag.

If you didn't have to do anything the I envy you because I had to do all 3. After I fixed it the car ran strong the entire lenght of the race.

Your car, motor, batts will run better, faster and save you money on bunt brushes. Sound like a good enough reason to check, right. Hey it might just be the reason you've been kept off the top podium position.

Let me know what you all find.