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Old 12-06-2011, 09:44 AM   #12931
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In response to a couple of comments/questions up-thread, I checked our USVTA Store and note that we offer some RMF 25.5 SS Pros and currently have inventory on our new Edge esc.

Any questions concerning Novak USVTA items, you can PM me.
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:52 AM   #12932
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Originally Posted by NovakTwo View Post
In response to a couple of comments/questions up-thread, I checked our USVTA Store and note that we offer some RMF 25.5 SS Pros and currently have inventory on our new Edge esc.

Any questions concerning Novak USVTA items, you can PM me.
Check the link. I could not get it to go to the Novak store. My Mongoose was a refurb unit and I have to say I could not tell that it was not a completely new unit. I might also add that it just has style its a very nice piece for a VTA car and I would be interested in and Edge.
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:44 PM   #12933
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Check the link. I could not get it to go to the Novak store. My Mongoose was a refurb unit and I have to say I could not tell that it was not a completely new unit. I might also add that it just has style its a very nice piece for a VTA car and I would be interested in and Edge.
The link works fine for me. Our RMF items are indistinguishable from our new products; if we run out of inventory for the RMF component, we always replace it with a new one from stock.

We designed our Edge to fit in the smaller vehicles, especially once we heard that the Mongoose was working for some of the USVTA racers...
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:49 PM   #12934
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We apologize, but the page you requested could not be found.




Although its not hard to find

http://www.shopatron.com/products/ca....69593.0.0.0.0
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Old 12-06-2011, 03:42 PM   #12935
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Take a look at Novak's new product on their Vintage Trans-Am™ page. It's the 4th product on the bottom of the page. It's the Ballistic 540 Vented Endbells & Bearing Racing Upgrade Kit.. Will this particular upgrade to the Novak Ballistic be allowed in USVTA Rules?

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Old 12-07-2011, 09:22 AM   #12936
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I have one of these for my 1c oval car. It's a normal ballistic can, with some vent holes added to it. The guys who have ran them in oval say they run about 20 degrees cooler at the end of the run compared to the old cans.

Somebody could make this themselves with a Dremel tool if they wanted to. Or a hand drill. It might look pretty butch, but it would be no less functional.

My question would be "Is it legal to perforate the cans or no?"
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:33 AM   #12937
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A 20F reduction in temps means I can gear taller and go faster. I'll have an advantage over people who still run the older cans. How many new motors, upgrades, or whatever are we gonna have to buy to stay competitive in this spec class?
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:57 AM   #12938
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A 20F reduction in temps means I can gear taller and go faster. I'll have an advantage over people who still run the older cans. How many new motors, upgrades, or whatever are we gonna have to buy to stay competitive in this spec class?
These vented end-bells and the red-wire stators are offered primarily for single-cell Oval racing. In these events, racers are very hard on motors (pushing them beyond original design specifications) and everything makes a huge difference in motor performance and competition.

It is highly unlikely that either of these items are necessary, or even advised, for 25.5T motors. We would support a rule not allowing them in USVTA events.

The release of performance upgrades allows our Ballistic platform to evolve as race conditions (in certain events) or racers require different features.
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:59 AM   #12939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigMBA View Post
I have one of these for my 1c oval car. It's a normal ballistic can, with some vent holes added to it. The guys who have ran them in oval say they run about 20 degrees cooler at the end of the run compared to the old cans.

Somebody could make this themselves with a Dremel tool if they wanted to. Or a hand drill. It might look pretty butch, but it would be no less functional.

My question would be "Is it legal to perforate the cans or no?"
Pretty much how we made the initial quantities....

We used our CNC machine, but the idea is the same.
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:53 AM   #12940
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:00 AM   #12941
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Originally Posted by R40Victim View Post
A 20F reduction in temps means I can gear taller and go faster. I'll have an advantage over people who still run the older cans. How many new motors, upgrades, or whatever are we gonna have to buy to stay competitive in this spec class?
No, you can't, not the way you think you can. In carpet oval, you get full throttle at the horn, and NEVER LIFT. The motors run in a really small RPM window. You are never at part thottle. We have all kinds of insane fans to try and get heat out of the motor because the lap times start to fall off as soon as the motor gets saturated above 140 degrees or so. If you are 0.1 seconds per lap compared to your competitors, you wind up being two laps off the pace at the end of four minutes.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


We have a 4.00 FDR rule at our club VTA, and we have a hard time getting to 135 degrees in a 7 minute main. I don't have an opinion one way or another on use of the can in VTA, I'm just stating the facts as I know it.

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I saw a few weeks ago that RevTech was offering up a similar concept then Novak too in an attempt to cool the motor stators more. I just couldn't see spending $25 for something I can do in 10 min myself. So I just drilled my own endbells with a stepped drill bit in a measured pattern and it looks machined and not "butch" looking at all. Plus it saves 5-6 grams total weight from the motor.
Understood. A step drill will totally work.

