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Old 09-18-2008, 05:49 AM   #2461
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Excellent write-up! I made print outs to show to some friends that are showing interest in getting into RC racing. Isn't it funny how it takes something that's a tribute to the PAST to make a hugh impact on the future? Vintage TA is the way!
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Amen! I'm going to start rebuilding my TC3.
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Great article Scottrik. Who ever out there is racing VTA you should download this article and send it to your friends that RC race or thinking about getting into this hobby.
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Yes, very good article on USVTA! Very much looking forward to getting my T/A car up and rolling!
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Great article! It really captures the philosophy of USVTA well.
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Nice job... well done, Scott.
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very well writen
Thanks for the kind reviews guys. When Mark asked me to do the article I had NO idea it would take up as much time as it did. Nor any idea it would be as long as it ended up being. In both cases, though, I thought it important to share the why's and wherefore's as to the premises this class was created under. A lot of people don't agree with this or that aspect of the class but really don't understand that there is very little included (or excluded) from the class that is happenstance...pretty much all these elements are there (or not) for very specific reasons and were, at one point or another, a subject of discussion as to why or why not.

My hope is that with everything "on paper", so to speak, that we can all try to understand that even if we don't personally agree with this element or that decision that we can set aside these comparatively minor quibbles and work together to grow this excellent class. Hopefully you've also got the answers now so that when a naysayer in your group is making waves about this or that you can answer the criticism and explain the philosophy behind what and why we are doing what we're doing.

Here's to the continued success of Vintage Trans-Am!! I am excited to see what the NEXT year brings us.
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:53 AM   #2462
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Scott, I had a chance to read your article yesterday and saw some things written in it that I had recently echoed to a local racer who was trying to twist and turn the rules, it makes for an excellent explanation of what is trying to be accomplished with that class, keep up the great work!
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Old 09-18-2008, 07:21 AM   #2463
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Yes, GREAT ARTICLE and will be a MUST READ for our vintage program!!!!

You covered all the bases on this one brah.....
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Old 09-18-2008, 11:39 AM   #2464
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Ok, I just want to clarify a few things because there seems to ba a little confusion on the USVTA rules, and people now are asking a LOT of questions that I never thought would (or should) need clarification. Sorry for the lengthy post, but I seem to be getting the same questions asked over and over again...


WINGS & SPOILERS
First, all decklid-mounted touring car-style "wings" are not allowed at all, on any car, no matter the fact that they are included with the bodies.

Second, spoilers or "lip" spoilers are legal for every car available. That means that even though the Mustangs don't include spoilers, you can use one of the spoilers from either the 'Cuda or the Camaro and be perfectly legal. The photos in the gallery are from a series in Florida that wasn't at the time using USVTA rules (hence the pan car with the 'Cuda body in a few shots). There were a few Mustangs using home-made spoilers. In my opinion, and by the "Spirit of the Rules," making a 3/8" spoiler that is identical in size to the 'Cuda or Camaro included spoilers is perfectly legal.

Though, keep in mind that there were at least 3 Mustangs in the top 10 cars, and none of them had a spoiler. You really don't need them to be fast—they really are only for appearance more than anything else. They may provide a little rear plant, but nothing you can't fix with chassis setup changes.


21.5 BRUSHLESS MOTORS
Yes, you are ONLY allowed to use the Novak 21.5 brushless motor with the LiPo option. Not the crawler motor, not a Tekin, Trinity, Speed Passion, Reedy or any other 21.5 motor. The 21.5 motor rule is not going to change anytime soon unless ROAR begins to list 21.5s in their approval process for oval racing. This is a hard and fast rule that isn't going to bend at all until there is a major sanctioning control of the manufacturing processes and materials. Again, if you are partial to one brand of motors, the 17.5 class is wide open to ROAR approved brushless motors, and there are still plenty of 27t brushed motors still out there. Consider the 21.5/LiPo formula a spec option that isn't really open to debate at this point.


BODY SELECTION
For what it's worth, over the last year of racing indoors and outdoors, there has been no noticeable handling or performance difference between any of the legal bodies. Repeating... they ALL handle the same—race what you like the best. There are definitive options that are more durable or weigh more, but performance-wise, they are all very similar to the everyday racer.


TIRE TREAD RULES
For asphalt racing, the tire tread rules are a bit looser because of wear. Obviously, the use of slicks or tires that have become slicks is not allowed.

For carpet, all treads must be visible across the tire width. Obvious attempts at grinding the tread away are prohibited.

What has been found though, is that a heavily worn tire is actually detrimental in many instances, as the car starts to traction roll. With the high CG of these bodies, more traction isn't always a good thing. In the case of this class, these tires out of the bag usually provide as much or more traction than anyone would need.


BETTER CHASSIS, MOTORS, BATTERIES, ESCs
This class is not—and never will be—a difference of the "haves" and "have-nots." If you are getting whooped on every week, it has nothing to do with the car you own, or the motor you bought, or the quality of your batteries. It has to do with either or both of two variables—your car setup (which is entirely possible but not a deal breaker) or your driving skills. In 9 out of 10 instances, a properly set up car with a very good driver will always be in the hunt at the end of the race.

A driver with inconsistent lines, impatience in traffic and a general lack of consistency will NEVER be fast in Trans Am until he or she learns what truly makes you fast. It's not how much money you spend, either.


