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Old 01-24-2012, 02:26 PM   #13441
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This should help.
http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create

You're at 4.0 right now. I'd start there. Check motor temp after 3-5 minutes. If need be for the larger track change spur or pinion to get down into the 3's. 1 or 2 teeth at a time is always a smart bet. If you read up, you'll find that many VTA drivers rarely see motor temps above 135. Personally I shoot for between 125 and 135.
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:29 PM   #13442
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I'm running around 3.8 un my TC6 on a med size track with temps in the 118-125 range.

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Old 01-24-2012, 05:53 PM   #13443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
I went to the XXXS for stock thread to try and find you some help. First page I came across this
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...lasses-17.html

Check out John Stranahan's comments about "push". It might help and comes close to what you were asking about regarding softer front vs. back.
Thanks, sort of forgot about that thread. I just found a NIP, MF low roll center (rear) block set on ebay for 18 bux shipped. I'm going to work on getting this car to be as flexible possible for VTA. The potential is there. That with a different spring set up (soft F hard R) should have me close. I'm hoping that having more chassis roll out of the rear will compensate for running stiffer rear springs, and keep the traction up.

P.S I might move back to Fla in a few months... if so, I am hitting up Brevard county!
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:12 PM   #13444
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Come On down !! You'll be welcomed.
Check out that thread a bit. There was some good setups in there. I ended up using a combination of 2 of them. Silver springs front and Pink in rear. No roll bars to start but ended up putting them on after going to the MF low roll center blocks front and rear. 1 thing I found that you might check. Using the Rear hinge block in front also narrows the front a little. If the wheel track width is narrower in front then in back she'll push badly. I had some of the Losi long axles (The threaded end. Apparently they made both short and long versions) and used a modified (made center hole larger for xxxs axles) set of JRXS offset wheel hubs. That solved the problem and the push went away.
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:26 PM   #13445
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Come On down !! You'll be welcomed.
Check out that thread a bit. There was some good setups in there. I ended up using a combination of 2 of them. Silver springs front and Pink in rear. No roll bars to start but ended up putting them on after going to the MF low roll center blocks front and rear. 1 thing I found that you might check. Using the Rear hinge block in front also narrows the front a little. If the wheel track width is narrower in front then in back she'll push badly. I had some of the Losi long axles (The threaded end. Apparently they made both short and long versions) and used a modified (made center hole larger for xxxs axles) set of JRXS offset wheel hubs. That solved the problem and the push went away.


Damnit man, that is what I have been doing, running the MF rear block up front!!! I knew the advantages of doing this, and with a GT/TC set up is was good since massive steering wasn't needed for the track I'm running (super hi traction asphalt-indoor) but yeah now that you mention it, this is probably killing me in VTA! I was inch perfect with the local fast guy untill the tires got too hot or the tire dope wore off, then he would start pulling slowly away .

I will look for some wider front hexes or other way to space out the front. Glad you mentioned this, I do believe you are correct. I found some AE hexes in my pit box that are wider and will give them a go.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:03 PM   #13446
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4.0 fdr is a good starting point
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:58 AM   #13447
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Default What settings did you change on Novak Edge?

It looks like the only real setting that could use changing is the Drive Frequency. What did you change it to and did you change anything else?
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:10 AM   #13448
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Having trouble fitting enough lead on your chassis to make weight? Want to quickly/easily change your F/R bias without the hassle of pesky stick on weight? Into hiding your chassis under a towel while it in the pits, "Green Gas Tank Syndrome", or outright subterfuge?

Okay, seriously, considering I put something like 150 grams into my XXX-S to get it to 1552 and I only use about 1200mha in 10 minutes, this is kinda cool.

http://www.teamorion.com/weight-transfer-system-en.html

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Old 01-26-2012, 09:29 AM   #13449
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thats cool
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:37 AM   #13450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCSEDanny View Post
It looks like the only real setting that could use changing is the Drive Frequency. What did you change it to and did you change anything else?
set full...and took out the drag brake
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:38 PM   #13451
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That Orion pack looks like a darned good idea. And some say that Shorty lipo's aren't going to change things !! Hah !!
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:41 PM   #13452
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set full...and took out the drag brake
What is this I hear that you will not be running VTA on Sunday??????
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:15 PM   #13453
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What is this I hear that you will not be running VTA on Sunday??????
He doesn't want to make us cry.
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Old 01-26-2012, 05:17 PM   #13454
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Hey All, If anyone has a 25.5, legal esc OR both for sale please PM me. We have a new driver looking for a VTA ride so I'm trying my best to help him and his son out.
Already posted in the "wanted" section. Thanks !!
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:29 PM   #13455
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Default Almost time for the longest week in R/C

The Snowbird Nationals is almost here! For those of you attending, please feel free to contact me with any questions about running the USVTA class at the 'birds. At Mike Boylan's request, I will be at the scoring booth or in tech throughout the event to support this class.
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