I purchased one so I could see how they were doing it. I think I have six or seven ballistic motors. My angle (other than my 1s oval car) was so I could better cool the 6.5 540 motor in my SC10 4x4.
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:12 AM   #12942
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Originally Posted by NovakTwo View Post
Pretty much how we made the initial quantities....

We used our CNC machine, but the idea is the same.
Here is a question for ya now that we are talking about motors. It has been brought up in conversation at out track about the tech'ing of rules, make sure all cars are compliant. A few racers, myself included, bought used motors to get into the class cheaply. Are there markings on the stator/motor somewhere other than the motor sleeve identifying these as 25.5 motors? Do we have to take the motor about to identify them?
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:12 AM   #12943
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Originally Posted by SS LS1 View Post
I saw a few weeks ago that RevTech was offering up a similar concept then Novak too in an attempt to cool the motor stators more. I just couldn't see spending $25 for something I can do in 10 min myself. So I just drilled my own endbells with a stepped drill bit in a measured pattern and it looks machined and not "butch" looking at all. Plus it saves 5-6 grams total weight from the motor.



I have never been a Novak motor fan as there has not been any cooling holes in their motors. But now that there is some cooling holes in my 25.5 Ballistic, the cooling fan I use can blow air straight through the motor can (like a D3 or RevTech motor). It would be nice to offer this option on a new motor from the beginning (sell both a motor with or without cooling holes) rather than making racers spend 1/3 the cost of the motor again for the optional parts.

After taking the Ballistic motor apart I got to say that Novak does have some very nice CNC machining on their motors. (never looked at an SS motor as it never interested me with a non replaceable sensor wire for length or damage)

Even though Novak says the vented endbells are highly unlikely to be necessary or even advised for VTA racing, they are advertising it for the VTA motors...........
We will be adding both the vented end-bells and the red-wire stators to our exclusive Build-A-Ballistic™ 540 program.

And we will be building Premium Ballistic Motors (10.5, 13.5 and 17.5) with the vented end-bells, red-wire stators and ceramic bearings. These motors will be geared mostly for oval racing. So, when we omit the standard components and install the performance items, the total price is much less than adding the new components one by one.

All of our Ballistic 540 standard, and performance items, are compatible with all versions of our Ballistic motor including the 25.5s. That doesn't mean that these upgrades are advised or even allowed.
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:23 AM   #12944
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You can measure the wire resistance of the stator. Email [email protected] for assistance.

Another FYI---you can return any wind Novak spec motor either SS Pro or Ballistic and exchange it for the 25.5T necessary for USVTA. We added this option immediately so that racers could send in their old (mostly 21.5T) motors and swap them for the 25.5s.

Any questions about Novak items can also be posted here, rather than in this Official thread.

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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Here is a question for ya now that we are talking about motors. It has been brought up in conversation at out track about the tech'ing of rules, make sure all cars are compliant. A few racers, myself included, bought used motors to get into the class cheaply. Are there markings on the stator/motor somewhere other than the motor sleeve identifying these as 25.5 motors? Do we have to take the motor about to identify them?
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:56 AM   #12945
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA View Post
We have all kinds of insane fans to try and get heat out of the motor because the lap times start to fall off as soon as the motor gets saturated above 140 degrees or so. If you are 0.1 seconds per lap compared to your competitors, you wind up being two laps off the pace at the end of four minutes.
Craig, understood more so for oval but even in the lowly VTA class I run heat makes a difference IMO. Last week we were running 12.6s lap times and if you were down .1-.2 per lap in the A-Main after 37 non marshalling laps you were down 1-2 laps from 1st. Last week I started 2nd and was .1/lap faster than the leader (w/o traffic) but since I upped my timing a little for more top speed (to be competitive on the back straight) the temps rose to 140`F (vs 128`F usually). The last minute of the 8 min race his times stayed the same but mine were falling off quickly as temps rose. I finished in 2nd by 2.5 sec which is a lot of ground in our class.

Difference, I was running a Ballistic 25.5 and the winner was running a Trinity D3 25.5 motor (which has OEM cooling holes BTW) and he just did not fall off the pace as much as mine did when the heat came up. The cooling is a big deal so I run a fan and now will have cooling holes in the endbell to help combat the problem I hope.

Sadly, without so much timing in the motor I cannot keep up down the long straight and sweeping corners (~125') to be competitive so I must control the heat issue. If this does not work I have a new Fantom ION 3 25.5 motor sitting in my pit box ready to go as long as our track is allowing different 25.5 motors to be run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigMBA View Post
Understood. A step drill will totally work.

I purchased one so I could see how they were doing it. I think I have six or seven ballistic motors. My angle (other than my 1s oval car) was so I could better cool the 6.5 540 motor in my SC10 4x4.
Honestly, I would drop the 6.5 and try something else. I put a new Tekin Pro4 4-pole 540 4000 Kva motor in my SC104x4 and couldn't be happier with it. Tons of torque and runs cool w/o any fans or cooling holes needed. FWIW
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