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Old 11-06-2009, 08:08 PM   #6601
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
When going from running VTA to say 13.5 rubber on the same chasssis, how much of a different setup are you guys seeing, other than the tires, motor, and body change.
stiffer springs, less droop, heavier sway bars.
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Old 11-08-2009, 05:03 PM   #6602
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Hey guys. I finally got to run my VTA car and I can say i had a blast!

it took a bit to get it to work right, I basically had NO rear traction initially, but some a VTA regular showed me the techniques to get the tires ready. Anyway, the main issue I wanted to run by you guys to find what I should due setwise is this:

ok, so around the track, I worked on the car to get the rear planted. not being a setup guy, I used info from a website that had common setup advice as to changing certain items, etc. would do to the handling of the car. I got the car to almost do exactly what I want. It had A LOT of steering, I just need the rear to stick alittle more.

if I turn hard enough, I can break the rear tires free and drift it around a turn, other guys there cars stay stuck basically to the track. The problem arises on a long sweeper that at times if I let off the throttle a bit the rear end could come around. Also, it kind of "chatters" when the rear is about to break free. I even managed to traction roll once so it has grip I am thinking, just that one rear area issue.

So, basically need to know, in general, what should I change if I want the rear to stick more on the car?

My car is different than others, so I can't just post and say give me a setup for a TC3, etc., but here is some general info i can post that I settled on:

starting setup:
- Pistons 1.1 front and rear
- 35W oil front
- 30W oil rear
- Heavy springs (front heaviest spring I have)
- medium springs
- 8mm front and rear ride height, no droop set
- rear link fully angled and 1 short of full length
- 5 degees of caster in castor blocks
- 2 degree rear toe in

this setup was pretty much what it came with from a guy who had the car before running touring car foam.

I then went to:

- 40Wt Front Losi oil
- 25Wt rear Losi oil
- softer rear springs (not sure ratings exactly, have 1 spring softer available I think)
- 5mm front and rear ride height and droop set at that level
- Move rear upper shock position inward (no more holes available, basically over 2 holes)
- Moved front upper shock location outward 1 hole (2 more holes available)
- 7 degrees of caster in caster blocks
- 3 degree toe in

So, in general, what do you guys recommend that I do next?

specifics:

- Academy STR4 Pro II shaft drive with graphite shock towers
- Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro ESC with DRRS Full and Timing max
- Tekin 21.5 motor with cool fan heatsink(open motors at track)
- RFI 4000mah 25C 7.4V lipo
- Parma Boss 302 Mustang Body ( I really like the looks of this!)
- Weight about 1500+ grams
- no oneways used, (have torque limiting differential oneway and center shaft oneway)

One other thing, on the car I have, the body I painted kind of has a police car look to it unintentially, so, I am wondering does anyone have any pics and / or info on how to do a full police car setup with working lights and possibly even a siren sound?
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Last edited by Cain; 11-09-2009 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 11-09-2009, 09:56 AM   #6603
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not sure on how to setup your car, but glad you are racing VTA...

how was everyones racing this weekend....we had a great group of racers this past Sunday that ran some very competitive races...had a blast!
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:39 AM   #6604
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One other thing, on the car I have, the body I painted kind of has a police car look to it unintentially, so, I am wondering does anyone have any pics and / or info on how to do a full police car setup with working lights and possibly even a siren sound?
I used a light bar from RAM they sell them at tower. One word of warning having a cop car on the track makes you a HUGE target!
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:51 AM   #6605
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http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/policesiren.html
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:59 AM   #6606
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I used a light bar from RAM they sell them at tower. One word of warning having a cop car on the track makes you a HUGE target!
Very nice! If possible, can you post some pics of how the wired it up on the chassis and an undershot of the body to see how you held it in place?

Is this the item you used:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDZ75&P=7

From what I can tell if this is the item, it looks like you can use a 6 cell pack to power it. I wonder if I could rig it up to the power wires from the battery pack, though, not sure how much it will draw on the pack. Thoughts?

Now just to find some "Police" stickers
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Old 11-09-2009, 11:20 AM   #6607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Hey guys. I finally got to run my VTA car and I can say i had a blast!

it took a bit to get it to work right, I basically had NO rear traction initially, but some a VTA regular showed me the techniques to get the tires ready. Anyway, the main issue I wanted to run by you guys to find what I should due setwise is this:

ok, so around the track, I worked on the car to get the rear planted. not being a setup guy, I used info from a website that had common setup advice as to changing certain items, etc. would do to the handling of the car. I got the car to almost do exactly what I want. It had A LOT of steering, I just need the rear to stick alittle more.

if I turn hard enough, I can break the rear tires free and drift it around a turn, other guys there cars stay stuck basically to the track. The problem arises on a long sweeper that at times if I let off the throttle a bit the rear end could come around. Also, it kind of "chatters" when the rear is about to break free. I even managed to traction roll once so it has grip I am thinking, just that one rear area issue.

So, basically need to know, in general, what should I change if I want the rear to stick more on the car?
At least yours was adjustable. I discovered my xxx-s had NO droop screws in the chassis so had to run at 9mm all day. Lots of body roll gave some side bite, but sooo not the right setup! I gotta get faster so your cop car can chase me for a change
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Old 11-09-2009, 11:30 AM   #6608
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At least yours was adjustable. I discovered my xxx-s had NO droop screws in the chassis so had to run at 9mm all day. Lots of body roll gave some side bite, but sooo not the right setup! I gotta get faster so your cop car can chase me for a change
Heck, both of us were doing a good job of chasing Richard after he passes up a few times!
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Old 11-09-2009, 01:03 PM   #6609
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Thats the unit.There's no wiring on the chassis,I stuck everything to the roof of the body with servo tape.I cut off the 9volt plug that it came with and installed a plug off an old servo and I plug it directly into the aux position on my receiver,battery draw is minimal.
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Old 11-09-2009, 01:54 PM   #6610
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thanks for the info. I may need to use a Y splitter then as all my slots are taken right now, though, I probably don't need a fan and heatsink combo on my motor for VTA I am thinking?

Definitely give that a look!
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Old 11-09-2009, 03:07 PM   #6611
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If you are running a 21.5 and you are within Spec FDR you won't have to worry about heat.
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Old 11-09-2009, 05:31 PM   #6612
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Here you go

Just set this one up tonight!
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:04 PM   #6613
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How long do you think it will be before someone shows up with a topless Barbie doll?
Halfway there:



And Barbie's little helpers:
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:13 AM   #6614
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If you are running a 21.5 and you are within Spec FDR you won't have to worry about heat.

if you are running 1st gen havok u will need fans or run 4.5FDR...eventhough u shouldnt have 2 ...the new havok pro is a whole lot better
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Old 11-15-2009, 12:27 PM   #6615
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friday nights fun vta in Idaho at dewey hobbies
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