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Old 10-03-2011, 04:41 PM   #12526
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How dare you suggest that the USVTA ESC formula works.... how dare you.
Of COURSE Rob would suggest the formula works...he devised the formula.

The fact it works well has nothing to do with anything
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:09 PM   #12527
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Looks like just about any esc works....
hummm...ho yeah baby...its nice to know that, and the funny thing was, nobody thought they got beat by a "ESC OF THE MONTH"...or motor for that matter....I loved it

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Although it's not specifically a fall event, I want to add that USVTA is officially "ON" at the Carolina R/C Complex (Hobby Connection) in Easley SC. We had our first race Oct 1 and will continue to run on Saturdays while the weather is warm enough.
Great first day of racing and we look forward to many more!
GREAT WORK JOE!!!!...VTA...USVTA IS GROWING STILL!!!!!!

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OH BOY! Looks like I will be missing another day of WORK to go out and race toy cars....I had a ball in Nashville so I know that the race at THE GATE will be a BLAST!
Im glad you came and tweaks are being made for next year...not sure if I will make the Gate...but some reps from Thunder will be there...holidays are tough with a 4 year old...lol

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Originally Posted by g12314 View Post
How dare you suggest that the USVTA ESC formula works.... how dare you.
yeah what he said...lol....but it works boss, it works...yeeepie

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Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
My FT TC4 finished 2nd in the 1st leg of the Hurricance Midwest series on Saturday.

Here are my electronics:
Novak GTB (original/no-lipo cut-off, 5+ years old)
Novak 25.5 Ballistic (originally a 17.5 Ballistic)
Thunderpower 5000 2s 40c (2+ years old)

Other than the front ball diff slipping due to setup and driving, car was very good.
Brian Ive seen you wheel....you can drive no matter what it is...good job to you and all the VTA racers...
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:41 PM   #12528
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Originally Posted by @Art_Mighty View Post
I think that Coelacanth's actually has a point here...

Exhibit A

(I actually own the Opel, bought it in 1996)



both of these cars use the tamiya TA-02 chassis (which is considered by many to be the first "touring car" chassis) and 95% of the same parts. Tamiya used the same chassis for 4WD sedans, buggies and trucks.

If Kyosho made "touring cars" of the Optimas in the mid 90s then the general argument against his car would be invalid. I think part of the spirit of VTA is served by allowing the recycling of good 1/10 scale 4WD cars and I wouldn't have any problems racing against his Optima with my TA-05.

I know I'm playing devil's advocate here and I'm ok with that. I also don't think that running a chain drive 4WD car with a higher center of gravity and a heaver rotating mass has any advantages.

To me the CORE rules for VTA are:

4WD
Weight
Ride height minimum
Body
Tires
Motor
ESC
Battery

If his car meets the above rules, my $.02, the Optima is perfectly legal.
I like the points you made, far better than the lame troll-card that was played by a few unimaginative members here when they couldn't effectively dispute my rationale beyond a mere generic definition being "the rules". I have no need to pa-troll this forum, I spend precious little time here as it is.
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Old 10-03-2011, 06:15 PM   #12529
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
First practice run with the 25.5 and Cirtix went great. I charged the battery, cleaned and ispected and prepped the tires. All set for a second run and blipped the throttle before setting the car down. Ran fine for a second then sounded like the spur stripped. I pulled the body off and blipped the throttle again just to see what was going on. The motor at low throttle just vibrates. It will not move forward until I hit half throttle or more. I'm going to hook up another motor just to check the rest of the system, but what could be wrong with the motor? Sensor board go bad with only 8 minutes run time on it?

The rotor spins freely, the gear mesh was perfect. The 21.5 it replaced lasted forever. Not my first rodeo.
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Originally Posted by Flying Monkey View Post
We had same problem here with 2 25.5 motors. Got a SS replaced and a Ballistic replaced doing same thing. Not sure if it was a rough batch or what. But Novak made it right with us.
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same here i thought i was the only one
I had a similar problem when I switched from my Tekin to the Cirtix when the rules changed. Sometimes it didn't seem like the speedo wasn't sending signal at all, other times I got the same funny noise you did. I don't know if this is your problem too, but when the car is off, try unplugging the sensor wire from the motor, turn the car on, then plug the sensor wire in.

It was annoying as hell, and I can't explain it, but it solved the problem for me until the new speedo came in.
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:24 PM   #12530
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Default 2011 USVTA SOUTHERN NATIONALS IN MUSIC CITY,USA

Ive got request for more event shirts...we sold out of the 1st 50 really quick....so Ive ordered 20 more...if you would like one....contact me by Oct 12th...with your size and how many...and Ill ship it to you...

