monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

I'm going to apologize now for asking a question that probably been asked a bunch of times before. I did read through a bunch of this thread, but I'm still a little lost.

See, I know pretty much nothing about touring cars, except for the fact that I generally don't like them. This is due to the current crop of tech obsessed, bottomless wallet types I see at the track.

What I would like to know is "What is a decent touring car chassis, made between 5-10 years ago that a schmoe like me could pick up for a decent price?"

I absolutely LOVE the idea of this class, and wouldn't mind putting together a car to see if I can convince others to get in on the action.

Let me know what you can. Thanks,
Jim

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

The beauty of VTA is that you CAN be competitive with an older chassis design. Excellent condition TC3's can be had for a song and parts are cheap and plentiful. Hell, a good parts supply often comes with the car. I would suggest springing for the FT version or at least a RTR or Team that has been upgraded with the threaded shocks. In fact someone has 2 TC3's listed in the FS section now that come with VTA bodies, tires and wheels already installed. I think $140 is likely still too much for what's there, but anything under $120 is probably an ok deal.

Scottrik

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

I think I have met that guy.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

I would rate myself as a solid B-main driver whenever I've been to a big race. I do an okay job with setup, but make too many mental mistakes on the track. Having said that I'm currently racing a TC3 tub chassis in VTA. Once I dialed in a decent setup I have a car that I can drive aggressively that gives me a chance to win at local club racing. The TC3 has enough adjustments that I can keep up with changing track conditions, but not too many that I have totally dialed myself out of the ballpark.

I would recommend the TC3 as a cost effective car for this class. There are a few things that you can do to make the car more bullet proof, but they are not needed. I would recommend a wider front bumper like this RPM bumper (http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...ires/80292.htm). I have been running plastic diffs, but would recommend the old steel TC3 diffs for durability. Another upgrade I would recommend is aluminum steering blocks which helps you from stripping out screws on the plastic/carbon blocks...here is an example made by Calandra Racing (CRC) - (http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=3021). Another thing you could add for durability is rear nerf wings like the ones made by BRP. Here is a link on Tower Hobbies to the BRP TC3 products (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SEARCH=brp+tc3).

You can find a lot of used TC3's on ebay. I did a quick search and found a few good deals on complete cars including radios.

In the end racing r/c cars comes down to how much money you want to spend. But for VTA I keep finding myself asking why do I need a new car when I'm having so much fun with what I own. Plus I've been able to save the money for new bodies.

padailey

iTrader: (11)

Dont' forget the XXX-S... or some of the newer cars..... Hot Bodies Cyclone S and Tamiya TA05 as an example.

Railroader

iTrader: (6)

This should probably go in the FS/FT forum, but since it's relevant here:

I have a XXX-s that I am willing to sell without any electronics for $120 ($135 shipped). It has the upgraded belts system, a few spur gears, some aluminum upgrades, and a bag of a lot of spare parts. I'll even include the a set of HPI vintage tire that aren't too worn out. I upgraded the shocks to TC3 units.

With a radio/receiver and servo - ($150 - $170 shipped)

Or make me an offer. Willing to accept trades for Spektrum receivers or personal transponders.

TwoTone

iTrader: (12)

I bought 2 used TA 05s for my son and I.

Another good choice is a Cyclone S, the kit new without body is $118 at I think Ultimate hobbies.

I was almost tempted by a NIB TA05R on ebay for 250

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Then you should be tempted by a NIB TA05IFS-R for $240:

TA05IFS-R at speedtech

TwoTone

iTrader: (12)

I said almost. I didn't do too bad, my TA is a R I got for $78 and my son's I bough off here and it has many of the R's carbon parts.

One thing I can't get answered about the R. When I go to Tamiya and look up a lower arm, it gives me a EVO IV part.

Now I know the R came with the lighter suspension kit, but the EVO doesn't mention that. So are they actually the same part?

Also, the carbon parts have a dull look, the EVO arms have the shiny plastic look to them.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

How about an FK-05? I've got a pending deal on one. If that falls through, I've had a TC4 offered to me.

I think I've got another guy in my club interested. If we work it right, we can get a class going...

Jim

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

The evo is a high end kit and was never offered with the older ta-04/414 style suspension, it only had the LW susp. stuff. Yes they should be the same part. tamiya likes to share a lot of stuff between chassis (makes finding parts easier)

hope that helps

monkey- FK05 is a great car, its a tank, and its an xray. cant beat that. one guy in our club runs one and its fast when I drive it

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Good racing tonight at Indy Slots. The best driver in the class decided to prove that you don't need the best equipment to have fun in this class. He set TQ and would have won if not for a thermal shutdown with his Novak SS and he was using a Tamiya TT-01R. The only mod he did to the car was to use a F201 spur gear and an HPI pinion so that he could make a usable FDR for 21.5/lipo. Thanks to his efforts we probably have 2 more racers hooked.

The best part is that he will happily help the local racers mod the F201 gear so that they will be able to run a competitive speed.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

...now I need to learn about gear ratios. I've never worried much about 'em running M chassis and my rock crawler. The mini is more or less fixed, and the crawler just like the shortest gear possible. I think it's running about 85:1 right now.

Jim

DJ919

Wow, this is the greatest thing about Vintage TA...My first organized V-TA run will be on Sunday with the SJCCR crew in Jersey. I've been speaking with a few experienced V-TA racers over the past week. Now, from what I'm hearing and reading, it seems like the most successful go-power set up is the 21.5/lipo option. This sunday I will be running with a 27T/4 Cells @ 4600 / FDR @ 5.4 ...Any-one running this same go-power set up and having success with it over the Brushless & Brushless/lipo options?

losi nut

iTrader: (1)

I ran the 27t/4cell package in my t2r for about 4 months on our parking lot track (100x70) geared at 5.55fdr. it was actually faster in the straights than the 21.5 car, but a little lacking in the infield section. Not real bad, but I found if you used as much throttle as you could stand in the corners you didn't lose that much time. Definitely made you drive it smooth.