LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

what is the rule on lipos and can i run the new short 2s lipo in this class???

Rojna

I found some HERE and HERE

MD

iTrader: (136)

Tower has the fronts.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...tage&search=Go

RC Shack has both.
http://www.thercshack.com/hpi4793vin...-compound.aspx
http://www.thercshack.com/hpi4793vin...ompound-1.aspx

Hobby People has the fronts.

http://hobbypeople.net/hpi-vintage-r...-compound.html

There are other web sites that show them, but they don't tell if they are in stock and there is also Ebay.

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

I race sportsman spec truck on carpet (1s, 17.5 no timing, spec tires) and I see a similar problem. We have a 5000 MAH limit in that class too, but the battery vendors continue to creep the 1c sizes larger and larger. I know the folks at Thunder Power wanted to discontinue the 5000 size once they introduced the 5600 because sales of the smaller capacities dropped to almost zero (the only people buying them are running the spec class, and we don't buy very many).

While it's not a problem now in 2c, I suspect it will be at some time in the future. I would politely suggest that when it does, the capacity limit be lowered so it forced racers to run batteries in the sub 4000 range.

Then again, I may be imagining things that don't/never will exist because vendors must sell an exponentially larger number of 2s batteries compared to 1c.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Wouldn't a lower capacity force people to add weight to make the minimum? Do you want to tell a noob he not only has to buy a specific battery, but also has to add weight to it?

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

Well...

First, I had to add almost 100 grams to my car to make legal weight, and I have an antique sedan with all steel screws, so I don't see that being any different.

Second, we already are telling noob's they have to run a specific battery. If somebody buys the wrong battery (anything bigger than a 5000) from the hobby shop, what's the difference?

I suggested that the powers that be think about decreasing the battery capacity if they choose to change it. If the object is to run older, but no longer state of the art, carpet gear then the capacity needs to go up at some point, but it doesn't have to increase to keep it in the spirt of the rules.

I'm going to run the class either way.

slashdriver

iTrader: (84)

my two cents.

decreasing the battery capacity will make it that much harder to find batteries to run VTA. it won't be too long before nobody is making sub-5000mah stuff as there just won't be a market for it.

so, my suggestion would be to open the rules to any 2S lipo. we've already established there is no advantage to running a higher-C, higher-mAh lipo; and they are going to be easier and easier to get...so why set the barrier for entry higher than it needs to be?

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

My thoughts exactly. It doesnt make sense to limit anything but voltage on the batteries.

LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

i got an hpi sprint 2 sport with all the graphite chassis and towers, ball diff. i need the right cvds for the front an the rear, the rear is different than the front. i need the correct front cvds for my car, thats all i need for the chassis. i will be run a novak system. and a shorty 2s lipo unless u guys know of a very thin 2s lipo to run cause of the belt clearance.


please help!!!!!!!!

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

I think that's a reasonable position too.

LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

help me!!!!!

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

To my knowledge the Sprint 2 was made for saddle packs. You can get those in 2s Lipo just about anywhere.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

If you're hoping for someone to sell you parts (cvd's, etc) your best bet is to post in the "wanted to buy" section.

I was not aware that the cvd's are different front-rear, but that's certainly not unheard of with HPI. The MT2 has marginally different cvd's front and rear.

As far as battery, the Sprint "vintage" Camaro I set up as a demo for our hobby shop it takes a standard 2-cell pack (I've been using an old Orion Carbon 3200) and I've not noticed the belts interfering. The belts DO seem to rub on the motor, but it's more a graze than "rub" and after two race days doesn't seem to be having any effect.

The motor installs in these cars without modifying the aluminum plates (as someone previously mentioned) but it goes in exactly ONE way. If you look at the uprights that support the top plate that are immediately ahead of the motor you'll see that the one on the motor side has a mounting boss that nothing screws into. This same boss on the other side carries the lower front of the motor mounting plate. Pull that upright out and cut that boss off flush with the posts.

Then bend the taps from the motor straight back bending down as close to the endbell side as possible AND making damn sure you make the bends parallel to keep the tabs from touching. Feed the motor in and mount it with the now bent tabs pointing straight forward, solder it up and install the sensor harness.

I installed a 100t spur and 53t pinion (64pitch) to give right at 4.0 FDR and threw a basic touring car alignment on it. The car has run with the factory radio, servo, etc. Handling is EXCELLENT, top speed is a little light but PLENTY fast enough for the rookies that have been driving it. If I was going to race it myself I'd go larger on the pinion a couple steps and see where I got.

LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

i was tring to see if anyone has ran in to the cvd problem befor.

redron123

iTrader: (87)

Anyone else run a xray t3 10 or 11 for vta car? I am ordering new wheels,rubber and i see that hpi has different offsets. I wanted to know which offsets to order and still stay legal? I also wanted know if it would help the car at all or should i stick with the 0 offsets?