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Old 03-11-2009, 02:00 PM   #4441
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Originally Posted by dsm View Post
Have yall checked out HPI new 1967 Corvette( Kit #100423)
FAIL.

j/k It was posted some pages back. nice looking lid but just not legal for usvta.



...more FAIL pics here: failblog.org funny ¢hit.

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Old 03-11-2009, 02:43 PM   #4442
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The two Bolink bodies have been added to the list of legal bodies, and the most recent tracks that were submitted have been added to the Tracks listing. Sorry for the delays in getting the site updated—too many irons in the fire lately.


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Old 03-11-2009, 03:17 PM   #4443
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Just thought that I would throw a interesting scenerio in about people not having the latest electronics. I race TA every week and also ran the great lakes super series put on by Rob King and Kevin Kane; hats off to these two guys for doing a great job of promoting this exciting class. My personal TA car is a 007 with all of the latest gear, very happy with its performance and in my opinion tuned pretty well. I also have a loaner TA car that I bring to my local club races for anyone to try out before they jump into TA with their own gear. The loaner car is a losi xxx-s, 21.5 novak, orion 2400 20c, lrp AI speedo, and plenty of bumps and briuses. I make a point to make sure that the car is in good mechanical shape, set droop and so on, but there is nothing fancy or aftermarket at all on this lead sled. I took a day last week to try to tune it to the best of my knowledge to see how close to my 007 I could get. On a track that I have turned hundreds of laps on I was able to come with in 4 tenths of my best times with my 007. The interesting part is that the electronics and battery are a much lower grade, the car is much heavier and the speedo has fixed timing. I know some people will say that 4 tenths is a lot and I would agree, however for most people at the tracks that I have traveled to, this car would have been more than competitive and also quite durable. No this car is by no means a national contender, but for almost everyone, spending more time learning your chassis is the most important part of making a efficient and consistant TA car. Good racing to all!

Kris Poloncak
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:58 AM   #4444
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed View Post
The two Bolink bodies have been added to the list of legal bodies, and the most recent tracks that were submitted have been added to the Tracks listing. Sorry for the delays in getting the site updated—too many irons in the fire lately.


d
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Old 03-12-2009, 08:21 AM   #4445
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On a track that I have turned hundreds of laps on I was able to come with in 4 tenths of my best times with my 007. The interesting part is that the electronics and battery are a much lower grade, the car is much heavier and the speedo has fixed timing.
Thanks for that specific info Kris. Managing the venues here in chicago I get racers who are thinking about switching to running TA and just about everyone one of them asks what's the difference between racing with less costly BL/Lipo gear and the upper end equipment. Meaning they want to know how much they might have to spend to be competitive. Your info is good to know.
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Old 03-12-2009, 11:05 PM   #4446
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Set up question....

not sure if this is the best place to ask but we will see.

Lets start with im setup STUPID...

second LOL...

im running an xray t2 and this is what i do know.

My ride height and droop is close to being correct. im running 27 1/2 all the way around. 12lb in the rear 14 or 15 in the front... i tried stiffer fronts my problem got worse...

now my problem was... i enter a fast section too fast the car almost IMMEDIATELY spins out.... i enter tooo slow.. its really lose. BUT if i went around about 1/4 to half throttle it stuck... but was slow.

Any idea what causes this ???

Thanks ahead of time
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Old 03-13-2009, 04:00 AM   #4447
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Originally Posted by OWTKAST cpt View Post
Set up question....

not sure if this is the best place to ask but we will see.

Lets start with im setup STUPID...

second LOL...

im running an xray t2 and this is what i do know.

My ride height and droop is close to being correct. im running 27 1/2 all the way around. 12lb in the rear 14 or 15 in the front... i tried stiffer fronts my problem got worse...

now my problem was... i enter a fast section too fast the car almost IMMEDIATELY spins out.... i enter tooo slow.. its really lose. BUT if i went around about 1/4 to half throttle it stuck... but was slow.

Any idea what causes this ???

Thanks ahead of time
Are you running a oneway?

FRNT:
.5 toe out
4degree caster
forward akerman at post
outside hole on steering block
3rd hole out upper shock mnt hole
40wt oil 3hole and 2 hole really preference
1.5mm wheel hexes to equal tire width frnt and rear
lower inside camber link position
frnt top deck posts removed
white frnt springs
outside lower shock mnt at arm
1 degree of camber
1.2 sway on (EU edition)
REAR:
1degree rear uprights
shocks layed down
30 wt oil
3 hole pistons
outside hole at arm
1.3 sway on (EU edition)
1.5 to 2 degrees camber
yellow springs
rear topdeck posts removed

You can also run white springs all the way around on this setup.....There is a thread "vta setup for T2 007" on page 4 you can look at...

