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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing

Old 09-17-2009, 03:02 PM
  #6211  
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Originally Posted by svt-racer
At our local track, we banned the Tekin RS from the VTA class for obvious reasons. Everybody stayed away from it in the spirit of the class. Sooner or later, somebody will show up with one, and we will have to deal with it somehow. Just don't know how yet.
If they have a tekin just tell them to turn the boost off. Once the boost is turned off the speeds of all the ESC's are close other then the GTB as it doesnt have any Timing advance. The USVTA(Rob King) is working on some rules to fix this issue and level the field back down along with slowing the cars down.
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Old 09-17-2009, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by svt-racer
Everybody stayed away from it in the spirit of the class. Sooner or later, somebody will show up with one, and we will have to deal with it somehow.
Actually someone did have one in VTA this season. I don't think they had the boost on but it was there. I saw it at the last points race.

I would like to know what the "fix" is going to be sooner rather than later. I bought what I needed to compete in VTA (2s lipos, 21.5 novak, etc.) within the rules, and less than 6 months later there is talk of changing the battery and/or powertrain combos. It doesn't make sense to me (personally) to have to re-invest in 1s lipos and/or a new motor. If the rules force me to change my complete set up that I just bought then I'll jump up to 17.5 where I know whatever I buy is going to be good for more than one summer series.
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Old 09-18-2009, 01:24 AM
  #6213  
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Originally Posted by robk
Had a pretty good day of testing today. We went in a different direction than I have been talking about.

*After thinking about it, my theme lately has been "turn that s*** down!!" By that i mean reduce the boost, timing advance, etc. This worked remarkably well. After playing around, it looks like an SPX on profile 1 runs about the same as 10* advance on the other controllers. We put 10* on a SpeedPassion 1.1 and a Tekin RS, and the speeds down the straight were almost identical. No turbo boost was used, only 10* of advance. The motors were maxed out on physical timing. The cars were very, very close on speed on all parts of the track.

I want to try this with KO, Novak, other lrps, but I think this may wind up being a very good solution. I recommend you give this a try to see if it works for you.

*We tried several different FDRs. The strangest part about this was that the cars actually stayed at the same lap time or got faster. It actually turned out that it helped with the timing situation, as it illustrated that the LRP had some timing even on the #1 setting. The LRP gained an advantage as we went numerically higher on the FDR when the SP was set to 0* timing.

The other thing was that while the cars were slower on the straight, they picked up a lot of time in the infield as we went up on gear. I think that's why the difference in ESCs becomes obvious as you go to larger tracks, especially asphalt. The advantage is pronounced there.

The FDR may change, if it will slow things down without having to chage batteries or motors.
Originally Posted by JKRacing37
Actually someone did have one in VTA this season. I don't think they had the boost on but it was there. I saw it at the last points race.

I would like to know what the "fix" is going to be sooner rather than later. I bought what I needed to compete in VTA (2s lipos, 21.5 novak, etc.) within the rules, and less than 6 months later there is talk of changing the battery and/or powertrain combos. It doesn't make sense to me (personally) to have to re-invest in 1s lipos and/or a new motor. If the rules force me to change my complete set up that I just bought then I'll jump up to 17.5 where I know whatever I buy is going to be good for more than one summer series.
I hope this is good enough for you.
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Old 09-18-2009, 05:27 AM
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It sucks that the 1s lipo didnt hit the market about a year and a half sooner. It would have helped the options out a lot.
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Old 09-18-2009, 05:54 AM
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just wondering if we have a release date for the thicker cuda body's

i seen one in person we put it on the scale its around 30g heavier but looks to be way more durable

and if your worried about 30g ..u probily dont have the VTA "spirit" if your chasing weight
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Old 09-18-2009, 06:56 AM
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Hi all. I have a couple noob questions for all you VTA gurus.

1) How do you read the timing marks on a Novak Ballistic motor? As in what do the individual incremental marks mean degree wise?

