1LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing
07-28-2008, 10:24 AM
#1876
Yes Simple Green will soften the rubber and make them tacky.
For an indoor offroad on a hardpacked red clay track many used belt dressing (for full sized car fan belts Etc). Cheap spray cans available at WalMart. Don't know how it would work on the HPI Vintage tires on ashphalt though.
I tried a couple of regular commercial RC traction compounds on my VTA car... couldn't wait for the stuff to wear off
For an indoor offroad on a hardpacked red clay track many used belt dressing (for full sized car fan belts Etc). Cheap spray cans available at WalMart. Don't know how it would work on the HPI Vintage tires on ashphalt though.
I tried a couple of regular commercial RC traction compounds on my VTA car... couldn't wait for the stuff to wear off
07-28-2008, 10:38 AM
#1877
Well we ran our first T/A race yesterday and it was a blast! There were just four of us, but based on the overwhelmingly positive feedback we received from everyone there we'll have a full field in no time at all. More than a few guys spent their Sunday night rummaging through their stuff for that old TC3 or whatever.
We ran some different motor setups. The consensus is that our track is just too big for the standard T/A motor/battery rules to be fun. After much debate, our formula is going to be to run 6-cell with hand-out silver can Johnson motors randomly drawn each race. I ran that way yesterday and geared properly it was plenty fast enough to be fun but not nearly fast enough to make the racing ugly. It is the right combo for our particular track.
Several people also expressed interest in running other vintage bodies than those listed, such as a Chevy Bel-Air, some vintage foreign racers, etc. We're going to allow anything pre-'72 or so, and the period-correct paint rules still apply.
Same HPI wheels and tires as Vintage T/A.
It'll be more like watching the Monterey Historics instead of a vintage T/A race. Different eras mixed together, but all nice examples of their era and their type.
We're calling it "Vintage Spec".
So, that's our variation on the theme. It's what works best for our track and our racers. All the credit goes to Vintage T/A for inspiring us and getting the ball rolling!
Here's my Shelby. I took inspiration from the Shelby/Terlingua Racing Team '67 Mustang notchback T/A cars, and changed the yellow to my favorite "Camel Yellow" I run on my other cars.
We ran some different motor setups. The consensus is that our track is just too big for the standard T/A motor/battery rules to be fun. After much debate, our formula is going to be to run 6-cell with hand-out silver can Johnson motors randomly drawn each race. I ran that way yesterday and geared properly it was plenty fast enough to be fun but not nearly fast enough to make the racing ugly. It is the right combo for our particular track.
Several people also expressed interest in running other vintage bodies than those listed, such as a Chevy Bel-Air, some vintage foreign racers, etc. We're going to allow anything pre-'72 or so, and the period-correct paint rules still apply.
Same HPI wheels and tires as Vintage T/A.
It'll be more like watching the Monterey Historics instead of a vintage T/A race. Different eras mixed together, but all nice examples of their era and their type.
We're calling it "Vintage Spec".
So, that's our variation on the theme. It's what works best for our track and our racers. All the credit goes to Vintage T/A for inspiring us and getting the ball rolling!
Here's my Shelby. I took inspiration from the Shelby/Terlingua Racing Team '67 Mustang notchback T/A cars, and changed the yellow to my favorite "Camel Yellow" I run on my other cars.
07-28-2008, 11:44 AM
#1878
If you are going to be running a Losi XXX-S car with 21.5/lipo or 4-cell/17.5, make sure that can put enough gear on it. From talking to a few racers, some extra effort may need to go into getting a big enough pinion for brushless motors especially with 48 pitch gears. I don't believe that 4-cell stock with a XXX-S should be a problem.
This also applies to a TC-3 as well. Without modifying the motor mount area on the chassis or motor cam, you will have to run a smaller than 88 spur to be able to reach max FDR for the 21.5/lipo option. PRS (http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/catalog) makes a 76, 80, and 84 spur if you are looking for something smaller than 88. Robinson Racing (http://www.robinsonracing.com/index.html) makes 78, 81, and 85 also.
This also applies to a TC-3 as well. Without modifying the motor mount area on the chassis or motor cam, you will have to run a smaller than 88 spur to be able to reach max FDR for the 21.5/lipo option. PRS (http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/catalog) makes a 76, 80, and 84 spur if you are looking for something smaller than 88. Robinson Racing (http://www.robinsonracing.com/index.html) makes 78, 81, and 85 also.
07-28-2008, 12:16 PM
#1879
If you are going to be running a Losi XXX-S car with 21.5/lipo or 4-cell/17.5, make sure that can put enough gear on it. From talking to a few racers, some extra effort may need to go into getting a big enough pinion for brushless motors especially with 48 pitch gears. I don't believe that 4-cell stock with a XXX-S should be a problem.
This also applies to a TC-3 as well. Without modifying the motor mount area on the chassis or motor cam, you will have to run a smaller than 88 spur to be able to reach max FDR for the 21.5/lipo option. PRS (http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/catalog) makes a 76, 80, and 84 spur if you are looking for something smaller than 88. Robinson Racing (http://www.robinsonracing.com/index.html) makes 78, 81, and 85 also.
