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Old 05-16-2010, 04:13 PM   #8686
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I don't think there IS a "best" chassis. Any of them have worked and will work in this class. If I was held at gunpoint I might say the shaft drive cars might have a SLIGHT advantage putting the power down in this hp-limited class, but what VERY little difference there might be would be far overshadowed the first driving mistake you made or poor choice on setup.

In this class the TC3-4 (dirt cheap) seem very content and very competitive alongside the latest wonder-tourer choices. Run what you WANT to run, not what you think you have to because it might be "best".
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:45 PM   #8687
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I got my TC3 for $100, brand new, still unbuilt in a factory sealed box. Otherwise I would have been open to anything.
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Old 05-16-2010, 06:00 PM   #8688
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I, for one would highly recommend the TC4, I run one at our track and I get top-5s alot. It also does not break and handles very well on asphalt. it also works better with brushless and is quiet
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:15 AM   #8689
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Third Weekend of 25.5 Testing

I fought oversteer all day and Evoracer had essentially a new car so lap times weren't necessarily optimal. Plus, only two of us made it and only one of us (me) had the 25.5 motor. So take all this with a grain of salt if you'd like.

My FDR is still at a 4.6 or so (47/88 in 64 pitch on a TC3). I think i could go up a few teeth but since i was working on handling i never bothered to change it. I'll go up to a 49 or maybe even a 51 for this upcoming sunday.

Evoracer had his XXX-S loaded with a 21.5, i think he was geared about the same, but he needed to drop his EPA down to 55% or so to match my speed on the back straight. Interesting observation though, his car seemed to "jump" up to it's top speed while my car had more of linear feel coming up to speed. However, top speed was equal coming down the straight.

Lap times were within 1 second to .5 seconds of each other. Fastest laps were withing .5 seconds of each other. One qualifier we actually had the same exact time for fastest lap.

Once again it all came down to setup and driving. Perfect lines and a good setup got you great lap times. Sadly, i was super slow through one technical section of the track. Not sure if my diffs were slipping too much or if i needed some sway bars, but my TC3 didn't transition very well at all. Could have also been the steering servo, i'll have to investigate.

Anyway... things should be interesting when everyone gets their 25.5 motors...
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:31 PM   #8690
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Anyone looking to race VTA in the NYC area, check out Brownie's Hobbies race program at Midland Beach. Great atmosphere!
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Old 05-20-2010, 02:38 PM   #8691
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Default VTA TIRE WEAR

ANY SECRECTS TO SETTING UP AKERMAN ON A TC3 TO PREVENT VTA TIRE WEAR ?
A COUPLE OF OUR GUYS HAD SEVERE TIRE WEAR AFTER ONE DAY OF (ABOUT 4 HOURS) OF PRACTICE,I DID NOT HAVE MY TIRES YET (DO NOW)
SO I FIGURE DON'T PUSH IT SO HARD PRACTICING,CHECK TOE & CAMBER
ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ?
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:36 PM   #8692
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Seems odd, VTA tires are known to be long lasting. Are they using extreme camber and toe-out or something? Where are they wearing? I run a TC3 and after three night of racing my tires are almost good as new.
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:39 PM   #8693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUCKSHOTRC View Post
ANY SECRECTS TO SETTING UP AKERMAN ON A TC3 TO PREVENT VTA TIRE WEAR ?
A COUPLE OF OUR GUYS HAD SEVERE TIRE WEAR AFTER ONE DAY OF (ABOUT 4 HOURS) OF PRACTICE,I DID NOT HAVE MY TIRES YET (DO NOW)
SO I FIGURE DON'T PUSH IT SO HARD PRACTICING,CHECK TOE & CAMBER
ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ?
Your cars need to be steering. A good indication of how well your car is working is the difference in wear front to rear. Severe difference means you're pushing.
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:36 PM   #8694
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1 COMPLETELY WORE OUT THE FRONTS FROM INSIDE TOWARDS OUT
THE OTHER HAD SLIGHT INNER WEAR ON ONE FRONT

WE RUN ON ASPHALT
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:14 PM   #8695
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Is the one guy with two bald tires running a locked front diff? The guy with one worn tire, I'm not sure about.
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:13 PM   #8696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUCKSHOTRC View Post
ANY SECRECTS TO SETTING UP AKERMAN ON A TC3 TO PREVENT VTA TIRE WEAR ?
A COUPLE OF OUR GUYS HAD SEVERE TIRE WEAR AFTER ONE DAY OF (ABOUT 4 HOURS) OF PRACTICE,I DID NOT HAVE MY TIRES YET (DO NOW)
SO I FIGURE DON'T PUSH IT SO HARD PRACTICING,CHECK TOE & CAMBER
ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ?
The surface texture could be something uniquely abrasive, however unlikely that may be.

But just to pinpoint a less obvious cause, you wouldn't happen to be running with timing advances or with more snot than a 21.5, would you? I ask because m experience with these tires is that they last for months at non-boosted 21.5 speeds, but they go bald in 2-3 weeks running with timing advances. There are three asphalt tracks I ran at last summer in the days of Tekin V.200, and all three tracks showed similar wear. I can't imagine how much wear we'd get with V.203! Luckily, all the clubs around here are running without timing advances. Tire wear is back to being very low. If you can't find the culprit to your tire wear, just move to the NJ/NY area and race with us.
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:50 AM   #8697
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I am one of the two guys(the one with tread still left on the front). Both of my front wore down the same, the inner three tread rings were gone. I am running a tc4 that I bought of rctech and had not touched it. White springs up front, purple in the back and I don't know what for oil. I am running a 27T with 28/66 gearing which only got hot after a long run.

When I got home after the practice I adjusted the camber back to 0, I think both sides were sitting at -2 degrees and one side was alittle toed in.
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:28 AM   #8698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brrneon View Post
White springs up front, purple in the back and I don't know what for oil. I am running a 27T with 28/66 gearing which only got hot after a long run.
If those are associated springs, you have a 40 lb spring on the front, and a 28 on the back. You need to change to something like Blue on the front (17 lb??) and Silver on the rear (15 lb)

Also try 40W oil front and 30W rear for a start.
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:32 AM   #8699
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WHOAH!!!!!!

White and Purple?!?!?!!?

Those are 40# and 30# springs, respectively....

(DANG, robk beat me to it)

I run a TC3 and TC4 and i'm at the opposite end of the spring rate chart. Anywhere from Green to Gold which is 12 to 19.5 pound springs. A lot of people have found that with the harder D-Compound tires, you need to soften up on the suspension. Some people are even running ride heights into the 10mm range to really let the suspension travel and do all of the work.

I'm at work right now (shhhhhh) but when i get home i'll send you some setup sheets later this evening for tomorrow morning unless some others beat me to it.

BTW, you mention buying the car used... did you check the front and rear diffs? Those heavy springs make me think you've got an old drift car and maybe have a one-way up front and spool in the back.
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:45 AM   #8700
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Thats the first thing I did, I replaced every bearing and a few other parts that didn't feel right, I just did not touch it setup wise. This was over a year ago and I planed on racing it but onroad did not start here until recently. Thanks for the help on to what springs to run and for a setup sheet, I'll have to add more to my order now besides new front tires .
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