Cole Trickle

I think you'd be most satisfied in the long run, if you get a good start. Therefor I strongly recommend you get the Raycer. Simply because it's easier to make fast, than the Evo II.

At my experience, it's not unsual to spend a year or more to get fast. Okay, it depends on a lot of things like talent, the other guys at the club, how much time you spend, degree of seriousity etc. etc. But I wish for you, you can get as good start as possible, so take the car which is easier to be fast with. Believe me, there's a lot of other things to learn and deal with, than just the chassis.

Another thing, it might not be the issue with the price difference of these two chassis', but you'll need a good charger too, some nice batteries, tires, springs, pinons/spurs, a body, motor, radio gear and a speedo. If your budget is unlimited well, this of course aint an issue. But try sum it up, and it might be an issue.

Hope this helps.

pucho

Some of the HUDY boys ran the R1 at the birds and they didn't look bad at all.

niceCPS

how much is the T1R? and this is a stupid question but is the Raycer and the t1R the same? oh and is $300 canadian dollars a good price for the T1R about $220 american dollars

RBLove

iTrader: (88)

$220.00 for a NEW IN BOX kit is good. Retail is $225.00.

After further testing I believe I like the EVO2 much better. If you don't mind the extra coin go for the Freedom of Choice EVO2. www.teamxray.com

niceCPS

well actually after i calculated the price for a brand new T1R it's 179.00 american dollars.

craziracer

one big reason that some xray factory team drivers changed to the t1 raycer is because xray wanted to sell them faster

Neil Rabara

Well that's only part of it. Xray is trying to cater to the economical hobbyist by giving them a performance car at the not so expensive price. By giving this choice, everyone can choose and put into the car what their wallet allows.

ronster

I just bought the Raycer and havn't ran onroad in about ten years. Does anyone have a good starting setup for carpet? The standard setup from XRay is for asphalt I believe.

JusBox

iTrader: (1)

I just bought a T1 NIB for 175. The original T1, not a bad price considering what they sold for when they came out. I wanted a belt car and you can't go wrong with xray... waiting on the cuda R3 for my shaft drive.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Here's how I have set my T1R up for carpet, and was pretty happy with it:

Front: Stock locations for shocks and camber links
60WT Trinity oil,1 hole open, Red Firm springs
-1 degree camber
4.5mm ride height

Rear: Stock locations for shocks and camber links
60WT Oil, 4 holes open, Purple Springs (2 steps softer, what was the kit front)
-1 degree camber
4.5mm ride height

CS 27 Tires
Front one-way
HB Hara ESC
JR Z750 Servo
Protoform Alfa
Orion 10x1
Orion 3300's

I wish I remembered what the droop was set at, but I don't recall. I want to say using an Associated Gauge, it was 3 front and 5 rear, but that could be my Losi. The car was pretty good. I would have liked a front sway bar, but I have had trouble getting my hands on one. I may have to fabricate one of my own. The car carries a lot of speed, and I am actually going to be using this car in stock as my other chassis is now my Brushless car.

ronster

Thanks a lot Gary, I'll give it a whirl

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

I did also fabricate a .62 front sway bar that I will be testing today. I will let you know how it works. I also have a .47 to try as well.

Neil Rabara

Is that metric or standard?

ronster

.62 inch would be one thick sway bar...

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Standard

I'd like to tell you the car worked well, but as I was setting the trims on my radio, the freaking ESC blew up! I ran my TA04SS instead last night then instead...That car worked really well