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Old 01-28-2010, 03:22 PM   #7906
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Mr. Novak, just wanted to express my thanks and appreciation. Although not running VTA currently, I keep my eyes open to all these issues because my position as a club president requires me to be concerned for the betterment of the club. Through the years I've run different brands but never had a loyalty to any one....until now. What you folks are doing with development and marketing is fantastic. You've earned a loyal follower. You guys doing VTA really should be aware of just how much it took for Novak to step up and take a stand for the growth of the hobby.
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:22 PM   #7907
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Originally Posted by dragracer72nova View Post
I am Very with the Rule Changes that are being made for the USTVA! I am looking forward to next winter season. I think this is in the right direction, for the class. This way people are not dropping money on the speedo of the week!

Oh ya, I forgot one thing,
Solara will you be building a New VTA car? Remember we need rematch!
Dave
IF you are using the "LASER" brand car, there would not be any rematch...YOU LOSE already...

You need to go BLUE or PURPLE....never ORANGE. I have plenty of cars to use for VTA, may be you can help me to choose one. But I kinda like the support by Stegan and Kane so I might stick with the BLUE one. Who knows...may be TCS will have a USVTA exhabition class in the future. Don't forget about my Magic car which is very much DIALED on RCGT and I am sure it can be very much DIALED TOO on USVTA.
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:32 PM   #7908
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Ok, please allow me to throw a wrench in the works here. We are looking at a rules package for our outdoor track, roughly 200x80. We have been running the USVTA rules with the exception of allowing any motor, most run the novak anyway, and we opened the body rule up to get mor variety out there. The speed under the old rules was ok for our track, though I would like to do away with the turbo and the like of the higher end escs. I fear that with the new motors that it will be too slow for our track. I have a tekin esc and am more than willing to run a lower profile to even things out, but I don't feel that myself or anybody else should have to buy an esc to run a slower class. Now don't get me wrong I'm not about that all important win in this class. I have a blast racing door to door with other racers. So I guess my question is, what should we do in our situation?
That's a pretty big track, but let me say this: we were running this class outdoors with 4 cell and stock motors 2 summers ago on a 120 foot track with a full sweeper and it was a lot of fun, and way slower than it is today. Last summer, we had a race at a gas car track with a 175' straight, and I was totally surprised at how good the cars looked. To be honest 200' is big for any electric car besides mod TC. I would give it a try before you make any decisions, but I understand what you are saying. Have you considered a cut out for the TA cars? Like to make the straight a bit shorter?
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:39 PM   #7909
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Thank you for your comments. It is my belief that unregulated tech advances in entry-level/spec racing has had a detrimental effect on this hobby. Because there is no national direction, we (at Novak) believe it is important to "put our money where our mouth is".

We wanted to start somewhere, and are excited about developing this program in conjunction with USVTA. We want to make the transition into these new rules as painless as possible for series members (and future series members....)

We are always open to suggestions for improving our offerings and i have been pleased by the comments and inputs that we have received.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
Mr. Novak, just wanted to express my thanks and appreciation. Although not running VTA currently, I keep my eyes open to all these issues because my position as a club president requires me to be concerned for the betterment of the club.

Through the years I've run different brands but never had a loyalty to any one....until now. What you folks are doing with development and marketing is fantastic. You've earned a loyal follower. You guys doing VTA really should be aware of just how much it took for Novak to step up and take a stand for the growth of the hobby.
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:44 PM   #7910
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
IF you are using the "LASER" brand car, there would not be any rematch...YOU LOSE already...

You need to go BLUE or PURPLE....never ORANGE. I have plenty of cars to use for VTA, may be you can help me to choose one. But I kinda like the support by Stegan and Kane so I might stick with the BLUE one. Who knows...may be TCS will have a USVTA exhabition class in the future. Don't forget about my Magic car which is very much DIALED on RCGT and I am sure it can be very much DIALED TOO on USVTA.

Nope I got Blue and Blue!
Dave
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:49 PM   #7911
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Originally Posted by JCarr View Post
Ok, please allow me to throw a wrench in the works here. We are looking at a rules package for our outdoor track, roughly 200x80. We have been running the USVTA rules with the exception of allowing any motor, most run the novak anyway, and we opened the body rule up to get mor variety out there. The speed under the old rules was ok for our track, though I would like to do away with the turbo and the like of the higher end escs. I fear that with the new motors that it will be too slow for our track. I have a tekin esc and am more than willing to run a lower profile to even things out, but I don't feel that myself or anybody else should have to buy an esc to run a slower class. Now don't get me wrong I'm not about that all important win in this class. I have a blast racing door to door with other racers. So I guess my question is, what should we do in our situation?
In all honesty, I think the "problem" with track size is far more a matter of perception than reality. People tend to THINK that because there are long straights that they HAVE to run "fast" cars instead of that they CAN run "fast" cars.

