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Old 04-04-2011, 09:39 PM   #11131
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Foxy I have a 92 and 46/47 gear combo to get to 3.3ish fdr. I have to use a ball end driver on one motor screw but it is do able. I talked to Bart after Wed night he is going even lower on his FDR something like 3.15.

I was hot(no motor fan) after the main with 3.42 FDR.

I have now read this enter thread. my eyes are bleeding.
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Old 04-05-2011, 02:01 PM   #11132
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Just a heads-up...I've finally forced myself to list my beloved BMI TC3 (with all the trickest parts you've maybe heard of but never seen) for sale. Getting all those chassis out for the "team" photo told me I've got WAY too much of this stuff horded here, I need to turn some of it loose for others to enjoy...plus it KILLS toys to not be played with.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ever-seen.html

This would make a very competitive VTA ride and the "WOW!!" factor just can't be beaten. For my VTA bretheren (or interested VTA competitors) I'd throw in some lightly used VTA-legal tires and a half-decent Camaro body...but you gotta ask for 'em. Then just add your electronics and bring some towels for your buddies to drool on when they see this.

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Old 04-05-2011, 02:46 PM   #11133
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Originally Posted by HockeyDad View Post
Foxy I have a 92 and 46/47 gear combo to get to 3.3ish fdr. I have to use a ball end driver on one motor screw but it is do able. I talked to Bart after Wed night he is going even lower on his FDR something like 3.15.

I was hot(no motor fan) after the main with 3.42 FDR.

I have now read this enter thread. my eyes are bleeding.
HOW LONG DID THAT TAKE!!!LOL

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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Just a heads-up...I've finally forced myself to list my beloved BMI TC3 (with all the trickest parts you've maybe heard of but never seen) for sale. Getting all those chassis out for the "team" photo told me I've got WAY too much of this stuff horded here, I need to turn some of it loose for others to enjoy...plus it KILLS toys to not be played with.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ever-seen.html

This would make a very competitive VTA ride and the "WOW!!" factor just can't be beaten. For my VTA bretheren (or interested VTA competitors) I'd throw in some lightly used VTA-legal tires and a half-decent Camaro body...but you gotta ask for 'em. Then just add your electronics and bring some towels for your buddies to drool on when they see this.

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Old 04-05-2011, 03:55 PM   #11134
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
Use a 64P 90 tooth spur, and a 51 or 52 tooth pinion (this yields a 3.28/3.35 FDR with a 1.9 internal ratio) . Setting the proper gear mesh, however, can be frustrating until you've done it a few times...

-Remove the spur/pulley assembly from the rear bulkheads
-Loosen the motor screws
-Install the pinion gear
-Shift the motor forward (as far as you can), and reinstall the spur/pulley assembly
-Keeping the spur and pulleys properly installed in the bulkheads (don't reinstall the graphite retaining plates yet), move the motor towards the spur until the mesh is correct, then tighten the FRONT motor screw.
-Remove the spur and pulleys again, and tighten the REAR motor screw.
-Reinstall the spur/pulley assembly, the graphite retaining plate, and the rear top deck screws.

YOU'RE DONE (finally)... It's not so bad once you've done it a few times - be patient and make sure the mesh is right before you tighten both motor screws.
If that's how I have to do it I can use the 73.

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Originally Posted by HockeyDad View Post
Foxy I have a 92 and 46/47 gear combo to get to 3.3ish fdr. I have to use a ball end driver on one motor screw but it is do able. I talked to Bart after Wed night he is going even lower on his FDR something like 3.15.

I was hot(no motor fan) after the main with 3.42 FDR.

I have now read this enter thread. my eyes are bleeding.
If Bart is going lower then I may need to rethink what I thought. I don't want to keep changing the gearing, seems like a pain with this car/motor.
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Old 04-05-2011, 04:33 PM   #11135
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I figured this would make more sense in here than the 009 thread.

I am running a 009 in VTA. In my sedans I typically run 5-ish rear and 6-ish front droop measured with hudy gauges. I never really run VTA but ran it this weekend and discovered the gauges I use do not work properly for the car with the larger tires (I am assuming). I ran a 5 mm RH and managed to get the droop set by feel, pulling up on the chassis with the car ready to race, but if I were to try to set it with a gauge I wold have needed something like 10+ to get the same amount of up travel as I prefer on my sedans. Actually on the fronts I could set the gauge to 6 if I measured under the set screw nub and not at the corner of the arm.

Am I missing something or does this just come with the territory?
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Old 04-05-2011, 04:43 PM   #11136
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The tires are different size. Like foam , it will be easier to set droop as a number over ride height.
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Old 04-05-2011, 04:49 PM   #11137
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Droop shouldn't matter what tires are on the car. Droop is the amount of suspension uptravel from the chassis resting point. 3mm of uptravel or droop is 3mm whether there are no tires on the car or not.

I measure droop by taking a chassis height at rest—say, 5mm front and rear. I set droop by using a height gauge under the chassis at the required height for the droop I want (like 8mm for 3mm uptravel). I adjust the droop screws until the tire is off of the surface, then back it down a touch so that the tire is just touching. With that, I get exactly 3mm suspension uptravel or droop.