Thanks again for all the guys,techs,racers,sponsors, and everybody for the support at this event...it is truly an event to remember

Myron Kinnard
615-851-1876


http://nashrcracer.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5669
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:47 PM   #12531
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I'm sure this may have been covered before but I couldn't find it in a search. is there a huge difference between the 25.5 SS and the Ballistic 25.5? I know the ballistic is rebuildable, and I have a 17.5, but figured I'd ask as I can get a RMF 25.5 SS cheap.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:55 PM   #12532
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Originally Posted by Coelacanth View Post
I like the points you made, far better than the lame troll-card that was played by a few unimaginative members here when they couldn't effectively dispute my rationale beyond a mere generic definition being "the rules". I have no need to pa-troll this forum, I spend precious little time here as it is.
Tread lightly as one of those "unimaginative members" is a personal buddy of mine...

...from my point of view VTA, more than other classes, is very much defined by it's rules. Personally, the only reason I got back into RC was because of the spec classes because I didn't want to spend a fortune in gear to find out I suck and wonder if it was the gear or the driver.

(to remove the mystery, I'm becoming a competent driver but I'm by no means "good". Not bad for being at this for only 8 months tho)

It's my opinion that limiting the class to only "Touring Car" chassis wouldn't be useful because of logic I already stated in my last post.

I remember your first thread with that car and I've been wondering if you are indeed racing the "VTA Optima". The second part of this exercise is for you to actually put that thing on a track and race it. While I do enjoy a good debate, I personally don't believe in thought exercises. Every weekend I can, I'm out at a track somewhere in my area racing the car, refining my setup and getting faster.

If the car is a shelf queen and you're just here making rhetorical arguments than those "unimaginative members" may have correctly called you out.

I'm pretty sure there's a track somewhere nearby you racing VTA. I personally would love to know how well you car does.
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Last edited by @Art_Mighty; 10-04-2011 at 05:39 AM.
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Old 10-04-2011, 05:27 AM   #12533
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Originally Posted by oceanhighz View Post
I'm sure this may have been covered before but I couldn't find it in a search. is there a huge difference between the 25.5 SS and the Ballistic 25.5? I know the ballistic is rebuildable, and I have a 17.5, but figured I'd ask as I can get a RMF 25.5 SS cheap.
Nope. Go ahead and get the SS if it best fits your budget.
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Old 10-04-2011, 05:56 AM   #12534
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Originally Posted by wizzles29 View Post
I had a similar problem when I switched from my Tekin to the Cirtix when the rules changed. Sometimes it didn't seem like the speedo wasn't sending signal at all, other times I got the same funny noise you did. I don't know if this is your problem too, but when the car is off, try unplugging the sensor wire from the motor, turn the car on, then plug the sensor wire in.

It was annoying as hell, and I can't explain it, but it solved the problem for me until the new speedo came in.
I hope that is not the case. I replaced both the ESC and motor as new with the new batch of Cirtix ESCs that were just released. The motors came from Tower (consecutive serial numbers), both arrived on Friday and one of them run for the first time Saturday. The temps after the first 8 minutes were only 125 on the motor and the ESC wasn't over 100. The car looked really good too. During the Blip on the fateful second run I explained previously, the motor revved, the wheels spun up and then it was like the motor just stopped spinning or something in the chassis stopped rotating freely. After further inspection, it did take a couple teeth down on the spur, so I have to replace that before racing. All this happened in under 2 seconds. When I got home, I hooked up a SS 10.5 to the Cirtix to test the ESC and the pair worked just fine. Proper acceleration, throttle control and braking. I wired up the second 25.5, also brand spanking new and its working fine for now, but needs to be run in to be sure. I did get a second Cirtix as well. If I had a spare sensor board I would put that in and test the original motor. I'm not sure the motor was run in or ever run prior to packaging. It would be nice to know that it was load/dyno tested. I'm sure my first motor will be tested when it is repaired.
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:17 AM   #12535
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Originally Posted by Coelacanth View Post
I like the points you made, far better than the lame troll-card that was played by a few unimaginative members here when they couldn't effectively dispute my rationale beyond a mere generic definition being "the rules". I have no need to pa-troll this forum, I spend precious little time here as it is.
Seriously, have fun racing it locally. My statements were based on what would be accepted at sanctioned USVTA event. I'm not trying to force you to make a chassis change. The rules for the class will not change as it relates to USVTA events. You will have to submit your chassis for approval before it is accepted as an approved platform. You might want to pick up a TC3 if you ever want to race an event. Mine run great. Parts are still made and are about as inexpensive as you will find. I understand you have enough parts to build 3 of your chassis and that is great. I would have fun with it until the parts run out. No reason not too. I still run my RC10 gold tub and have fun with it. I have a complete setup for dirt oval for it and ran an old T-bird body on it.

