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Old 12-27-2007, 09:33 PM   #1
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Default having a little problem with my L4........

I run my car at mikes hobby shop in Carrollton,TX and i have a few problems with my L4.
1. when i turn sometimes the car swings around.
2. the car bounces around the track.
3. when i go full speed the car becomes very unstable but its all balanced out.
i need to fix these problems cause im just tired of dealing with these problems and i just got into on-road so any info i need to know?
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:19 PM   #2
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Here is a very good general guide to 1/12 setup:

http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=112setup

Tires are THE most important element of good handling. On low to medium bite asphalt the tires most racers choose is pink rear and double pink front (Jaco designations).

Other standard asphalt parameters:

1. .063 T-bar, 2 outside screws only on T-bar to rear pod attachment
2. .018 (or .020 for higher traction conditons) front springs, traction compound width to suit conditions
3. 3 to 6 degrees caster, with reactive caster to suit your style and conditions
4. 1 to 1 1/2 degrees camber
5. green or silver center shock spring
6. 25 or 30 wt. center shock oil
7. Uptravel at rear main chassis (lift rear shock mount until tires almost come off ground) about 1 to 2 mm depending on traction. Less uptravel for higher traction conditions.
8. 4mm to 5mm ride height, less ride height for higher traction conditions. Level chassis or SLIGHTLY higher rear when race ready (batteries and motor installed). If traction is very low you may want to put a little sag into the chassis so that the rear of the main chassis is 0.5 to 1 mm lower than the front. This will create more rear traction on exiting corners.

You may want to use CA on the front tire sidewalls to prevent the tires rolling onto the edge and creating excess traction in turns.
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:37 PM   #3
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+1 for Rich Changs setup sheet, very helpfull.

Ask Tim in the hobby shop if all else fails.

Try 0-.5 camber in the front.
Try stiffer front springs.
I like lilac fr and pinks rr sometimes yellows, but thats just me.
Make sure the car is tweaked and watch how much front tire you dope.
What tires are you running?
3.5-4 ride height at the most.


I felt the dust from the indoor offroad track being right behind the carpet had alot to do with the traction there.

I packed up some of my stuff when I had to travel to Richardson, Tx. for a week. I made the short trek every evening to drive my TC. Thats a great hobby shop, Tim is pretty knowledgeable and Mike is a pretty cool guy. I've only been into RC a little over a year but that has to absolutely be one of the best hobbyshops.
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:56 PM   #4
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Well, I assumed the track was asphalt. If carpet:

ldp787 seems very familiar with conditions...listen to his advice. Also, check with local fast guys (asphalt or carpet!) for advice. Most racers are helpful to new (on road) racers and should be able to help guide you.
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Old 12-27-2007, 11:56 PM   #5
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Tim is no longer there. He moved out to Cali. Ask a few of the locals there running 12th scale. All the guys are good guys and willing to help out. You may even want to post on mikes board. Btw, Tim posted a set up sheet for an L4 on Mikes website. You may want to use that as a starting point. Good luck.
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Old 12-28-2007, 01:10 AM   #6
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I'd be more than hapy to help you with your 12l4 anytime I am up there. I usualy practice in te afternoons on Thursday and race all day Saturday. PM me on mike's board or here if you want and I can give you my number to help you out. I am sure we can get you set up well.
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Old 12-28-2007, 12:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Brown View Post
Here is a very good general guide to 1/12 setup:

http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=112setup

Tires are THE most important element of good handling. On low to medium bite asphalt the tires most racers choose is pink rear and double pink front (Jaco designations).

Other standard asphalt parameters:

1. .063 T-bar, 2 outside screws only on T-bar to rear pod attachment
2. .018 (or .020 for higher traction conditons) front springs, traction compound width to suit conditions
3. 3 to 6 degrees caster, with reactive caster to suit your style and conditions
4. 1 to 1 1/2 degrees camber
5. green or silver center shock spring
6. 25 or 30 wt. center shock oil
7. Uptravel at rear main chassis (lift rear shock mount until tires almost come off ground) about 1 to 2 mm depending on traction. Less uptravel for higher traction conditions.
8. 4mm to 5mm ride height, less ride height for higher traction conditions. Level chassis or SLIGHTLY higher rear when race ready (batteries and motor installed). If traction is very low you may want to put a little sag into the chassis so that the rear of the main chassis is 0.5 to 1 mm lower than the front. This will create more rear traction on exiting corners.

You may want to use CA on the front tire sidewalls to prevent the tires rolling onto the edge and creating excess traction in turns.
I think setup number 7 is your issue. Larry is correct that there needs to be some droop (Up travel at rear of main chassis) in the car. Pick up the car by the antenna and sight along the chassis and bottom motor pod plate from the side of the car. The lower motor pod plate should have some droop or like Larry says, "Up travel at rear of main chassis." I would start at about one degree of droop. The reason I say this is that you mentioned that under acceleration the car is undriveable. If there is not droop in the motor pod, when the motor spools up it trying to lift the front tires off of the surface making for a twitchy and therefore, an undrivable car. You can add droop by lengthening the shock from ball cup socket to ball cup socket. I always try and build my shocks so that the shock piston, at rest with the car ready to go on the track, is in the middle of the shock body. This will allow the shock to compress and rebound effectively.

And your right. If you are talking about Tim Copp he has returned to his roots here in California. He will, once again, be a fixture in the California racing scene where he started back in the early eighties!!!
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:11 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
I think setup number 7 is your issue. Larry is correct that there needs to be some droop (Up travel at rear of main chassis) in the car. Pick up the car by the antenna and sight along the chassis and bottom motor pod plate from the side of the car. The lower motor pod plate should have some droop or like Larry says, "Up travel at rear of main chassis." I would start at about one degree of droop. The reason I say this is that you mentioned that under acceleration the car is undriveable. If there is not droop in the motor pod, when the motor spools up it trying to lift the front tires off of the surface making for a twitchy and therefore, an undrivable car. You can add droop by lengthening the shock from ball cup socket to ball cup socket. I always try and build my shocks so that the shock piston, at rest with the car ready to go on the track, is in the middle of the shock body. This will allow the shock to compress and rebound effectively.

And your right. If you are talking about Tim Copp he has returned to his roots here in California. He will, once again, be a fixture in the California racing scene where he started back in the early eighties!!!
Steve that would be the 70s

for Mike's run a stock set up

tires at mikes is the big thing right now
stock try purple front and gray rears
or lilic front and yellow rears

Front tire size:1.65"
Front tire: Purple or Lilic
Sauce:Inside Half Paragon
Front spring: .020"
Front caster: 1 Shim On Each Side
Front camber: 1.5 deg
Lower a-arm: IRS lowered
Degree of reactive caster block: 5 deg
Servo Mounting: Stock Angled
Bump Toe (In, Neutral, Out): 0
Front ride height: 3.5mm
Center ride height: Pod Level
Rear ride height: 3.5mm
Center shock spring: Green
Center shock oil: 30wt
Damper lube: Trinity White grease (if you see a lot of white on the damper plates you have too much on them)
T-Bar size: AE .063"
Shims under T-bar Pivots: 1 under the front of Tbar (see Yang he will know where)
Number of screws to pod (2 or 3): 2
Rear tire size: 1.80"
Rear tire: Grey or Yellow
Sauce: Full Paragon
Body: Speed 8 or speed 12b
Battery location: Back

Hope this helps you out.

Tim
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