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Old 11-17-2009, 07:13 AM   #6631
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Originally Posted by RC-ProSpeed View Post
I'm not an expert on VTA, but I think that it depends how you set your car.
I run with the mustang with no lid or wing attach to it, I setup my car for this body and so far is doing well racing at "the Track" in MD
I try the Camaro body with the same setup in my car and the car start pushing. but for some other races at this track the camaro works best, so it depends how you setup the car
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Originally Posted by robus View Post
I am not an expert, but the only difference I noticed is between Parma's cuda and HPI Mustang and Camaro. The Cuda was really pushing and huge. As far as I can tell HPI bodies behave about the same. I choose Camaro for being one piece and stronger front.

Rob
Thanks for the info. That makes me wonder if I switch the body I am using (Parma Boss mustang) to a camaro body would that solve my oversteer issues. I'll have to keep that in mind. I do like the Boss Mustang however, but it does seem the HPI ones are more popular as far as the cuda and the camaro go.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:52 AM   #6632
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Originally Posted by 37 RACING View Post
There's the problem the ability to police these speed controls on the local level .That's tough and real time consuming!
If you want to do it, it's actually pretty simple. Anyone using turbo is as obvious as a coal pile in a ball room. The cars should be close to the same speed, and guys with similar ability should be very close, like within .2 per lap. If someone is blowing past everyone on the straight, or if they suddenly pick up .5 per lap on everybody, that is your clue.

Really the simplest tech for club racing is to announce that the winner will be checked. That way you only have to deal with one car.

The other thing is that most guys will go to the limit of the rules, but they want to stay within them. The local series has asked that turbo be turned off for Tekin escs, and it has worked out great so far. Everybody is very close again.
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:28 AM   #6633
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If you want to do it, it's actually pretty simple....
Really the simplest tech for club racing is to announce that the winner will be checked. That way you only have to deal with one car.
Yeah, and the unbelted tires freewheeling is a dead give away. But if that isn't enough of an indication, the Tekin ESCs can be hooked up to a Hotwire, as there's enough laptops in the pits to host a friggin' HALO convention these days.
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:31 AM   #6634
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for the HPI Mustang, does this have more push than the Parma Mustang?

Also, how is its durability? Thinking of picking one up.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:01 AM   #6635
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine View Post
I think if you don't let the class evolve naturally it will fade away . Technology is a good thing, tracks make money from selling new parts and equipment to stay in business. I`m not a shop owner just a racer , and I think we should take advantage of all that is offered including the new HPI #102993 &102994 tires.
Does anyone tried already those new tires?
by how the treads looks, it could be that they have a little more traction than the 4793 & 4797
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:37 AM   #6636
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also, anyone try the parma cuda?
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:50 AM   #6637
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Cain
My son has been running the Parma Cuda all summer and non in the Hurricane series. Won the summer series and is leading the Hurricane series with it.
We found that the "boxyness" of it actually helps when you get bumped. It doesn seem to spin out as easily.
Plus it looks SWEET with the dimond plate stickers on the bumpers!!
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Old 11-17-2009, 01:41 PM   #6638
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
for the HPI Mustang, does this have more push than the Parma Mustang?

Also, how is its durability? Thinking of picking one up.
You're WAY overthinking your foray into VTA. Work on your setup, don't worry about the which body MAY or may not have more, less or equal downforce at one end or the other. I've seen people kick a$$ with pretty much any of the available bodies, enough so to say with confidence that the body is neither an advantageous or limiting factor.
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Old 11-17-2009, 02:38 PM   #6639
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I'll keep that in mind. Speaking of which since you feel its more of a setup issue, can you review what I stated previously as the issue I am having and give me your input on what setup changes I should make in general to get the handling I am looking for?
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Old 11-17-2009, 03:48 PM   #6640
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Well said. It would be nice if someone came up with one a little less expensive - US$20- I think it was - As much as the body. At least it will transfer from body to body with double sided tape. There was a link about page 420 or so with someone with a Convertible with this interior tray - had to find one for myself. Really good quality too. Should look sweet when done. (My body will probably be trashed by then though)

And yes - lucky they had a Right Hand drive set for us backward people in Oz.
Check out page 74 of the Pics and Paint Thread. Came up a treat!
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:41 PM   #6641
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I'll keep that in mind. Speaking of which since you feel its more of a setup issue, can you review what I stated previously as the issue I am having and give me your input on what setup changes I should make in general to get the handling I am looking for?
Quite honestly? No. I'm not there to see first hand what's going on, and trying to guess based on second hand information that may or may not be adequate is like trying to guess the size of an elephant by looking at the tip of it's tail.

The first step is find a good baseline setup. The kit setup is usually pretty darn close. Or look at the mfr's site and download a setup for a track and class as close in description to what you're running and put that on and run it a several packs so that you absolutely KNOW what the car is going to do in every situation on the track. Then change ONE THING AT A TIME so you know what worked and what didn't. You change two or more things you have no idea if the second thing cancelled out part of the gain from the first (or vice-versa) so your testing time is wasted.

There are a number of EXCELLENT guides that guide you through "If--Then" tuning. I have a copy of the M-Power guide that I paid some nominal amount several years ago now to download. I think that guide serves as the basis for the tuning guide distributed by XXX-Main as it follows an identical format. That guide is available for nominal cost through a number of sources including Stormers.

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Old 11-17-2009, 07:11 PM   #6642
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:03 PM   #6643
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I have to say at our track we have some pretty close racing from 1st thru 10th are within .8 seconds difference. We are with in 1 second on the fastest laps from the 17.5 rubber tire class. Guys that are slower I help out trembously to get them up to par, I had one guy beat me in the main after I set his car up. I also drive just about everyones car that races at our track and turn the same lap times that my TC3 does and I think if they learn to drive there cars they we give me a run for my money ( I am far from being a pro driver). Guys are always wondering why mine is fast, but I haven't touch the diffs or shocks since Mimi's last Feb. I run an LRP SPX on profile 1 with the timing on the motor at 12 degrees. 84/50 gearing 4.2FDR.

I am now trying to get a set up on the TC5r ( currently running Keven Hebert's 13.5 set-up, its working pretty well but I will turn .3 faster times with the Pengiun TC3. I do think its funny guys go out and buy them Tekin's and put the boost in and I will still beat them. Although I am playing with the Castle Creations Mamba Pro, but it sucks u half to buy a laptop to program it.

Enuf said, I talk way too much.
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:39 AM   #6644
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We are now offering 25.5T replacement wound stators for our Ballistic motors:

Ballistic Specialty Wound Stators
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:48 AM   #6645
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Forgive my ignorance, where is 25.5 used?

Ballistics aren't USVTA legal are they?

Not that a Kinetic/Ballistic wouldn't be a lethal VTA combo.
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