U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing
#6602
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Hey guys. I finally got to run my VTA car and I can say i had a blast!
it took a bit to get it to work right, I basically had NO rear traction initially, but some a VTA regular showed me the techniques to get the tires ready. Anyway, the main issue I wanted to run by you guys to find what I should due setwise is this:
ok, so around the track, I worked on the car to get the rear planted. not being a setup guy, I used info from a website that had common setup advice as to changing certain items, etc. would do to the handling of the car. I got the car to almost do exactly what I want. It had A LOT of steering, I just need the rear to stick alittle more.
if I turn hard enough, I can break the rear tires free and drift it around a turn, other guys there cars stay stuck basically to the track. The problem arises on a long sweeper that at times if I let off the throttle a bit the rear end could come around. Also, it kind of "chatters" when the rear is about to break free. I even managed to traction roll once so it has grip I am thinking, just that one rear area issue.
So, basically need to know, in general, what should I change if I want the rear to stick more on the car?
My car is different than others, so I can't just post and say give me a setup for a TC3, etc., but here is some general info i can post that I settled on:
starting setup:
- Pistons 1.1 front and rear
- 35W oil front
- 30W oil rear
- Heavy springs (front heaviest spring I have)
- medium springs
- 8mm front and rear ride height, no droop set
- rear link fully angled and 1 short of full length
- 5 degees of caster in castor blocks
- 2 degree rear toe in
this setup was pretty much what it came with from a guy who had the car before running touring car foam.
I then went to:
- 40Wt Front Losi oil
- 25Wt rear Losi oil
- softer rear springs (not sure ratings exactly, have 1 spring softer available I think)
- 5mm front and rear ride height and droop set at that level
- Move rear upper shock position inward (no more holes available, basically over 2 holes)
- Moved front upper shock location outward 1 hole (2 more holes available)
- 7 degrees of caster in caster blocks
- 3 degree toe in
So, in general, what do you guys recommend that I do next?
specifics:
- Academy STR4 Pro II shaft drive with graphite shock towers
- Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro ESC with DRRS Full and Timing max
- Tekin 21.5 motor with cool fan heatsink(open motors at track)
- RFI 4000mah 25C 7.4V lipo
- Parma Boss 302 Mustang Body ( I really like the looks of this!)
- Weight about 1500+ grams
- no oneways used, (have torque limiting differential oneway and center shaft oneway)
One other thing, on the car I have, the body I painted kind of has a police car look to it unintentially, so, I am wondering does anyone have any pics and / or info on how to do a full police car setup with working lights and possibly even a siren sound?
it took a bit to get it to work right, I basically had NO rear traction initially, but some a VTA regular showed me the techniques to get the tires ready. Anyway, the main issue I wanted to run by you guys to find what I should due setwise is this:
ok, so around the track, I worked on the car to get the rear planted. not being a setup guy, I used info from a website that had common setup advice as to changing certain items, etc. would do to the handling of the car. I got the car to almost do exactly what I want. It had A LOT of steering, I just need the rear to stick alittle more.
if I turn hard enough, I can break the rear tires free and drift it around a turn, other guys there cars stay stuck basically to the track. The problem arises on a long sweeper that at times if I let off the throttle a bit the rear end could come around. Also, it kind of "chatters" when the rear is about to break free. I even managed to traction roll once so it has grip I am thinking, just that one rear area issue.
So, basically need to know, in general, what should I change if I want the rear to stick more on the car?
My car is different than others, so I can't just post and say give me a setup for a TC3, etc., but here is some general info i can post that I settled on:
starting setup:
- Pistons 1.1 front and rear
- 35W oil front
- 30W oil rear
- Heavy springs (front heaviest spring I have)
- medium springs
- 8mm front and rear ride height, no droop set
- rear link fully angled and 1 short of full length
- 5 degees of caster in castor blocks
- 2 degree rear toe in
this setup was pretty much what it came with from a guy who had the car before running touring car foam.
I then went to:
- 40Wt Front Losi oil
- 25Wt rear Losi oil
- softer rear springs (not sure ratings exactly, have 1 spring softer available I think)
- 5mm front and rear ride height and droop set at that level
- Move rear upper shock position inward (no more holes available, basically over 2 holes)
- Moved front upper shock location outward 1 hole (2 more holes available)
- 7 degrees of caster in caster blocks
- 3 degree toe in
So, in general, what do you guys recommend that I do next?
specifics:
- Academy STR4 Pro II shaft drive with graphite shock towers
- Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro ESC with DRRS Full and Timing max
- Tekin 21.5 motor with cool fan heatsink(open motors at track)
- RFI 4000mah 25C 7.4V lipo
- Parma Boss 302 Mustang Body ( I really like the looks of this!)
- Weight about 1500+ grams
- no oneways used, (have torque limiting differential oneway and center shaft oneway)
One other thing, on the car I have, the body I painted kind of has a police car look to it unintentially, so, I am wondering does anyone have any pics and / or info on how to do a full police car setup with working lights and possibly even a siren sound?
Last edited by Cain; 11-09-2009 at 07:21 AM.
#6604
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
One other thing, on the car I have, the body I painted kind of has a police car look to it unintentially, so, I am wondering does anyone have any pics and / or info on how to do a full police car setup with working lights and possibly even a siren sound?
#6606
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Is this the item you used:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDZ75&P=7
From what I can tell if this is the item, it looks like you can use a 6 cell pack to power it. I wonder if I could rig it up to the power wires from the battery pack, though, not sure how much it will draw on the pack. Thoughts?
Now just to find some "Police" stickers
#6607
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Hey guys. I finally got to run my VTA car and I can say i had a blast!
it took a bit to get it to work right, I basically had NO rear traction initially, but some a VTA regular showed me the techniques to get the tires ready. Anyway, the main issue I wanted to run by you guys to find what I should due setwise is this:
ok, so around the track, I worked on the car to get the rear planted. not being a setup guy, I used info from a website that had common setup advice as to changing certain items, etc. would do to the handling of the car. I got the car to almost do exactly what I want. It had A LOT of steering, I just need the rear to stick alittle more.
if I turn hard enough, I can break the rear tires free and drift it around a turn, other guys there cars stay stuck basically to the track. The problem arises on a long sweeper that at times if I let off the throttle a bit the rear end could come around. Also, it kind of "chatters" when the rear is about to break free. I even managed to traction roll once so it has grip I am thinking, just that one rear area issue.
So, basically need to know, in general, what should I change if I want the rear to stick more on the car?
it took a bit to get it to work right, I basically had NO rear traction initially, but some a VTA regular showed me the techniques to get the tires ready. Anyway, the main issue I wanted to run by you guys to find what I should due setwise is this:
ok, so around the track, I worked on the car to get the rear planted. not being a setup guy, I used info from a website that had common setup advice as to changing certain items, etc. would do to the handling of the car. I got the car to almost do exactly what I want. It had A LOT of steering, I just need the rear to stick alittle more.
if I turn hard enough, I can break the rear tires free and drift it around a turn, other guys there cars stay stuck basically to the track. The problem arises on a long sweeper that at times if I let off the throttle a bit the rear end could come around. Also, it kind of "chatters" when the rear is about to break free. I even managed to traction roll once so it has grip I am thinking, just that one rear area issue.
So, basically need to know, in general, what should I change if I want the rear to stick more on the car?
#6609
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
Thats the unit.There's no wiring on the chassis,I stuck everything to the roof of the body with servo tape.I cut off the 9volt plug that it came with and installed a plug off an old servo and I plug it directly into the aux position on my receiver,battery draw is minimal.