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Old 06-27-2011, 07:32 PM   #11896
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Originally Posted by Flying Monkey View Post
get my trophy ready...please spell the name right lol
Yeah, theres 2 Os in Goose.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:01 PM   #11897
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I feel the need for speed!

Talk to me Goose.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:54 PM   #11898
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Originally Posted by wwddww34 View Post
I hope the weight does not come down because my HPI Pro 4 is already stripped down to the bones and it weighs in at 1545 grams! If the weight comes down then I will have to take a Dremel and start cutting away at the chassis!
The weight was actually raised up to 1550 with the adoption of the current motor / esc spec, so has been in effect almost a year. Was increased to allow for old chassis (ala Pro 4, TC-3 tubbies, etc) and the addition of an driver figure.

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Well my tc4 is 1555..but i want a tc5 & i know their r really light weight...dats all
My TC5R VTA ride is pretty much spot on 1550 with a 5000mah LiPo and a ManuTech brass LiPo plate. Balances very nicely.

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in many situations a heavy car would perform better than a super light one.
I've related before about our well-intentioned (but ultimately doomed) handicapping scheme the first year we ran VTA (pre-USVTA VTA). We were running both the 4-cell / 27T spec and a 4-cell / 19T "pro" spec, but the idea was to add a weight penalty to each of the top 3 cars in any race for them to carry in subsequent races, I don't recall the exact amount(s), but it seems it was done in increments of battery cell weight since all chassis back then had unused slots if we were running 4-cell which made adding weight easy (just pop in a disconnected cell). What ended up happening with the 4-cell / 19.5 cars was one fellow kept winning (and winning and winning) and I kept getting 2nds and 3rds, the cars kept getting heavier and heavier and going faster. PLUS, if you made side-to-side contact the other car would FLY off. Toward the mid-point of the season he had over a pound of ballast and was STILL nearly unbeatable, the cars just kept getting faster and faster the more weight we added.
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Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2011 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:11 PM   #11899
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Thunder RC VTA race this past Sunday...

http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/15645717
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:50 PM   #11900
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Awesome Battman.

OK so I thought I would order one of those Hobbywing ESC because I hear that the speed passion ESC is made by HobbyWing and that the Feigao ESC is the same thing as the Gen1 Speed Passion which is the same as the Citrix now. So I ordered the Hobby Wing from Hobby King that looked like a Citrix and it was such a good deal at $35 I thought surely I must have beaten the system. Sigh. You can't make this up. and anyway when I went to wire it up I discovered that even thought it very much looks like the Citrix it is sensorless and it hates my 25.5 or something because it will not set up according to the instructions.

I know thats a lot to say just to get to the point that have which is just get the Mongoose combo. Dont try to save money by using a generic Citrix speed controller. On the other hand I do love the FrSky receiver and 2.4ghz conversion for old radios. And the bluebird servo is the fastest thing I have ever seen under $30. Its not quite as quick as the Savox but it was less than half the money.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:35 AM   #11901
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Default USVTA ESC LIST

come on Snoop...this is for everybody...the list is made up of 99.9% bullet proof non failure....Ive tested every esc on the list...they all do about the same...

But the reason the HW and similar looking esc are not on it is for that reason...the same can be said with the LRP SPX Zero...well it looks like a SPX?...or a TC Spec, or a Sphere, or a Super Reverse...oh man the case is used over and over...lets just pull the guts out of the SPX/with timming adv, and put it in the SPX reverse...same case...the list was worked over very well, and as new esc's come out...more may be added, but the current list just works...VERY WELL...trust me on this....

so here you go....these are the ONLY esc's allowed in the USVTA...or the plug here.....

2011 USVTA SOUTHERN NATIONALS IN MUSIC CITY,USA..SEPT 23-25TH

Approved ESCs:
Novak-
Mongoose Micro Brushless/Brush ESC (#1718)
GTB 2 Sportsman Racing Brushless ESC (#1709)
GTB series part numbers:1710, 1711
Havoc series part numbers:1732, 1733, 1735
Slyder part number: 1712
XBR (DISCONTINUED) part number:1720

LRP
A.i. Brushless Reverse part numbers: LRP80100, LRP80150

SPEED PASSION
Cirtix Stock Club Race ESC part number: 12280

Hope that helps and I hate you wasted your money...but Ive got several GTB's that I got to help get ppl legal, and I spent no more than $40 each...
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Last edited by DARKSIDE; 06-28-2011 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:03 PM   #11902
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Yeah! I just got sucked in by the lure of a $35 ESC. I thought it would work but that was Wrong!!!

I was hoping that the Duratrax would work too, but it turns out that it has timing in it. So far nothing else to add to the list. I think the Mongoose is the newest entry there.
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:33 PM   #11903
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I've got a brand new (vta acceptable) havoc 2s for sale with warranty if anyone is interested.
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Old 06-28-2011, 02:40 PM   #11904
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I think I want a goose.
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Old 06-28-2011, 02:47 PM   #11905
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Goose works very well..thats why its was in my TC3
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:19 PM   #11906
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Guys, can I ask your opinion on adjusting timing on the ballistic 25.5 vs. changing the FDR? Is there a benefit one way or the other say increasing timing and raising the FDR vs. reducing timing and lowering the FRD? I was talking w/ someone yesterday about timing and I was curious as to your opinions? What are the pros and cons of doing this each way? Is there a best of both worlds setup here?? I'd like to have good top speed of a loewr FDR w/ decent low rpm punch if possible. Also what temps are you guys shooting for with the ballistic 25.5 after an 8 min. race. I was around 170 after 8 minutes plus about 30 seconds of practice and usually around 155 I think w/ 6 minute mains geared at 3.75 FDR. With my gearing this way I was right in the range of the fast guy s fastest lap times but If I do have to gear down to reduce motor temp I'm sure I won't be. maybe that is where my question about can be applied to this.

Thanks
Dave
Any opinions??

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Old 06-28-2011, 06:06 PM   #11907
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It just depends? I have gone from full timing to one tick past neutral, and the car got faster. There have been other times when full timing was faster. A lot of it is the track, if you are on a short track, sometimes too much timing hurts the car out of the corner and you can't use the top speed anyway.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:23 PM   #11908
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It just depends? I have gone from full timing to one tick past neutral, and the car got faster. There have been other times when full timing was faster. A lot of it is the track, if you are on a short track, sometimes too much timing hurts the car out of the corner and you can't use the top speed anyway.
so timing gives more top end at the expense of bottom end?? Does more timing generate more heat than increasing gearing instead of timing ?

Dave
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:30 PM   #11909
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
Yeah! I just got sucked in by the lure of a $35 ESC. I thought it would work but that was Wrong!!!

I was hoping that the Duratrax would work too, but it turns out that it has timing in it. So far nothing else to add to the list. I think the Mongoose is the newest entry there.
I just found a couple LRP AI new for $25 each in close out
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:20 PM   #11910
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I just found a couple LRP AI new for $25 each in close out
Thats awesome. Where?

And on that other. I could have sworn that the Citrix was actually made by Hobby wing and that you could buy it without the SP sticker for about half the money, but I can't find any such animal.
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