Lots of different ways to set it (I think the old TC3 did it with the tires off, too), but I'm not seeing how you would want, need or get 6+ mm of droop.
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:01 PM   #11138
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Originally Posted by squarehead View Post
Droop shouldn't matter what tires are on the car. Droop is the amount of suspension uptravel from the chassis resting point. 3mm of uptravel or droop is 3mm whether there are no tires on the car or not.

I measure droop by taking a chassis height at rest—say, 5mm front and rear. I set droop by using a height gauge under the chassis at the required height for the droop I want (like 8mm for 3mm uptravel). I adjust the droop screws until the tire is off of the surface, then back it down a touch so that the tire is just touching. With that, I get exactly 3mm suspension uptravel or droop.

Lots of different ways to set it (I think the old TC3 did it with the tires off, too), but I'm not seeing how you would want, need or get 6+ mm of droop.
Ummm no….your droop is dependent on your tire size. Especially measuring it the way you are doing it. Because if your tires change in height taller or smaller your ride height will change….which will then effect your droop. The way that Andrew is talking about is using a droop gauge and droop blocks. This is fine to see if everything is level but when you change the tire size your numbers that you normally run will be different. So if Andrew normally sets his car to 6mm on his blocks with say Jaco tires….then the VTA tires being a different size this will effect what number he needs to set his car to on his gauge to get the same “static” number. This seems to be the issue hes having….but if he would follow the method that you just explained it will get him into the ball park and he can double check them with his gauge if he likes to get a base line reading.
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:50 PM   #11139
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Hey Rob, Have you had a chance to try out the Mongoose esc yet ?? No pressure. Just wondering because I've been showing mine off to club members and there's interest but nobody wants to commit when it's not a viable option.
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:03 PM   #11140
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I Just raced mine in a back to back with my OLD GTB (lipo cutoff Version) and There was no differences in my lap times at all. (other than mistakes) I found the brakes way better and I had to turn the Drag brake way down.

I even ran the same ESC settings and it worked flawless

Here is what I found

GTB

Lap times Average of top 20 in 8 min = 11.239 fastest 10.9
temp after 8 min taken within 30 sec of stopping ESC = 109F Motor 139F

Mongoose
Lap time average of Top 20 in 8 min - 11.246 fastest 10.9
temps ESC = 108F Motor 139F

Back to Back Qualifiers and I had to add 2 weights to get it back in balance once the mongoose was installed

I like the added brakes and Will be using them as we have 4 consecutive 180 degree corners.
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:12 PM   #11141
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I need to add a fan to keep gearing I have 3.40, as I said I was hot. Bart is definitely faster on straight but I can gain it back on the infield. I think you will have to be very smooth to gear higher than the 3.30/20 range.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:25 PM   #11142
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Originally Posted by HockeyDad View Post
I need to add a fan to keep gearing I have 3.40, as I said I was hot. Bart is definitely faster on straight but I can gain it back on the infield. I think you will have to be very smooth to gear higher than the 3.30/20 range.
I cant do that. I have to have some punch. I know its not going to be a 13.5, but I cant gear all of the torque out of it. The straight away speed- I mean sure I want it but I dont mind being pulled a little if I can turn and punch all the way through the infield.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:53 PM   #11143
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Ummm no….your droop is dependent on your tire size. Especially measuring it the way you are doing it. Because if your tires change in height taller or smaller your ride height will change….which will then effect your droop. The way that Andrew is talking about is using a droop gauge and droop blocks. This is fine to see if everything is level but when you change the tire size your numbers that you normally run will be different. So if Andrew normally sets his car to 6mm on his blocks with say Jaco tires….then the VTA tires being a different size this will effect what number he needs to set his car to on his gauge to get the same “static” number. This seems to be the issue hes having….but if he would follow the method that you just explained it will get him into the ball park and he can double check them with his gauge if he likes to get a base line reading.


This is what I was doing, except after getting it set by feel, when I wanted to ensure I had it even side to side and get a value to start with in the future, I found my droop gauge was not tall enough by quite a bit to reach the bottom of the arm. I was checking to see if anyone had a simple solution that would allow me to use my gauge.
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Old 04-05-2011, 08:20 PM   #11144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
Ummm no….your droop is dependent on your tire size. Especially measuring it the way you are doing it. Because if your tires change in height taller or smaller your ride height will change….which will then effect your droop. The way that Andrew is talking about is using a droop gauge and droop blocks. This is fine to see if everything is level but when you change the tire size your numbers that you normally run will be different. So if Andrew normally sets his car to 6mm on his blocks with say Jaco tires….then the VTA tires being a different size this will effect what number he needs to set his car to on his gauge to get the same “static” number. This seems to be the issue hes having….but if he would follow the method that you just explained it will get him into the ball park and he can double check them with his gauge if he likes to get a base line reading.
What Kevin said.

Also, when you check it over ride height, be sure not to push down on the tires and raise the chassis with your thumbs. Lift the end of the car by the shock tower and find the point where the tires just touch the ground. Then recheck "ride height" to get your uptravel. Instead of 5 mm, you might have 8 mm this way. The reason you want to lift is because these tires are so squishy and have a lot of deflection and you will compromise your reading if you do not.
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:20 PM   #11145
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mongoose is working out great in the TC3 with 25.5 SS...we will see how it handles this Sunday in a real race...

ran it for around 10-15 mins around my property and it was fdr 4.0 and around 100 deg...speedo wasnt even warm...around 80 deg
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