ALL RULES QUESTIONS
In every case, it's up to the race officials, track owner and/or promoter to determine if someone is intentionally trying to circumvent rules or is inadvertently overlooking or breaking them. Most of us at the front of this class have been doing this long enough to know when someone is trying to one-up the rest. Use your best judgment, and if everyone knows the rules ahead of time, there shouldn't be any issues.




Hope this helps somewhat as we begin to head indoors for a new season of carpet racing.




doug
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Old 09-18-2008, 11:59 AM   #2465
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There are definitive options that are more durable or weigh more, but performance-wise, they are all very similar to the everyday racer.
I found this to be true on the cuda shell. It handles just like the Camaro, but the Camaro takes a much better pounding. I think the lexan on the Cuda nose gets thinner with the fairly deep undercuts. I wouldnt change it though, it looks great.

For me the Cuda shells have been easier to find on LHS shelves.
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Old 09-18-2008, 12:11 PM   #2466
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I found this to be true on the cuda shell. It handles just like the Camaro, but the Camaro takes a much better pounding. I think the lexan on the Cuda nose gets thinner with the fairly deep undercuts. I wouldnt change it though, it looks great.
And I did find that the Cuda is actually a bit lighter than the Camaro, too, even with front end "Bondo."
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Old 09-18-2008, 12:50 PM   #2467
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I noticed that in the doors that it seemes lighter. I wonder if they pull them from the same thickness lexan.
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Old 09-18-2008, 12:58 PM   #2468
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hey you still got my sheet from my 'cuda
yes
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Old 09-18-2008, 01:25 PM   #2469
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Hello, guys, love the class, we do not have any locally, One of your fellow racers said I should stop over at this site and do a post, he said it is hard finding the decals you need at a good price, I have a post in the classified, But will quickly post here, I do vinyl work, I will do a two color numbers for your car shpped for $5.25 per set, I prefer to do mutlipe items at 1 time, I can do some vitage graphics as well as bf goodrich and goodyear decals and masks. Here is a picture of proof number I did for a racer.
Email me or pm me, I work dirt cheap as well. I just enjoy doing the work, and helping fellow racers out. Email me for pics or questions.
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Old 09-18-2008, 03:27 PM   #2470
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JDob, take a look at the PRS spurs and pinions, they mounted up on the HotBodies cyclone quite nicely...

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0

As far as figuring out a combination you can feel free to use this:
http://cell.sixfoottiger.com/

Something I put together for the guys locally to use on their cell phones on race day, just a couple of really simple calculators to help with these crazy gear rations...

I did yours real quick and came up with a 86 / 43 would get you to a 4.3FDR (the Sprints transmission is 2.13)
Thanks for the info - I will have to check out PRS and see what they have got...Also the Six Foot Tiger calculator is AWESOME! Thanks!
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:48 PM   #2471
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If it is alright with you, I'll try and answer the PROFESSORS question.

Comparatively, the typical Tamiya Mini runs the silver 540. Where I race, we have a large Mini contigent over the past 12 years or so. Several of the Mini guys have been experimenting with B/L motors. They have found that a Novak 17.5 B/L is faster than the silver 540 and the 21.5 Noval B/L is very similar in speed to a well tuned silver 540. This is with Lipo 7.4 volt batteries.

The mini is a gearing limited chassis.

We run the USVTA rules for Trans-Am. The 4 cell 17.5 B/L with unlimited (track layout dictated) gearing is very similar in speed and lap time to a Lipo 21.5 B/L T/A car. A 4 cell well tuned 27 turn brush motored T/A car is right in the same ball park for speed and lap times. No one in my area has run a 6 cell or Lipo 540 T/A car, but I imagine it would be a very similar speed as the Lipo 21.5 Lipo.

I hope that helps. Does anyone else have more specific information to help graham out?

Marty
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:54 PM   #2472
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well finally just about done on my car (IFSR). yeh doug i think i'm gonna run it (granted til perhaps a tb03R comes out). only afford brushed right now, no bread for BL system and big lipo. but thats okay.

people just need to read the rules, set up the car go run and have fun. similar to what a gentlement at 1 of the local track threads said. "you need to stop tryin to make a class where you can win". just have fun.

R
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Old 09-18-2008, 07:21 PM   #2473
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Speed Passion Endless Sensored ESC - $110 (RCMart)
21.5 BL motor - $80 (any hobby shop)
Yeah Racing 3200 lipo - $36.99 or 2 for $69.99 (RCMart)

Totoal - $227 and almost zero maintenance.

That's one hell of a price for a brushless setup.

I believe LRP also has a low cost BL ESC called the Ai.
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Old 09-18-2008, 09:30 PM   #2474
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Speed Passion Endless Sensored ESC - $110 (RCMart)
21.5 BL motor - $80 (any hobby shop)
Yeah Racing 3200 lipo - $36.99 or 2 for $69.99 (RCMart)

Totoal - $227 and almost zero maintenance.

That's one hell of a price for a brushless setup.

I believe LRP also has a low cost BL ESC called the Ai.
I don't believe any of the Yeah racing lipos are ROAR cert. SO if you track requires it your SOL. I got my ORION 3800 carbon edition for about $80
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Old 09-19-2008, 05:05 AM   #2475
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The Core 7.4V 3250 MAH LIPO PACK is on the ROAR list...
http://www.roarracing.com/approvals/lipobattery.php

And I believe that it is a rebranded Yeah Racing pack...
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=1660
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