I'll trot out my "real racing" example again. Road America / Elkhart lake has one of the longest straights of racetracks in the US. In fact it has THREE of the longest straights in the US all in one beautiful track. They race EVERYTHING there right on down to Formula V (based on OLD VW bug engines and suspension components) which is the slowest open-wheel formula going. The ONLY dead heat that is certified in SCCA National racing happened in a Formula V National at Road America. The finish line photo shows an absolute dead heat and you could cover 5 or 6 cars with a thirty foot square tarp. Racing does not get ANY more exciting than that.

This substituting close controllable racing for outright speed is the idea behind VTA. I think if your group can get beyond the mis-perception that they HAVE to have fast cars for the long straights they'll have a BALL with the wad of cars dicing it up throughout the race.
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Old 01-28-2010, 05:57 PM   #7912
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At the 25.5 speeds on a large outdoor track an average skilled racer will be able to use, see, feel and enjoy the art of drafting.

Also with the no FRD limit, choices between straight-away speed and infield performance will need to be made. (think Road America long box vs. Blackhawk Farms short box for Formula Vee's.

Sounds like nothing but FUN to me.
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:06 PM   #7913
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<---Likes to bump-draft
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:39 PM   #7914
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Originally Posted by dragracer72nova View Post
Nope I got Blue and Blue!
Dave
Not blue enough untill you get 1 of those MM BLUE LED light fixture and the blue lipo to power that light fixture. And untill then....you are still FAILED (according from the Stegan...)
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:18 PM   #7915
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Im somewhat new to VTA and the forum, so please forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere in the forum.
My question is what is a good point to start at with my pinion and spur for VTA. The indoor track has probably a 100ft straight. I have a TC4 and 64 pitch gears.
Thanks, Chad
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:05 PM   #7916
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Im somewhat new to VTA and the forum, so please forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere in the forum.
My question is what is a good point to start at with my pinion and spur for VTA. The indoor track has probably a 100ft straight. I have a TC4 and 64 pitch gears.
Thanks, Chad
If you're running 2s / 21.5 spec you'll probably want to run right down to the 4.2 FDR minimum if you've got a 100ft straight.

Your pinion to get this depends on what spur you've got. To get as close as possible to 4.2 try this:

Multiply your spur gear # teeth times 2.5 , then divide that total by 4.2.

For example, if you have an 88T spur:

88 X 2.5 = 220

220 / 4.2 = 52.38 tooth pinion

In this case you MUST round down to remain VTA-legal, so a 52 tooth pinion would be the max you could run with a 88T spur. The actual FDR in this example would be 4.23 which is above the 4.2 minimum. If you used a 53 tooth pinion the FDR would be 4.15 which is too low to be legal.

To get larger pinions on the TC4 (if you have a "tub" style chassis) you'll have to use your Dremel tool and grind away some of the webbing under the pinion gear for clearance.
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:16 PM   #7917
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Thanks a lot. Thats what i was trying to figure, but didnt know how to get the bigger spur in. Guess Ill fire up the drimmel!
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:33 PM   #7918
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Dremel the webbing behind the spur and you can run 84/50 for a 4.2. Another option is 81/48 for a 4.21 which will fit without any modifications to the car.
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Old 01-28-2010, 10:05 PM   #7919
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whats the smallest spur the TC3 and TC4's can take?

i know on my Academy i can run a 62 tooth, maybe even smaller.

The police car conversion is coming along nice, got in my blue lenses.
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Old 01-28-2010, 10:19 PM   #7920
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I'm not exactly sure what trec is talking about Dremeling "behind the spur" but I'm sure he'll chime in to straighten us out. I'm sure it's something I'm not thinking of.

When I was testing last summer (before I made one of the bigger mistakes in my RC life and sold my TC4) I bolted a 78T spur directly on to my TC4. As far as I know it will take as small a spur gear as you care to try as long as it has the "common" spacing for the ball holes that are used to screw it to it's hub.

By Dremeling the webbing in the chassis immediately below where the pinion goes to about 1/2 or so it's original height (note that I still had webbing there to provide stiffness) I was able to gear down as low as 3.5 and had room to go beyond that... Was far lower than allowed for the current spec but might be of use to know when the FDR limit is dropped with the new 25.5 spec later this year.
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