Originally Posted by svt-racer

At our local track, we banned the Tekin RS from the VTA class for obvious reasons. Everybody stayed away from it in the spirit of the class. Sooner or later, somebody will show up with one, and we will have to deal with it somehow. Just don't know how yet.

Originally Posted by svt-racer

Everybody stayed away from it in the spirit of the class. Sooner or later, somebody will show up with one, and we will have to deal with it somehow.

Originally Posted by robk

Had a pretty good day of testing today. We went in a different direction than I have been talking about.

*After thinking about it, my theme lately has been "turn that s*** down!!" By that i mean reduce the boost, timing advance, etc. This worked remarkably well. After playing around, it looks like an SPX on profile 1 runs about the same as 10* advance on the other controllers. We put 10* on a SpeedPassion 1.1 and a Tekin RS, and the speeds down the straight were almost identical. No turbo boost was used, only 10* of advance. The motors were maxed out on physical timing. The cars were very, very close on speed on all parts of the track.

I want to try this with KO, Novak, other lrps, but I think this may wind up being a very good solution. I recommend you give this a try to see if it works for you.

*We tried several different FDRs. The strangest part about this was that the cars actually stayed at the same lap time or got faster. It actually turned out that it helped with the timing situation, as it illustrated that the LRP had some timing even on the #1 setting. The LRP gained an advantage as we went numerically higher on the FDR when the SP was set to 0* timing.

The other thing was that while the cars were slower on the straight, they picked up a lot of time in the infield as we went up on gear. I think that's why the difference in ESCs becomes obvious as you go to larger tracks, especially asphalt. The advantage is pronounced there.

The FDR may change, if it will slow things down without having to chage batteries or motors.

Originally Posted by JKRacing37

Actually someone did have one in VTA this season. I don't think they had the boost on but it was there. I saw it at the last points race.

I would like to know what the "fix" is going to be sooner rather than later. I bought what I needed to compete in VTA (2s lipos, 21.5 novak, etc.) within the rules, and less than 6 months later there is talk of changing the battery and/or powertrain combos. It doesn't make sense to me (personally) to have to re-invest in 1s lipos and/or a new motor. If the rules force me to change my complete set up that I just bought then I'll jump up to 17.5 where I know whatever I buy is going to be good for more than one summer series.

Originally Posted by robk

I hope this is good enough for you.

Originally Posted by JKRacing37

Well, I don't think it matters what is "good enough" for me, I just wanted to know the rules changes as soon as possible so I can decide to race either VTA or 17.5 for the winter season. I saw a lot of discussion of different motors and differnet batteries (17.5 and one cell lipo comes to mind) and my line of thought was if I had to buy a 17.5 motor anyway, I'll cut my losses and stick with the batteries I have and race 17.5.

FWIW - IMO - if it's just going to be a gearing change that is great.

Originally Posted by liljohn1064

I'm all for profile matching and detuning ESCs so no one has to buy new gear. You tell me where to set that SP 1.1 and I'll get it done. It'll be interesting detuning to the level of a Havoc, but in the name of fairness I will.

My car STUNK last night. I guess I should work on the setup. Slipping front diff is very bad.

Originally Posted by Kevin K

John....set the timing to #3 on the setting box....thats what me and rob found is comparable to LRP SPX #1 and Tekin at 10deg with no boost.....with 5.5 FDR

Originally Posted by clunker

Hi all. I have a couple noob questions for all you VTA gurus.

1) How do you read the timing marks on a Novak Ballistic motor? As in what do the individual incremental marks mean degree wise?

2) Should I adjust the timing on my motor? Will advancing it give me any more speed? I've heard differing opinions and want to know what fellow VTA guys think.

Originally Posted by liljohn1064

I'm all over it. What about the motor timing? Leave it?

Originally Posted by robk

In the most recent testing, we just cranked motor timing as we assumed everyone would do this anyway. Also, it is available to everyone.

Reduced motor timing seems to work better when boost and/or a lot of speedo timing comes into play. At 10* on the speedo, max was just fine.

Originally Posted by robk

In the most recent testing, we just cranked motor timing as we assumed everyone would do this anyway. Also, it is available to everyone.

Reduced motor timing seems to work better when boost and/or a lot of speedo timing comes into play. At 10* on the speedo, max was just fine.