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Old 12-16-2011, 06:52 PM   #13021
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Originally Posted by TeamGoodwrench View Post
Can you post your "road course standard setup" ?

Thanks
I run Losi, but if I had a TC3, I'd use this to start:

http://www.rcracing.com/David_Goss_T...orlds_1488.cfm



The first thing I would do is run a few laps and then have a helper adjust the left rear shock one round tighter, and then run a few more laps. Repeat as necessary. Once I got the car to handle where I wanted it, I'd put it on my chassis scales and weigh it and write down the corner weights so I'd have a baseline to adjust back to (in case you hurt it or had to take it apart). I race oval so I have scales:



http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1685

If you don't want to buy or build chassis scales (really, you could get by with just one for the LR tire) you should measure the ride height (all four corners) which will get you fairly close. On my oval car, I do both (check ride height, scale) every time I leave the track so I can make sure I didn't hurt/bend something, and to keep the wedge the same as the tires wear down.
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:58 PM   #13022
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Thanks .

I don't have a TC3 -- it's a TC4, so it's close


I also need to get a new 2S USVTA-legal LiPo -- what's a good one out there now ?
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:05 AM   #13023
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Thanks .

I don't have a TC3 -- it's a TC4, so it's close


I also need to get a new 2S USVTA-legal LiPo -- what's a good one out there now ?
you can't go wrong with any of the Thunderpower packs, for both price and performance...

I personally like the reedy 35c 5000mah pack - http://www.teamassociated.com/reedy/parts/details/709/ - been using that for a couple of years, and hasn't even had any kind of voltage fade
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:06 AM   #13024
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on a different note...

anyone see these yet??

HOBBYPRO Left Hand Driver Kit HD201L
http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=9179

the driver actually looks period correct as well
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:26 AM   #13025
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on a different note...

anyone see these yet??

HOBBYPRO Left Hand Driver Kit HD201L
http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=9179

the driver actually looks period correct as well
The sweetness..oh yes!!!
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:09 AM   #13026
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hey USVTA racers...just giving an update on

The 4th Annual Thunder Jam Championships..(Birds Warm-up)

It will be Sunday Jan 29th, Doors open at 8am

this is a great race for you guys that are going to Snowbirds, and need a good size track and competition to get ready....

its also good for you guys that are not going to make it, and get to have a big race, with alot of competition...

flyer and pics form 1st Thunder Jam posted below...hope you make to the NEW (new carpet and floor) Thunder RC Raceway for this race....

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attach...4&d=1319516457

and be on the look out for the 2012 USVTA plus Southern Nationals in Music City,USA coming in Sept
Attached Thumbnails
U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing-thunder-jam-2009-061.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing-thunder-jam-2009-064.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing-thunder-jam-2009-065.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing-thunder-jam-2009-060.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing-thunder-jam-2009-005.jpg  

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Old 12-17-2011, 09:59 AM   #13027
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You can add your race reminder here:

TeamNovak Facebook

Quote:
Originally Posted by DARKSIDE View Post
hey USVTA racers...just giving an update on

The 4th Annual Thunder Jam Championships..(Birds Warm-up)

It will be Sunday Jan 29th, Doors open at 8am

this is a great race for you guys that are going to Snowbirds, and need a good size track and competition to get ready....

its also good for you guys that are not going to make it, and get to have a big race, with alot of competition...

flyer and pics form 1st Thunder Jam posted below...hope you make to the NEW (new carpet and floor) Thunder RC Raceway for this race....

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attach...4&d=1319516457

and be on the look out for the 2012 USVTA plus Southern Nationals in Music City,USA coming in Sept
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:21 AM   #13028
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thank you...I will....also Ill be in contact soon about the 2012 USVTA plus Southern Nationals in Music City, USA...got some things I want to try...
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:56 AM   #13029
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Is anyone else running a T3 '11 in VTA?

I was working on one today and it seems the outside wheel hits the outside shock shaft ball cup before the inside wheel reaches full throw (when the steering knuckle reaches the c-hub)

I have been running a 009 for a year+ in VTA and I am pretty sure I was able to dial in full lock without rubbing the shock shaft ball cup.

I suppose it has something to do with the change to the dual bell-crank system, but I can't see why. I tried from 0-4 mm of ackerman shims on the inner tie-rod ball studs, but the problem persists.

Any suggestions of things I may be over looking? The car has 0 toe in and 1.5 degrees of front camber...
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:15 AM   #13030
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Is anyone else running a T3 '11 in VTA?

I was working on one today and it seems the outside wheel hits the outside shock shaft ball cup before the inside wheel reaches full throw (when the steering knuckle reaches the c-hub)
I had a similar issue with my TC5. Try +1mm hexes or even washers. That's all it took on my Associated to get the clearance I needed.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:21 AM   #13031
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Some more USVTA fun! I actually got my car going. Thanks to Matt and Scott for running the camera.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:41 PM   #13032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Is anyone else running a T3 '11 in VTA?

I was working on one today and it seems the outside wheel hits the outside shock shaft ball cup before the inside wheel reaches full throw (when the steering knuckle reaches the c-hub)

I have been running a 009 for a year+ in VTA and I am pretty sure I was able to dial in full lock without rubbing the shock shaft ball cup.

I suppose it has something to do with the change to the dual bell-crank system, but I can't see why. I tried from 0-4 mm of ackerman shims on the inner tie-rod ball studs, but the problem persists.

Any suggestions of things I may be over looking? The car has 0 toe in and 1.5 degrees of front camber...
Andrew,

Are you using one hole or two hole front arms? On my T2 007 they are very close to the shock lower spring retainers and I have the shocks in the inner holes. If I go from the inner to the outer hole the wheels will rub. if you have the stock one hole arms, you might try the 302165 2 hole arms with the shocks mounted in the inner bottom arm hole. You also might try the 1.5mm wider front hexes too.

HTH,
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Old 12-18-2011, 03:29 PM   #13033
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LORD I love this class ! Had beautiful weather and a great day of club racing.
It was classic VTA...close and controllable.
Winning a race by driving smooth and clean is a thing of beauty.
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Old 12-18-2011, 04:56 PM   #13034
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LORD I love this class ! Had beautiful weather and a great day of club racing.
It was classic VTA...close and controllable.
Winning a race by driving smooth and clean is a thing of beauty.
I am happy for you, and wish I had the day you had. Yesterday I had probably the worst day ever racing VTA and T/C. I think I hit every wall and other racer at least once until I broke both cars in their respective races, another week or two of racing that bad and I will quit. I am so disgusted with my driving right now!
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Last edited by jayh50; 12-18-2011 at 04:57 PM. Reason: added a thought
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:02 PM   #13035
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On the other hand, another week or two of practice and you'll be less likely to hit the walls as much! Don't let the boards get the best of you!
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