1LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing
04-30-2011, 05:21 PM
I have a 69 camaro body what is the answer to get the tires to clear the openings, do you cut them out like the 68 or what?
04-30-2011, 05:32 PM
. see you sunday
idbdoug
04-30-2011, 07:58 PM
On the Pro 4 motor mount you may have to dremel an opening at the end (tire side) of the slot for the bottom screw. That may allow you to swing the motor over far enough. Also try going to the smallest spur you can find, that might free up some room.
Thanks. I remember you telling me about this when I talked to you at the track. I'm just not sure in the motor mount on the Pro4 will allow enough adjustment that's why I'm hoping somebody that's still running this car will post some information. I'm leaning towards the TC3 or T2 '07 xray models.
see you sunday
idbdoug
see you sunday
idbdoug
05-01-2011, 12:35 AM
Not quite sure what you are asking. All of the bodies must be cut on the factory trim lines. You should not have any issues with tire clearance if the body is mounted properly. I haven't heard of any issues with the '69 yet, but if it is anything like the '68, you shouldn't have any clearance problems at all.
05-01-2011, 01:32 AM
Fellow vta..im running a hpi sprint 2....do any one have a set-up for a out door track??? Oils,toe/camber/droop/roll center/ ride height????? Thanks
05-01-2011, 07:18 AM
Not quite sure what you are asking. All of the bodies must be cut on the factory trim lines. You should not have any issues with tire clearance if the body is mounted properly. I haven't heard of any issues with the '69 yet, but if it is anything like the '68, you shouldn't have any clearance problems at all.
05-01-2011, 07:29 AM
The HPI '69 Camaro has squared off front wheel well openings (very similar to the HPI 'Cuda). I have run the Cuda in the past and have gotten some tire rub on the front wheel wells. However, I've gotten some amount of wheel rub in the front of all my VTA bodies. I think this is primarily due to the VTA tire ballooning up when the tire loses contact with the ground (during a crash).
The best solution to prevent wheel rub is to narrow the track or width of the car. This can easily be done by using thinner hex adapters. Losi does sell thinner aluminum hex adapters (http://www.losi.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=tc3 hex). I have used thinner hexes in the past when I've run an HPI '66 Mustang in the rear, since the notchback bodies are only 200mm in the rear.
I should add that when you change the width at either end of the car that it will affect the grip level at that end. I did find that if I ran the car narrower in the rear that it took some grip away and did help the car rotate a bit better.
Hope this info helps.
The best solution to prevent wheel rub is to narrow the track or width of the car. This can easily be done by using thinner hex adapters. Losi does sell thinner aluminum hex adapters (http://www.losi.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=tc3 hex). I have used thinner hexes in the past when I've run an HPI '66 Mustang in the rear, since the notchback bodies are only 200mm in the rear.
I should add that when you change the width at either end of the car that it will affect the grip level at that end. I did find that if I ran the car narrower in the rear that it took some grip away and did help the car rotate a bit better.
Hope this info helps.
Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 05-01-2011 at 10:40 PM.
05-01-2011, 07:48 AM
I think the hex adaptors for the 1/16 Slash are narrow.
05-01-2011, 04:54 PM
Because YOU did (at least) two things right...
1) Body is mounted SQUARELY on the chassis. Doesn't take much error to start causing "challenges".
2) Body hasn't been "slammed" over the chassis, which causes a larger radii of the front tire to engage with the fender lip at full-lock. THAT'S when the rub starts.
If the body is mounted squarely the solution to rubbing in the front with the "squared down" wheel arches (HPI Cuda and now, apparently, '69 Camaro) is to raise the body up a notch or two. Where it probably should have been anyway since the "Golden Era" TA cars of '67-'72 weren't that particularly low anyway. Many of them are run a lot lower now in vintage competition than they ever ran in the day, much of that having to do with modern race tires and the geometries necessary to make effective use of them.
1) Body is mounted SQUARELY on the chassis. Doesn't take much error to start causing "challenges".
2) Body hasn't been "slammed" over the chassis, which causes a larger radii of the front tire to engage with the fender lip at full-lock. THAT'S when the rub starts.
If the body is mounted squarely the solution to rubbing in the front with the "squared down" wheel arches (HPI Cuda and now, apparently, '69 Camaro) is to raise the body up a notch or two. Where it probably should have been anyway since the "Golden Era" TA cars of '67-'72 weren't that particularly low anyway. Many of them are run a lot lower now in vintage competition than they ever ran in the day, much of that having to do with modern race tires and the geometries necessary to make effective use of them.
05-01-2011, 05:11 PM
FDR question
I have a Corally Phi with the stock pullies 42/21, with a 96 spur. To get a 4.0 FDR, I calculate a 47t pinion for a 4.085 actually.
Question A, why 4.o FDR? ---Answered, found it on page 1 million in VTA thread
Question B, how much or how many have had to deviate from this number?---See above, same
Be easy, just a noob trying to get set up for VTA for my first time.
Another question, How good are the factory shocks on the Phi? I need to purchase some replacement parts and wondered if they were worth fixing or should I just opt for the Tamiya 42102's?
Final question, has anyone used the mustang coupe body yet and if so, will the rear tires fit with narrow spacers?
(Easier to edit than wasting more space)
Question A, why 4.o FDR? ---Answered, found it on page 1 million in VTA thread
Question B, how much or how many have had to deviate from this number?---See above, same
Be easy, just a noob trying to get set up for VTA for my first time.
Another question, How good are the factory shocks on the Phi? I need to purchase some replacement parts and wondered if they were worth fixing or should I just opt for the Tamiya 42102's?
Final question, has anyone used the mustang coupe body yet and if so, will the rear tires fit with narrow spacers?
(Easier to edit than wasting more space)
Last edited by Mad Hatter; 05-01-2011 at 06:12 PM.
05-01-2011, 07:09 PM
First VTA race
We ran our first VTA race today, 6 cars, with several more in process of geting built. LOts of fun, lots of people asking questions. They like the bodies, they like the speeds, and they liked hearing the rules. It just might explode here in Big D.
05-01-2011, 09:08 PM
I know I had a blast!! I can't wait to see everyone Saturday. 
05-01-2011, 10:24 PM
Hey guys just ran my first vta race....great time...i have a hpi sprint 2...car was good but i had a problem wit the rear being loose off throttle...do anyone have a basic setup for the car??? diff oils and shocks an springs help is a must...thanks...
