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Old 03-12-2011, 07:03 PM   #10906
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I'm running a Novak Havoc 2S. I was just looking at the Savox. It's $42.99 through their trade in program but they are out of stock.
Thats because I bought a lot !! Just kidding but I did go a little crazy.

So it's not a BEC problem then. The Havoc puts out plenty of juice. Say Bye Bye to that servo. Should solve the problem. BTW.....Welcome to VTA !
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:06 PM   #10907
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Yeah, still don't have enough balls for a TC

Look for one that has at least 76oz and a speed of .1 or faster the more expensive ones will usually be better - and that includes the higher-end hitec's

But in general futaba, JR are good choices - JR has a digital servo that puts out close to 90oz at 6v and priced around $30 if you are in delaware, check out g-force hobbies in Stanton, that's where I got the 2 I have one's in my m03 and the other in my F1

Thanks. G-Force is the closest hobby shop for me so I'll stop up there this week.
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:47 PM   #10908
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I recently got into VTA and I'm having a hard time driving the car. After talking with some of the guys at the track someone suggested that the problem may be that my servo is strong enough. I have a Hitech 325HB in there now and according to Hitec's website this servo puts out 42 oz at 4.8V. Is this not enough? The car doesn't seem to want to return to center when I let off the wheel. Thanks for your help.
Also check to see how free the Steering system is with out the servo attached. there may be issues with binding. Also I am using a mini servo (futaba S9650) only rates for 50 OZ but at .9sec for 60 degrees and that is more than enough servo to push my FTTC4 steering around. Hitec and some of the other cheap servos have problems centering to begin with so I would try a better servo after checking for binding
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:49 PM   #10909
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I recently got into VTA and I'm having a hard time driving the car. After talking with some of the guys at the track someone suggested that the problem may be that my servo is strong enough. I have a Hitech 325HB in there now and according to Hitec's website this servo puts out 42 oz at 4.8V. Is this not enough? The car doesn't seem to want to return to center when I let off the wheel. Thanks for your help.
If your car is a TC3, it's also possible that you need to clean the crud out of the sliding steering rack, or tighten the servo saver. But a stronger servo is still a good idea in any touring car.
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:55 PM   #10910
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If your car is a TC3, it's also possible that you need to clean the crud out of the sliding steering rack, or tighten the servo saver. But a stronger servo is still a good idea in any touring car.
It is a TC3. I think I'm going to have to do a thorough cleaning of the car. I checked to see if it was binding but didn't see any problems. Still could use a cleaning.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:21 PM   #10911
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just ran my first VTA race last weekend we are trying it out. love it thus far. on the servo, this always cracks me up, i race vta, tc, sct, truggy and dirt oval, my F1, vta and 1/10 edm all use ancient futaba servos i have had for many years. s148
42 oz-in (3.0 kg-cm) @ 6V
and never have an issue, and seem to work fine and always turns well so i never believe in upgrading until it does not work.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:34 PM   #10912
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just ran my first VTA race last weekend we are trying it out. love it thus far. on the servo, this always cracks me up, i race vta, tc, sct, truggy and dirt oval, my F1, vta and 1/10 edm all use ancient futaba servos i have had for many years. s148
42 oz-in (3.0 kg-cm) @ 6V
and never have an issue, and seem to work fine and always turns well so i never believe in upgrading until it does not work.
My first servos were s148's, loved them, seem to work fine and I still have many of them too. But, I don't use them any more. If you try a REAL beefy (high torque)/ speedy (high speed) servo (from any reliable mfg.) you will NEVER look back.....

As the old comercial stated, " Try it, you'll like it...."
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:21 AM   #10913
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My first servos were s148's, loved them, seem to work fine and I still have many of them too. But, I don't use them any more. If you try a REAL beefy (high torque)/ speedy (high speed) servo (from any reliable mfg.) you will NEVER look back.....

As the old comercial stated, " Try it, you'll like it...."
+1 I never believed it as well, but once I went with a better servo, damn my cars started working better

and definitely check out the steering rack on your TC3 - if its cruddy or bearings are shot, it will definitely mess with your steering
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:11 PM   #10914
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Hitec and some of the other cheap servos have problems centering to begin with so I would try a better servo after checking for binding
I'm not disagreeing with you, but I don't know what to think.

