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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing

Old 01-08-2012, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrad
I would like to get into vta racing, and I see they do it at my local track, any suggestions on a good place to start? As in chassis or which ever?
Talk to the local track/hobby shop and figure out what brands they have the best parts support for and then heavily consider that option. Having local parts support is VERY helpful. Also talk to the local racers and find out what they are racing - having guys who know your car and can help you is also huge.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by slashdriver
Talk to the local track/hobby shop and figure out what brands they have the best parts support for and then heavily consider that option. Having local parts support is VERY helpful. Also talk to the local racers and find out what they are racing - having guys who know your car and can help you is also huge.
+1
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:51 AM
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Last edited by wwddww34; 01-09-2012 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:13 AM
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:13 AM
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Is the vented endbell legal for vta ??
Or is it legal to just cut/drill some holes ??

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Old 01-09-2012, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Rojna
Originally Posted by wwddww34
Take a look at Novak's new product on their Vintage Trans-Am™ page. It's the 4th product on the bottom of the page. It's the Ballistic 540 Vented Endbells & Bearing Racing Upgrade Kit.. Will this particular upgrade to the Novak Ballistic be allowed in USVTA Rules?
Is the vented endbell legal for vta ??
Or is it legal to just cut/drill some holes ??
I think that the final answer was "let's just keep USVTA as simple as possible to make it easier for new RC hobbyists to join in." So if people started adding mods (like this vented endbell) to their VTA cars, that would make a new RC hobbyist reconsider joining VTA because they would feel like they have to add a $45.00 hop-up to their motor to stay in the competition. One of the best features of USVTA is that you can get started racing for less money (when compared to 1/10 Sedans or other onroad classes) and that makes more people who "just want to try RC" join in on VTA races.
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:48 AM
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As I mentioned up-thread, these vented end-bells were developed primarily for high-performance, Oval Racing. We do not advise their use for USVTA and support whatever Rob decides. We design/manufacture many products which are not suited to USVTA-style racing.

In our USVTA Store listings, we include only those electronics and accessories suitable for USVTA.


Originally Posted by wwddww34
I think that the final answer was "let's just keep USVTA as simple as possible to make it easier for new RC hobbyists to join in." So if people started adding mods (like this vented endbell) to their VTA cars, that would make a new RC hobbyist reconsider joining VTA because they would feel like they have to add a $45.00 hop-up to their motor to stay in the competition. One of the best features of USVTA is that you can get started racing for less money (when compared to 1/10 Sedans or other onroad classes) and that makes more people who "just want to try RC" join in on VTA races.
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:00 AM
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Let me throw my two cents in here and really stir the pot, since I actually possess one of those endbells. I have it because I race 1s oval.
  • 1s oval racing builds a ton more heat in 5 minutes that VTA does in 10
  • The warmest I can get my 25.5 is 110 degrees, running 15 minutes
  • If I though it was an advantage, I'd be using it in my VTA car. I'm not.
  • I have a mill, and can modify cans at zero cost, have five or six Ballistic motors, and haven't modified anything other than 1c carpet oval that I bought from Novak (so I could see how they did it).

IMO Rob should add another addendum to the rule on ceramic motor bearings for the vented cans. Pepole will get the right idea, and if fools want to run them anyway, I'm sure Novak will appreciate the business.
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jayh50
Wow! We had 91 racers at our club race tonight! 11 VTA! It was AWESOME!
We set a new track record for VTA attendance this last Saturday with 16 VTA racers! Overall we had a total of 80 entries, with 37 onroad entries and 43 off-road entries. It was a good weekend.

Here's a YouTube video of the VTA A-Main --> http://youtu.be/7q5pHAAQJyA
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Let me throw my two cents in here and really stir the pot, since I actually possess one of those endbells. I have it because I race 1s oval.
  • 1s oval racing builds a ton more heat in 5 minutes that VTA does in 10
  • The warmest I can get my 25.5 is 110 degrees, running 15 minutes
  • If I though it was an advantage, I'd be using it in my VTA car. I'm not.
  • I have a mill, and can modify cans at zero cost, have five or six Ballistic motors, and haven't modified anything other than 1c carpet oval that I bought from Novak (so I could see how they did it).

IMO Rob should add another addendum to the rule on ceramic motor bearings for the vented cans. Pepole will get the right idea, and if fools want to run them anyway, I'm sure Novak will appreciate the business.
As I have commented before, USVTA racers seem to be the happiest segment of racing I ever read about! I believe in keeping racing expenses as affordable as possible, so more people can get involved and have fun. There is nothing more certain to drive away new customers than expensive and complicated electronics that make competing look like a second job....
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:45 AM
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We ran two 5-minute "heats" almost back to back on sunday. The motor was barely warmer than the ambient air temperature.

If your motor is getting over 150 degrees after one heat, you have other issues than the motor... gearing, bad bearings or some other malfunction.
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Let me throw my two cents in here and really stir the pot, since I actually possess one of those endbells. I have it because I race 1s oval.
  • 1s oval racing builds a ton more heat in 5 minutes that VTA does in 10
  • The warmest I can get my 25.5 is 110 degrees, running 15 minutes
  • If I though it was an advantage, I'd be using it in my VTA car. I'm not.
  • I have a mill, and can modify cans at zero cost, have five or six Ballistic motors, and haven't modified anything other than 1c carpet oval that I bought from Novak (so I could see how they did it).
Great info, thanks.
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by pejota
If your motor is getting over 150 degrees IN VTAafter one heat, you have other issues than the motor... gearing, bad bearings or some other malfunction.
Fixed that for you.

There is a place for the vented cans, namely if you have a direct drive 36oz 1s oval car on carpet and foam tires (where you have tons of grip), and can use every watt of power you can produce because you never lift - ever, not once - over five minutes of racing. These cars all come off about 150, have fan cooling on the motors, and I can assure you there is nothing wrong with them.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


I don't want to beat this dead horse any harder - venting a VTA motor is a total waste of time, money, and effort and will not make you any amount faster. There is an appropriate spot for these vented cans, and VTA ain't it.
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:03 PM
  #13274  
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I just received a HPI Sprint 2 (like the one in picture below) for Christmas. I believe that the body and the wheels are the same as Vintage Trans Am. If I want to start racing in the Vintage Trans Am race, can I use my HPI Sprint 2? Thanks, Ross.
U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing-hpi_stock_camaro.png
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rcsuicide
I just received a HPI Sprint 2 (like the one in picture below) for Christmas. I believe that the body and the wheels are the same as Vintage Trans Am. If I want to start racing in the Vintage Trans Am race, can I use my HPI Sprint 2? Thanks, Ross.
Yes you can, that's what I started with. To be VTA legal, you'll have to change to the 25.5 motor and ESC.
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