This also applies to a TC-3 as well. Without modifying the motor mount area on the chassis or motor cam, you will have to run a smaller than 88 spur to be able to reach max FDR for the 21.5/lipo option. PRS (http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/catalog) makes a 76, 80, and 84 spur if you are looking for something smaller than 88. Robinson Racing (http://www.robinsonracing.com/index.html) makes 78, 81, and 85 also.
Same thing is true for an Xray T2 008. It came with a 84tooth 48 pitch spur that would require a 34 tooth pinion- well that won't fit.
I've ordered a 101 64 spur and hope that is small enough to fit the 40 pinion on.
07-28-2008, 12:21 PM
#1880
If you are going to be running a Losi XXX-S car with 21.5/lipo or 4-cell/17.5, make sure that can put enough gear on it. From talking to a few racers, some extra effort may need to go into getting a big enough pinion for brushless motors especially with 48 pitch gears. I don't believe that 4-cell stock with a XXX-S should be a problem.
This also applies to a TC-3 as well. Without modifying the motor mount area on the chassis or motor cam, you will have to run a smaller than 88 spur to be able to reach max FDR for the 21.5/lipo option. PRS (http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/catalog) makes a 76, 80, and 84 spur if you are looking for something smaller than 88. Robinson Racing (http://www.robinsonracing.com/index.html) makes 78, 81, and 85 also.
This also applies to a TC-3 as well. Without modifying the motor mount area on the chassis or motor cam, you will have to run a smaller than 88 spur to be able to reach max FDR for the 21.5/lipo option. PRS (http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/catalog) makes a 76, 80, and 84 spur if you are looking for something smaller than 88. Robinson Racing (http://www.robinsonracing.com/index.html) makes 78, 81, and 85 also.
07-28-2008, 02:51 PM
#1882
At our Sunday races I've seen rookie drivers who have built a TA car use 6 cell stick packs in their TA cars because our rookie rules are race what you brung. It's absolutely the wrong thing for them. Way too fast for a newbie driver. When the same driver installs a 4 cell pack instead of a six they'll get 4-6 more laps for a 5 minute race because they aren't marshalled as much.
If you run a race program and want more rookie and new drivers you should build sets of four cell packs and have them available to hand out to your new racers. Everyone and their brother have 6 cell packs of GP3300's laying around. Knock a couple of the cells off, cycle them a few times and leave them on a table at your track for the new guys to keep and use.
If you run a race program and want more rookie and new drivers you should build sets of four cell packs and have them available to hand out to your new racers. Everyone and their brother have 6 cell packs of GP3300's laying around. Knock a couple of the cells off, cycle them a few times and leave them on a table at your track for the new guys to keep and use.
yeah thats great IF someone is willing to give that stuff up. Most the time tho when you come in new you dont know anyone really and sure as hell arent gonna ask someone to use their stuff if you dont know them...and have any manners. I obviously conformed and bought 4 cell packs but joe blow with no RC experience is going to have a much harder time if he doesnt have an A+ hobby shop. Which in turn could detour him away form actually going through with joining the class and quite possibly rc all together. Just my opinion and observation is all. Not everyone is old 12th scale racers with 4 cell packs laying around.
07-28-2008, 03:18 PM
#1884
Monkey, I dunno how it is in offroad... but I started racing onroad last year and had NO idea what I was getting myself into. But all the local guys stepped up and helped me out even though I had no idea who they were. Some gave me batteries, others lent me motors, pinions, spurs, receivers when mine blew... the list goes on... The only thing they asked for in return was that I had a good time. And I would like to think that at most clubs, this is the general consensus. So I guess what I'm saying is... If you need help, let someone know.
07-28-2008, 03:22 PM
#1885
Probably a dumb question but what does simple green do to the tires, other then clean em of course. ive always used it to clean my off road tires and never noticed any effects...does it make them tacky or something? I need more rear traction is why i ask and "saucing" them didnt help me sunday..actually hurt more then anything I think.
07-28-2008, 04:00 PM
#1886
Monkey, I dunno how it is in offroad... but I started racing onroad last year and had NO idea what I was getting myself into. But all the local guys stepped up and helped me out even though I had no idea who they were. Some gave me batteries, others lent me motors, pinions, spurs, receivers when mine blew... the list goes on... The only thing they asked for in return was that I had a good time. And I would like to think that at most clubs, this is the general consensus. So I guess what I'm saying is... If you need help, let someone know.
saucing does help, but you have to make sure to wipe them off good before you go out, and do a good burnout and a bunch of hotlaps to warm the tires up. ive had the best luck using regular paragon ground effects, it heats up fast. leaving them dry imo is the next best option, and just do some hotlaps(my prefered method). other sauces work but you have to use tire warmers or else youll be sliding around till they heat up.
07-28-2008, 04:17 PM
#1888
Rob will you be posting pics of your new paint job and of the sweet body seaball ran at the asphalt assualt this past weekend ?
07-28-2008, 06:00 PM
#1890
Ive tried everything and the only thing I 100% sure about is Reino's Ragu...
we used it on offroad and Ive tried it on the TA tires and it makes my car stick...on carpet and asphalt...I apply it on the tires and just let it sit...when it time to go out burn out and Im ready...I dont clean them but I do wipe them off with a towel...and not bragging but most of the racers...all of the racers will tell you for the power we put down my tc3 is hooked like no other...its all about the RAGU!
also if you have a heat gun you can lightly heat them before you go out on the track to avoid the burn out