Now as far as the troll comment. I came close a couple weeks ago. I found an ESC that should work for this series with no timing and no boost. I posted it and it met some resistance. But, instead of coming on here and posting over and over about the value of having that ESC added to the list, I made a choice to put my money where my mouth is. I bought one and sent it to Rob for validation. If it works out, it makes the list, if not, enough said.
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Last edited by liljohn1064; 10-04-2011 at 06:58 AM.
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:48 AM   #12536
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
I hope that is not the case. I replaced both the ESC and motor as new with the new batch of Cirtix ESCs that were just released. The motors came from Tower (consecutive serial numbers), both arrived on Friday and one of them run for the first time Saturday. The temps after the first 8 minutes were only 125 on the motor and the ESC wasn't over 100. The car looked really good too. During the Blip on the fateful second run I explained previously, the motor revved, the wheels spun up and then it was like the motor just stopped spinning or something in the chassis stopped rotating freely. After further inspection, it did take a couple teeth down on the spur, so I have to replace that before racing. All this happened in under 2 seconds. When I got home, I hooked up a SS 10.5 to the Cirtix to test the ESC and the pair worked just fine. Proper acceleration, throttle control and braking. I wired up the second 25.5, also brand spanking new and its working fine for now, but needs to be run in to be sure. I did get a second Cirtix as well. If I had a spare sensor board I would put that in and test the original motor. I'm not sure the motor was run in or ever run prior to packaging. It would be nice to know that it was load/dyno tested. I'm sure my first motor will be tested when it is repaired.
John...the cirtix is very picky when it comes to the sensor of the motors and sensor cables any loss of signal and it shuts down. I have seen a few Novak motors that work just fine with other ESC's but for some reason the Cirtix freaks out when used with it. Check to make sure that the sensor on the 25.5 is not loose or the screws were not loose. especially if you added more timing to the motor. I know on some of the Novak motors you almost have to loosen the screws of the sensor to get the sensor cable in and out....this can sometimes result in the Cirtix not picking up the sensor and not working 100% if everything isnt 100% seated after. Just some things to look for if it happens again.
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:50 AM   #12537
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The truth is that if he really has enough parts to complete another car or even a rolling chassis without the shell. He could get enough money to build a WHOLE VTA car. I dont just mean a roller. He could get enough money to buy a new Sakura Zero S, plus a Citrix, Spektrum radio+receiver and the motor. He might even have enough for a good servo and battery. Then he could set his Vintage Optima loose at special vintage races AND he could run VTA within the rules.

But what fun would that be?
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:55 AM   #12538
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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
John...the cirtix is very picky when it comes to the sensor of the motors and sensor cables and loss of signal and it shuts down. I have seen a few Novak motors that work just fine with other ESC's but for some reason the Cirtix freaks out when used with it. Check to make sure that the sensor on the 25.5 is not loose or the screws were not loose. especially if you added more timing to the motor. I know on some of the Novak motors you almost have to loosen the screws of the sensor to get the sensor cable in and out....this can sometimes result in the Cirtix not picking up the sensor and not working 100% if everything isnt 100% seated after. Just some things to look for if it happens again.
Thanks Kevin. I didn't even mess with the timing yet. It is still at factory. I will loosen it up, make sure the cable is in tight, tighten it back down and test again before I send it off.
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:33 AM   #12539
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Originally Posted by Coelacanth View Post
I like the points you made, far better than the lame troll-card that was played by a few unimaginative members here when they couldn't effectively dispute my rationale beyond a mere generic definition being "the rules". I have no need to pa-troll this forum, I spend precious little time here as it is.
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Because the original question wasn't answered, I thought I'd ask again. Disregarding body width, is it allowable to run with 31mm wheels & tires in the front instead of 26mm? My highly-modded CYANide Turbo Optima has narrowed front track to allow 31mm tires to fit just perfectly inside the front wheel-wells of the Cuda body. Just wondering; thanks.
Here's your answer: No

Tire & Wheel Specifications:
The only tires allowed are HPI tire part #4793 "front" and #4797 "rear", using stock tire inserts provided with tire and any HPI Vintage wheels designed to fit these tires. All other tires and/or part numbers are illegal. Wheels and tires designated as "front" must be used as front tires/wheels, "rear" wheels/tires must used as rears.

Let's all go back to our regularly scheduled programming.
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:43 AM   #12540
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Does anyone have a setup for a TC5. I struggle with grip and drive off the corners
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