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Old 07-10-2008, 04:13 PM   #1531
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Anyone know if there is any intention of making the HPI Pantera body legal?
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Old 07-10-2008, 04:38 PM   #1532
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Anyone know if there is any intention of making the HPI Pantera body legal?
No, that car was a post-"pony car" era Trans Am racer. It won't be allowed in this class.
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Old 07-11-2008, 01:11 PM   #1533
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I've always enjoyed painting bodies more than racing them. Before I destory these bodies too much (The "pink" 'Cuda is already there) I figured I'd take a picture of them.
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Old 07-11-2008, 01:47 PM   #1534
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Very nice Mopars!
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:33 AM   #1535
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Just getting back into the hobby. I have an Xray T2 008 EU spec on the way.

I want to run the 21.5 brushless/lipo combo. Need advice on an ESC.

The one I'm considering is the Castle Creation Sidewinder 1/10.

Any opinion? Does running a sensored motor with a non sensor esc make a huge difference?
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:36 AM   #1536
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Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
Just getting back into the hobby. I have an Xray T2 008 EU spec on the way.

I want to run the 21.5 brushless/lipo combo. Need advice on an ESC.

The one I'm considering is the Castle Creation Sidewinder 1/10.

Any opinion? Does running a sensored motor with a non sensor esc make a huge difference?
it will have a very hard time running that high of a wind. i suggest the speedpassion LPF
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:47 AM   #1537
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it will have a very hard time running that high of a wind. i suggest the speedpassion LPF

Just trying to learn.
Under the info for ESC it says motors up to 4600Kv and the Novak is only 1800Kv
So could you please explain why so I'm better informed as I shop parts.
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:54 AM   #1538
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Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
Just trying to learn.
Under the info for ESC it says motors up to 4600Kv and the Novak is only 1800Kv
So could you please explain why so I'm better informed as I shop parts.
I tried running a 17.5 motor in my vintage with a sidewinder and it didnt work so well. Due to the high winds of the motor and the lack of the sensor the ESC cant really tell where the rotor is and make the car move foward...in fact there were times the car would try to go backward. The lower turns of the motor allow the speedo to see where the rotor is a little easier. Also with the gearing that we run with the 21.5 and 17.5 motor it makes its just that much harder. If you notice rarely will you see unsensored motors dip below the 4600kv rating (lower the rating the higher the number of winds)
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:54 AM   #1539
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Any opinion? Does running a sensored motor with a non sensor esc make a huge difference?
Yes, a HUGE difference. It won't run properly. Two different animals. You will need an ESC that will run a sensored brushless motor. Look to Novak, LRP, Tekin or any of the companies that manufacture sensored ESCs.
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:03 PM   #1540
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Thanks for the replies. With the prices of the other ESC, I'll have to hold off on the 21.5 and lipos til later
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:04 PM   #1541
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nexus racing has the older speedpassion fiegao on clearance for $115
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:06 PM   #1542
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Thanks for the replies. With the prices of the other ESC, I'll have to hold off on the 21.5 and lipos til later

Can you recommend any Nicads for now.

Before you ask why Nicads, because I have chargers that only work with nicads.

This is just to get my foot back in the door with a reasonable budget
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:08 PM   #1543
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Another advantage to the sensored esc is that IF you get hooked and decide you want to try other classes of racing (ie ROAR classes) you will be required to have a sensored esc/motor. If you KNEW you were only going to bash or race "outlaw" programs (with appropriately "low" wind motors) a non-sensored esc might make sense and save a couple shekels. As it is, though, if you're intending to run "high" wind motors (or MIGHT run ROAR classes some day) you're better of going a bit more and buying a sensored esc.

No need to give up...I see SS series Novak speedos going for decent prices here and on e-Bay. Get a used SS (which would be absolutely fine for VTA) for the same (or less) than your new unsensored esc.
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:14 PM   #1544
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Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
Can you recommend any Nicads for now.

Before you ask why Nicads, because I have chargers that only work with nicads.

This is just to get my foot back in the door with a reasonable budget
Keep in mind that by trying to go "extreme budget" now you are setting yourself up to spend money twice. If you haven't ordered your chassis yet I would STRONGLY advise picking up something less expensive used (even a T2 007) and spend the difference on decent equipment to fettle it with. Unless your last name is Baker or Blackstock you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the two other than your wallet is heavier after you buy it. Hell, a TC5 (even a TC4 FT) you wouldn't be able to tell for the first year or more getting back into the game.

NiMH capable chargers are selling for pennies on the original dollar right now and would have you using batteries that are less fussy than NiCd's ever were (no memory, etc). Many (most?) LiPo chargers are able to charge NiMH (and even NiCd) batteries, so since you intend to go LiPo eventually you should look into one of those.

If you're dead set on NiCd...check Tower. They have several choices at decent prices. BUT, as I said, you'll have set yourself up to spend money twice and that's never a bargain.
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:16 PM   #1545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
Thanks for the replies. With the prices of the other ESC, I'll have to hold off on the 21.5 and lipos til later

Can you recommend any Nicads for now.

Before you ask why Nicads, because I have chargers that only work with nicads.

This is just to get my foot back in the door with a reasonable budget

Ok, then the 21.5/LiPo thing was never a consideration to begin with, because you WILL need a new charger for LiPos. You cannot charge them with a standard charger.

Next, NiCds aren't really used anywhere, for a lot of reasons. I think you can still buy KR1500 Sanyos, but that's not a very smart purchase to go racing with.

Here's the thing about the "cost effective" cheap route. You'll wind up throwing a LOT of good money after bad in this case, because with one charger, one pack and one motor, you can race Trans Am for years and not make an upgrade or change. With a slightly higher entry cost to use LiPo/brushless right now, you'd be well advised to not try to Band-Aid something together with 15 year old technology, just to do it on the "cheap."

Spend the money smart the first time, do it right, and don't regret it in the long run. Worst case scenario is you don't like it and you turn around and sell it all. At least a 21.5 and a decent LiPo pack will have some re-sale value. I can't say the same about a NiCd pack.

You bought a top-shelf, big dollar car. Don't ruin the experience and drop the ball by buying a $50 speedo to run 15-year old batteries that aren't even good enough to power your electric drill.
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