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Old 09-29-2009, 08:09 AM   #6376
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robk-

The spacers I was mentioning are the wheelbase spacers on the hinge pin itself, not the roll center ones (sorry, I don't know the actual terms for them).

I'll give changing my droop a try. I'm not sure on the caster blocks, I'll have to check on them. As for rear toe in, it's a X 2.0, so that's 2* right?

It has some initial turn, but always seems to go wide toward the opposite rail within the turn.

I'll also take out those washers lifting the front inner camber links per your advice and see what that does for me.

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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
The rear tower on the front increases the shock angle for side bite. It creates better initial steering. Moving the shock inboard and laying it down actually softens its reaction. I run 40 wt oil and 2 hole pistons in the front. I sauce half the front tire and test. If its too much traction I go to 1/4. By your description of sauce, you should have a ton of steering. If its pushing still, increase camber a half degree or try a lighter front spring, like silver.

How much negative camber? I personally like -1.5*. It give a nice contact patch.
I'm running about 1.5* as is in the front. I was at 2* but the inner most third of the tires were wearing harshly.

So I should run the rear towers in the front, or just try the inner lower hole up front to start with??

Quote:
Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
I've seen a few good suggestions for resolving your problem, but another area to think about would be adjusting your braking points going into a turn. Sometimes a car will push if its driven into a turn too hard - maybe you could back off on the total amount of braking power (which will allow you to hit the brakes harder until you learn to modulate them) and brake going into the turn. As the saying goes - slow in, fast out...

Otherwise, I'd look to make sure that your rear differential works as freely as possible (without slipping), or possibly adding a rear sway bar (start with a thinner bar, and work your way up if necessary).
Do you suggest running drag brakes or manual braking as the better choice, or both?

Thanks again!
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:25 AM   #6377
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Originally Posted by clunker View Post
I'm running about 1.5* as is in the front. I was at 2* but the inner most third of the tires were wearing harshly.

So I should run the rear towers in the front, or just try the inner lower hole up front to start with??
Try leaning them in first. I had a spare rear tower and tried it after seeing a Mike Haynes setup. I also went to the silver front springs to soften it a bit. 2* is too high. The sweet spot is between 1 and 1.5 degrees. Having too much camber gain will cause the tire to over rotate to the inside and take the car out of optimum contact. The flatter the bottom of the chassis stays in cornering, the less you need camber gain.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:26 AM   #6378
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The physical motor timing was set in the center of whatever Novak's ring is. Compared to a new unopened 21.5ss the ring is in the same place. It was never changed from beginning to end, only the speedo timing.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:28 AM   #6379
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Originally Posted by clunker View Post
Do you suggest running drag brakes or manual braking as the better choice, or both?

Thanks again!
Drag brakes will work, but they have a tendency towards causing unnecessary motor heat. It's better to turn down the total amount of brakes available manually, and work the brakes yourself. I thought it would be tough to learn, but eventually I got the hang of it. My speedo is programmed to provide full brake, but the endpoint on the controller is set to roughly 35-40%. This way, I can slam on the brakes without upsetting the car, brake towards the apex, and nail the throttle on exit...


Quote:
Originally Posted by clunker View Post
It has some initial turn, but always seems to go wide toward the opposite rail within the turn...
The rear swaybar will help prevent the car from washing out mid-corner...
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:42 AM   #6380
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Originally Posted by Dondor View Post
The physical motor timing was set in the center of whatever Novak's ring is. Compared to a new unopened 21.5ss the ring is in the same place. It was never changed from beginning to end, only the speedo timing.
OK, that's cool, should be right around zero.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:42 AM   #6381
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So assuming I stick with a front shock tower for now, which holes should I use for the shock tower and the arm? The inner hole on the arm and which on top?

Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Try leaning them in first. I had a spare rear tower and tried it after seeing a Mike Haynes setup. I also went to the silver front springs to soften it a bit. 2* is too high. The sweet spot is between 1 and 1.5 degrees. Having too much camber gain will cause the tire to over rotate to the inside and take the car out of optimum contact. The flatter the bottom of the chassis stays in cornering, the less you need camber gain.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:44 AM   #6382
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Originally Posted by clunker View Post
So assuming I stick with a front shock tower for now, which holes should I use for the shock tower and the arm? The inner hole on the arm and which on top?
The inner most hole.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:51 AM   #6383
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The inner most hole.
Does the same hold true for rear traction? Inner top and bottom for shocks?
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:15 AM   #6384
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Does the same hold true for rear traction? Inner top and bottom for shocks?
The tops I have on the middle hole on top, outer on the bottom. The more you can stand up the rear the better traction during acceleration you will have. I keep them at 1.5* camber all the time with the out of the box toe in. I did move the spacers in the rear arm to the rear to shorten the wheel base which gives me better side to side on shorter technical tracks.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:22 AM   #6385
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Hey guys. Here is the link to some of the pictures I took at the Music City Championship at the Cool Springs Raceway. I will be uploading more, but here you can have a look. Later on they will be on RC50.com in better resolution, as soon as Dirla can get to them.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=fc5bd8d003
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:38 AM   #6386
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you the BOMB!
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:33 AM   #6387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
The tops I have on the middle hole on top, outer on the bottom. The more you can stand up the rear the better traction during acceleration you will have. I keep them at 1.5* camber all the time with the out of the box toe in. I did move the spacers in the rear arm to the rear to shorten the wheel base which gives me better side to side on shorter technical tracks.
I've been following clunker's posts and yours and I'm thinking maybe I could use one or two of those changes too. I have a little bit of the same trouble on my TC4. Next time I see you at RCP (Thur?) I'll have to take a look at your TC3 and compare your settings to my TC4.
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:36 AM   #6388
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Originally Posted by redmike76 View Post
I've been following clunker's posts and yours and I'm thinking maybe I could use one or two of those changes too. I have a little bit of the same trouble on my TC4. Next time I see you at RCP (Thur?) I'll have to take a look at your TC3 and compare your settings to my TC4.
No problem. I should be there Thursday for racing.
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:27 PM   #6389
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:54 PM   #6390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
Drag brakes will work, but they have a tendency towards causing unnecessary motor heat. It's better to turn down the total amount of brakes available manually, and work the brakes yourself. I thought it would be tough to learn, but eventually I got the hang of it. My speedo is programmed to provide full brake, but the endpoint on the controller is set to roughly 35-40%. This way, I can slam on the brakes without upsetting the car, brake towards the apex, and nail the throttle on exit...
Ok, so I run a Novak ESC w/reverse and although it's a racer, I like having the delayed reverse. If I adjust my EPA on the radio, I assume it will also effect the reverse (which 40% is fine - I just like to back out of crashes during practice and when there's no marshall there). Will the REV throttle EPA then also tone down the brakes, or do I need to turn off reverse on the ESC to make that work?
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