2) Should I adjust the timing on my motor? Will advancing it give me any more speed? I've heard differing opinions and want to know what fellow VTA guys think.
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by robk
I hope this is good enough for you.
Well, I don't think it matters what is "good enough" for me, I just wanted to know the rules changes as soon as possible so I can decide to race either VTA or 17.5 for the winter season. I saw a lot of discussion of different motors and differnet batteries (17.5 and one cell lipo comes to mind) and my line of thought was if I had to buy a 17.5 motor anyway, I'll cut my losses and stick with the batteries I have and race 17.5.

FWIW - IMO - if it's just going to be a gearing change that is great.
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by JKRacing37
Well, I don't think it matters what is "good enough" for me, I just wanted to know the rules changes as soon as possible so I can decide to race either VTA or 17.5 for the winter season. I saw a lot of discussion of different motors and differnet batteries (17.5 and one cell lipo comes to mind) and my line of thought was if I had to buy a 17.5 motor anyway, I'll cut my losses and stick with the batteries I have and race 17.5.

FWIW - IMO - if it's just going to be a gearing change that is great.
I think you missed the posts stating that nothing was going to change for the upcoming carpet season. I suppose if the changes are very minor Rob may implement them sooner... but I doubt it.
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:26 AM
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I'm all for profile matching and detuning ESCs so no one has to buy new gear. You tell me where to set that SP 1.1 and I'll get it done. It'll be interesting detuning to the level of a Havoc, but in the name of fairness I will.

My car STUNK last night. I guess I should work on the setup. Slipping front diff is very bad.
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064
I'm all for profile matching and detuning ESCs so no one has to buy new gear. You tell me where to set that SP 1.1 and I'll get it done. It'll be interesting detuning to the level of a Havoc, but in the name of fairness I will.

My car STUNK last night. I guess I should work on the setup. Slipping front diff is very bad.
John....set the timing to #3 on the setting box....thats what me and rob found is comparable to LRP SPX #1 and Tekin at 10deg with no boost.....with 5.5 FDR
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin K
John....set the timing to #3 on the setting box....thats what me and rob found is comparable to LRP SPX #1 and Tekin at 10deg with no boost.....with 5.5 FDR
I'm all over it. What about the motor timing? Leave it?
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Old 09-18-2009, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by clunker
Hi all. I have a couple noob questions for all you VTA gurus.

1) How do you read the timing marks on a Novak Ballistic motor? As in what do the individual incremental marks mean degree wise?

2) Should I adjust the timing on my motor? Will advancing it give me any more speed? I've heard differing opinions and want to know what fellow VTA guys think.
Originally Posted by liljohn1064
I'm all over it. What about the motor timing? Leave it?
I'm also curious about motor timing. Anyone have any useful input to share?
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Old 09-18-2009, 01:57 PM
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In the most recent testing, we just cranked motor timing as we assumed everyone would do this anyway. Also, it is available to everyone.

Reduced motor timing seems to work better when boost and/or a lot of speedo timing comes into play. At 10* on the speedo, max was just fine.
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Old 09-18-2009, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by robk
In the most recent testing, we just cranked motor timing as we assumed everyone would do this anyway. Also, it is available to everyone.

Reduced motor timing seems to work better when boost and/or a lot of speedo timing comes into play. At 10* on the speedo, max was just fine.
That's easy enough. Thanks Rob.
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Old 09-18-2009, 02:12 PM
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Sorry for the questions, but I'm still very new to all this. Specifically, I'm running a Sphere TC set at setting #4, and physical timing is at factory 0. Should I adjust the physical motor timing one way or the other, and for that matter is setting 4 around where I should be? It's a pretty short and technical track.

Thanks again.

Originally Posted by robk
In the most recent testing, we just cranked motor timing as we assumed everyone would do this anyway. Also, it is available to everyone.

Reduced motor timing seems to work better when boost and/or a lot of speedo timing comes into play. At 10* on the speedo, max was just fine.
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