A one way can have that effect on a car not setup for it....
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:07 AM   #4448
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What spur gear are most of the tc3 guys usin with the 21.5? I know the yokomo sd is close to the same. The 103 64p is way to big to get the fdr I need. Was lookin at a 73 or so. What you guys think?
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:09 AM   #4449
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Originally Posted by DHMOTORSPORTS View Post
What spur gear are most of the tc3 guys usin with the 21.5? I know the yokomo sd is close to the same. The 103 64p is way to big to get the fdr I need. Was lookin at a 73 or so. What you guys think?
I'm using an 88.
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:54 AM   #4450
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Originally Posted by NUCRPTRACER View Post
Are you running a oneway?

FRNT:
.5 toe out
4degree caster
forward akerman at post
outside hole on steering block
3rd hole out upper shock mnt hole
40wt oil 3hole and 2 hole really preference
1.5mm wheel hexes to equal tire width frnt and rear
lower inside camber link position
frnt top deck posts removed
white frnt springs
outside lower shock mnt at arm
1 degree of camber
1.2 sway on (EU edition)
REAR:
1degree rear uprights
shocks layed down
30 wt oil
3 hole pistons
outside hole at arm
1.3 sway on (EU edition)
1.5 to 2 degrees camber
yellow springs
rear topdeck posts removed

You can also run white springs all the way around on this setup.....There is a thread "vta setup for T2 007" on page 4 you can look at...

A one way can have that effect on a car not setup for it....
Thanks... ill go over that stuff....

I dont have the one way in right now....
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Old 03-13-2009, 11:41 AM   #4451
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hey guys, i'm a big offroad nitro fan but i'm looking to get into the USVTA racing, but have no idea where to start. I have no experience with on-road or electric really, i would like to know the easiest way to get into it, by easiest I mean cheapest. i'm looking for something that really just needs a new body and is legal to race, i can tune it myself, I just need the car that will get me into it the fastest and cheapest
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Old 03-13-2009, 12:24 PM   #4452
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If the track you will be racing at regularly has a good TA turnout I'd ask the guys you'd be racing against before I went out and bought what was needed for TA. Most likely amongst that group of people one of them will have a turnkey or close to turnkey TA solution for you. That's what happens at our track.
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:09 PM   #4453
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Location: I live in the middle of nowhere. A place where we have roughly 0 nitro tracks, on or off road. All we have is flat grass and open corn fields, sometimes it's not even fun to bash there anymore.
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problem is i dont have a track around here, i'm in springfield illinois and we dont have crap. but i have alot of brand new open parking lots to run in and i just want something to get me to where i need to be so if i go to a track up north i will have something to run, i know it sounds stupid but thats where i'm at right now.
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:22 PM   #4454
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One of the great things about VTA is how easy it is to get in to.

I bought a used TC4 rolling chassis, ESC, battery, and a servo from a friend for fairly cheap. I put a 21.5 motor in it, then I just had to buy a body and tires. After that you only have to worry about getting the car set up and the occasional part if you break any.

So, the stuff from my friend totaled roughly $275. It is mostly higher-end equipment though, Sphere ESC, Orion LiPo battery, and KO Propo servo (not saying that it is necessary, just pointing out the price reasoning). Then around $60 for 4 brand new tires and rims, paint, and a body.

Spending less than $350 to get involved in ANY RC class is a great deal. So my advice is to find someone who will part with good-but-used equipment and work from there.

To reiterate, you definitely WILL NOT need the electronics-of-the-week to have fun and be competitive. That's why this class can really only cost as much as you want to put into it!

Of course, since you mentioned being a nitro guy, chances are you won't have a LiPo charger or anything, but you can always "borrow" one from a friend who will charge your batteries for you until you can get your own. Also, people will often be more than happy to help you get a setup going, let you use their setup boards, etc. I haven't met EVERY VTA racer in the country, but I also haven't met one that wasn't helpful and willing to get a new racer into the class.
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:27 PM   #4455
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Originally Posted by murdermode View Post
problem is i dont have a track around here, i'm in springfield illinois and we dont have crap. but i have alot of brand new open parking lots to run in and i just want something to get me to where i need to be so if i go to a track up north i will have something to run, i know it sounds stupid but thats where i'm at right now.
Check out jtecracing.com they are in danville. That's where I race every week. Its a good turnout in vta everyweek.
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