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Old 04-21-2011, 01:40 PM   #11251
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If I am mounting a VTA tire that doesn't fit perfectly, I put the mounted tire (not glued) on a smooth surface and roll the tire back & forth with my hand. Usually that will even out the tire on the wheel.

Occasionally a wheel won't fit perfectly. In those cases I make sure to take a little extra care when gluing the tire. I use rubber bands to hold the tires in place while gluing. I got the rubber bands at an office supply store (or maybe it was Walmart). Just find some decent wide rubber bands that are smaller than the tire diameter.

READ THIS FIRST BEFORE GLUING TIRES
If you are using any of the CHROME wheels, remove all chrome from the wheel where the tire contacts the wheel and will be glued. You can use a small file to remove the chrome. Failing to remove the chrome from the wheel will yeild poor results. This is due to the tire being glued to the chrome plating and not the plastic wheel. Eventually the tire will pull the plating away from the wheel, and the tire will become loose. This will cause traction issues such as traction rolling in high speed corners.

Here is how I apply glue. (I usually work on fronts or rears in pairs)

Front Side (HPI logo)
- Tire #1. Apply glue at 12 o'clock & 6 o'clock and set aside.
- Tire #2. Repeat above
- Tire #1. Apply glue at 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock and set aside.
- Tire #2. Repeat above.
- Tire #1. Apply glue to any areas that have not bonded and set aside.
- Tire #2. Repeat above.
- Tire #1. Apply a small bead of glue at edge of tire/wheel and let dry.
- Tire #2. Repeat above.
Back Side (no logo)
After the front side has dried I repeat above steps.

If you take your time gluing VTA tires, you should never have to worry about them coming unglued during the life of the tires. Since the tire is the only part of the car to touch the ground, a few extra minutes of prep time can save hours of frustration at the track.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:46 PM   #11252
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I also usually have three sips of coffee (or milk) and two Double-Stuf Oreos between tires! Beer affects your ability to get-r-done!

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Old 04-21-2011, 02:50 PM   #11253
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I normally put the titres and rims together and let them sit a day...or put them on the car and "bump" the trigger to even out the foam...then glue them up
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:03 PM   #11254
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Hey guys...looking for help. I am looking for a driver figure that will best fit the HPI Camaro. And where can i find it. Plus how will it mount to the body.
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:40 PM   #11255
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I also need help; looking for the decal set for the HPI '66 Mustang GT body; it has absolutely no decals; no head or tail lights, no grill, no rear fascia, no window trim, NOTHING!! Can't finish the body without them.

HPI won't help as they don't sell them separately.

Any help would be appreciated
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Old 04-21-2011, 10:59 PM   #11256
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You could give [email protected] a try. Here's his thread...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...am-decals.html
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:13 AM   #11257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadRacing View Post
Hey guys...looking for help. I am looking for a driver figure that will best fit the HPI Camaro. And where can i find it. Plus how will it mount to the body.
the HPI tray works great in any of the VTA bodies...and to mount it all I did was spray it black, add the decals and put a dab of sho goo on all four corners and your done...no extra trimming or anything...fits great..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Lotus View Post
I also need help; looking for the decal set for the HPI '66 Mustang GT body; it has absolutely no decals; no head or tail lights, no grill, no rear fascia, no window trim, NOTHING!! Can't finish the body without them.

HPI won't help as they don't sell them separately.

Any help would be appreciated
if it didnt come with decals, its odd...but you could get creative and paint in your tail lights and other areas....it a good learning experience...

btw..all my HPI bodies come with decals...but painting them is alot of fun as well
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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing-daddys-driod-pics-part-3-175.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing-sta70528.jpg  
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Old 04-22-2011, 03:54 PM   #11258
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I didn't get the body directly from HPI. I got it from someone who had painted it; did a great job! But he doesn't have the kit decal sheet for the '66 Mustang GT. Hence my dilemma.
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Old 04-22-2011, 03:56 PM   #11259
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Forgot to mention that I tried [email protected] and he didn't have anything either.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:35 PM   #11260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DARKSIDE View Post



if it didnt come with decals, its odd...but you could get creative and paint in your tail lights and other areas....it a good learning experience...

btw..all my HPI bodies come with decals...but painting them is alot of fun as well
Your cars look great!! What driver figure's are in the newer Mustang?

Lynn
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:54 PM   #11261
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the greenish 65-66 Mustang is by another racer here on the forum...Ive saved every VTA pic thats posted...lol...Bodies By Bean

the newer is mine and its the HPI trophy truck tray....

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Old 04-22-2011, 09:18 PM   #11262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DARKSIDE View Post
the greenish 65-66 Mustang is by another racer here on the forum...Ive saved every VTA pic thats posted...lol...Bodies By Bean

the newer is mine and its the HPI trophy truck tray....

HPI
#104815 INNER BODY SET FOR DT-1 TRUCK BODY
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:39 PM   #11263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Lotus View Post
I didn't get the body directly from HPI. I got it from someone who had painted it; did a great job! But he doesn't have the kit decal sheet for the '66 Mustang GT. Hence my dilemma.
At some point it might be worth it to just spend $25 on another body just for the stickers

Steve
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:50 PM   #11264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Lotus View Post
I didn't get the body directly from HPI. I got it from someone who had painted it; did a great job! But he doesn't have the kit decal sheet for the '66 Mustang GT. Hence my dilemma.
I may have one of the decal sheets. PM me and I will see if I have them. I never use them. I paint everything on.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:26 AM   #11265
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Quote:
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the easy solution is for the guys running VTA locally to get to the NEW guys 1st, before they get confussed in the all the smoke and mirrors.....

I normally get all the things to get a car as close to legal as possible, race it a few times then sale it to somebody that wants to race...or use it as a loaner.....

Ive seen this issue resolved also by shops putting up signs, like "before you buy, what class you want to run"...or "ask before you buy"

racers can also put a car together for the local shop and leave it to show new guys what goes into the car to be legal

and last...have them buy the HPI Sprint 2 Sport(VTA) for like $200...its as close as VTA RTR as it gets(new), and sell them the Novak combo for $100...thats $300 and you are there...

and you dont have to buy the Novak yet, for new guys give them some room to grow...gear the car so its slow enough to not run over the legal VTA cars, and put him or her on a time factor...or if they get good fast...let them step up with the Novak system

its ways to get ppl in without fear and breaking the bank...its up to the racers to find and follow a route...

http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/708/

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...vta/index.html
some guys at our local track are trying to get a usvta class going. there are a good group of people interested in the class.

The only thing is that the promoters are sticking to the rules 100% like is it a bible and that is making a few racers shy about making the change and getting the asst items to be legal. We have not had a vta race yet.

What would you recommend as a way to get people interested in the class without making the big commitment to converting their cars to the class?

Right now the sticking points largely are the esc's since there is a long list of 0 degree fixed esc's on the roar list (mostly older ones like spheres and the like) that are not on the usvta list. They dont want to get one off the short list for a class that may or may not take off.

I guess what i am seeking is help with a resolution, we have racers that want to try but dont want to dump too much money into a maybe, then on the other side we have promoters that dont want to see another "spec" class become a money=win class like the 18r class did.

Is there words of wisdom you can share or some examples where being flexible helped with the establishment of a new class? I am hoping something can happen where the two sides of this can find middle ground. even if temporary.
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