Being an r/c airplane guy also, many pattern flyers say the opposite about HiTec. They like the HiTec servos because they say they DO center well and cost less. Yet, in the r/c car world, I hear the opposite.

I'd have to have both, used side by side, in similar cars to know for sure I guess.

Have you had this servo centering problem personally with HiTec? I bought HiTec's for my Midwest Extra 300 because the guys I fly with swear by them.

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Old 03-14-2011, 12:20 PM   #10915
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I'm not disagreeing with you, but I don't know what to think.

Being an r/c airplane guy also, many pattern flyers say the opposite about HiTec. They like the HiTec servos because they say they DO center well and cost less. Yet, in the r/c car world, I hear the opposite.

I'd have to have both, used side by side, in similar cars to know for sure I guess.

Have you had this servo centering problem personally with HiTec? I bought HiTec's for my Midwest Extra 300 because the guys I fly with swear by them.

Signed,

Confused in Indiana
Usually, the servos start out fine, but the pots inside wear quickly, and then the servos have major trouble centering. When it starts, it looks like the radio is glitching, and it goes downhill quickly from there, to the point where it'll be wig-wagging back and forth trying to find center. Most of the higher quality servos have much better pots in them. I've never had any of the issues with Futaba servos that I've had with every HiTec that I've ever run in a car. After going through 3 different servos in my original TC3 in less than a year, I'll never use that brand in a car again. The Futaba 3003 that's in it now has been going strong, and racing, for several years, still no issues.

My buddy insists on using HiTec servos in his TC5s. He's been through 3 in the last 5 weeks.

I use HiTec servos in my combat planes, not because they're the best, but because they're pretty strong and when they take a beating they're the cheapest to replace.
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:31 PM   #10916
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It's not that the servo isn't strong enough, it's just that Hitec makes junk. Sorry to say that to anyone just starting out, but it's true. I ran into the problem with full size and micro servos. Pick up a cheap Futaba 3004 or JR Z250 and you'd be in better shape.
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Usually, the servos start out fine, but the pots inside wear quickly, and then the servos have major trouble centering. When it starts, it looks like the radio is glitching, and it goes downhill quickly from there, to the point where it'll be wig-wagging back and forth trying to find center. Most of the higher quality servos have much better pots in them. I've never had any of the issues with Futaba servos that I've had with every HiTec that I've ever run in a car.

I use HiTec servos in my combat planes, not because they're the best, but because they're strong and when they take a beating they're the cheapest to replace.
I use to think the same thing then when I was reading about the 1/8th offroad worlds and looking at pictures from the event I was shocked at the number of HiTec Servos that I saw in cars. It was amazing that guys who run for All the top brads were using HiTec servos in their cars for this important race. There was a comment about this very fact and people were saying they just hold up better and are able to last the entire race. So maybe the quality of HiTec servos have gone up. I will say that as of 5 years ago you couldnt pay me to use a HiTech servo.....but now I would think about it after seeing what the top racers were using in 1/8th scale where these things take a beating.

I will add is that once you get a brushless motor servo you dont realize how bad everything else was before it. Anything I buy going forward will be brushless they are that much smoother and stronger.
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:32 PM   #10917
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The Futaba 3003 that's in it now has been going strong, and racing, for several years, still no issues.
Futaba is normally what I used in cars and in the air too. I wondered if one company made both since they were similar.
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Old 03-14-2011, 01:09 PM   #10918
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Thundg. er RC Raceway presents VINTAGE TRANS-AM THUNDER 1000 Sunday March 20, 2011 track opens: 8am registration: 9am concourse: 11am driver meeting:11:30pm qualifiers:12 noon RULES: USVTA rules

Just a reminder to any VTA RACER
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Old 03-14-2011, 01:19 PM   #10919
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I have used hitec servos in all of my vehicles and not had any problems. I put a low profile futaba that I got in a trade in my vta car to try and save some weight, but I'm not real happy with the way it feels.
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Old 03-14-2011, 02:51 PM   #10920
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If anyone out there from HPI is listening in, we're ~2 weeks away from the Nationals, which means that unless the Boss 302 bodies are shipping to distributors today, it's not likely that any of us will have them in our hands soon enough to paint, detail and interior them before the Nats & Concours.

It's too bad these couldn't have been pushed through a little faster, as this is really the last big indoor race of the season, and it would have been nice to get a hold of them a little sooner.


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