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Old 10-14-2001, 10:47 PM   #196
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Hey 7even,

there's another thing about stock motors too...I found that the green machine if you running them,they are prone to glitches too...you probably need to replace the cap to eliminate the glitch.Putting a shrink tube as a precaution from glitching is a wise dicision.Done it on mine too.No receiver wire rubbing against the grahite.

Hey Jzone,

Heem....lots of bodies to choose from...The stratus still the best handling body.I like the protoform Vauxhaul....good sleek body and very stable.I ran it on my serpent.Remember??...the yellow machine.

Hey Ae racer,

that's a good call too on the dirt inside the receiver..stuffs do get in there.Cheers..

Chrisman
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Old 10-15-2001, 05:37 AM   #197
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Quote:
Originally posted by chrisman


Hey Ae racer,

that's a good call too on the dirt inside the receiver..stuffs do get in there.Cheers..

Chrisman
yea, my friend had that happen to him last Friday because he had been running his receiver in his offroad truck..
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Old 10-15-2001, 07:33 AM   #198
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Hey 7even ,

If your battery is almost run out off and you have got a PCM radio.
Check your battery fail safe setting.
It should be set to off if you are running electric car.
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Old 10-15-2001, 11:04 AM   #199
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hey fellas,
i thought i had some anodizing literature...and i do, but i can't find it on my drive. it's fairly plentiful online. if i run across it, i'll post. just lettin ya know.
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Old 10-15-2001, 11:21 AM   #200
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Saw some here...

http://www.rcmodels.com/hamrcclub/howto.html
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Old 10-15-2001, 07:44 PM   #201
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Quote:
Originally posted by MonSoon
rclab usa... how much do the delrin arms for the 6.0 sell for ?...

where do u guys usually race at?...i'm planning a road trip to L.A. for my holidays and will be staying in the Lakewood area.. just need directions
The MSRP of delrin lower arm is $16.25 per piece. We usually race at Speedtech RC and Ultimate Hobbies. We also go to Socal sometimes.
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Old 10-16-2001, 02:14 AM   #202
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7even racer- I think Chrisman hit the nail on the head with your problem with the brush hangup solution. I also recommend checking your comm before you replace the brushes. If you see that the edges are pitting then that could also cause your hesitation.
This especially happens under load (wheels on the ground) vs. no load ( wheels off the ground). The pitiing will arc the brushes and several things like noise, and loss of power will occur.
If your comm is pitted then cut the comm or have it cut. You should cut it so that the pitted area is removed completely. If not then it will pitt even more and just get worse.
You should also try stiffer springs to keep brush bounce to a min. which also contribute to pitting and should give you a little more punch.

Good Luck.
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Old 10-16-2001, 01:24 PM   #203
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thanks for all your suggestions i tried new brushes but it didnt work so i am going to have my comm cut for me since i have no clue how, then if not stiffer springs and if not that a new motor
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:02 PM   #204
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Hello Type S,

You got P/M.check it out.

Chrisman.
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:38 PM   #205
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ok, it seems i will have to return by popular demand
next post ill have pics, im brewing them up now....
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:53 PM   #206
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here they are....

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Old 10-16-2001, 08:54 PM   #207
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:56 PM   #208
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Got my Evo 1 today... or whatever they are gonna call it....
Will race it this weekend.. I will post pics of it when done...
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Old 10-16-2001, 09:09 PM   #209
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chizzler- Excellent pics man!Got a couple of questions for ya.

Whats with the crazy wiring? Shaped like a heart.

You running with a break light l.e.d.? If not what the hell is that wiring that comes from your esc to the rear end? Kind of a crazy place to put your esc, explain?

I don't think your body posts are long enough, maybe you can find something longer...lol.

That's the only drawback to displaying your ride, you get it picked apart. ha ha ha.

later
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Old 10-16-2001, 09:28 PM   #210
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i like the wiring, its a "flowing 'S' " from the way i imagine it.
i didnt want to put the esc on the lower deck because its a novak TC2. the capacitor is obviously huge and annoying, and theres not that much room there on the lab. in the current position the wiring goes from the esc to the capacitor, and ive got the capacitor mounted against the rear shock tower, away from getting hit or disturbed by anything!!
very creative, huh!

and yes, this is by far the oddest positioning ive ever used on a car, but all my wiring is smooth and out of the way in this layout, and it works!

oh and the body posts are the standard ones, lol, i dont have my body painted yet, so i cant trim them....
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