Around The Table With Paul Lemieux(RC-America/Thunderpower)
#1051
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
So as you can see, those FDR ratios are WAY out of the normal range that you would think to run in 13.5, and if you ran it with a normal ESC the car would be silly slow on the straight. But with the new ESC's that have a timing boost option, you can run a high FDR to give incredible punch out of the corners without losing any top end speed on the straight.
What ESC/Motor combo are you planning to run?
thanks
#1052
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...5&setup=t2_008
(it's easy to find because it is a featured setup)
Before this one I was running the Cleveland one, which is similar. I find this one even better. The car absolutely loves power. I got to drive it on a larger track with a 6.5t, and it begs you to enter the sweeper faster and hold more power through it.
(it's easy to find because it is a featured setup)
Before this one I was running the Cleveland one, which is similar. I find this one even better. The car absolutely loves power. I got to drive it on a larger track with a 6.5t, and it begs you to enter the sweeper faster and hold more power through it.
#1053
Tech Adept
If you are using an LRP ESC, I would start out with an FDR of 4.5 to 4.8, and leave the ESC in the normal profile. I am pretty sure the LRP aggressive profiles use boost timing. Either way, set up the car and run it, and gear for temps and speed. If you use an aggressive boost mode on the ESC, increase the FDR, and try to keep the temps around 180 after a 6 minute run.
#1054
Tech Adept
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...5&setup=t2_008
(it's easy to find because it is a featured setup)
Before this one I was running the Cleveland one, which is similar. I find this one even better. The car absolutely loves power. I got to drive it on a larger track with a 6.5t, and it begs you to enter the sweeper faster and hold more power through it.
(it's easy to find because it is a featured setup)
Before this one I was running the Cleveland one, which is similar. I find this one even better. The car absolutely loves power. I got to drive it on a larger track with a 6.5t, and it begs you to enter the sweeper faster and hold more power through it.
#1055
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
If you are using an LRP ESC, I would start out with an FDR of 4.5 to 4.8, and leave the ESC in the normal profile. I am pretty sure the LRP aggressive profiles use boost timing. Either way, set up the car and run it, and gear for temps and speed. If you use an aggressive boost mode on the ESC, increase the FDR, and try to keep the temps around 180 after a 6 minute run.
#1056
Tech Adept
I noticed in the xray set up that the oil weights are 300 anf 500.Is this equiv to 30 and 50 in assoc oil??
#1060
Tech Adept
Start with the stock timing (which shouldn't be 0 I would not think?) and go from there. The more timing you use, the more speed, but it will get a lot hotter. Less timing needs a lower FDR, more timing needs a higher FDR. At least that is how it seems to work in practice for me
#1062
Tech Regular
Hi Paul
I'm after a bit of advice - I'm in need of some new LiPo cells, and very tempted by the Trinity ones....
Basically, I'm looking at either the 3800 35C or the 5000 30C packs. My main competitive racing will be 10.5 outdoor, with occasionally 13.5 indoor (but that's just club racing) - which of the two cells do you think would be best suited to my situation? (Or are there another you'd recommend?)
Many thanks for any advice
Oli Meggitt
I'm after a bit of advice - I'm in need of some new LiPo cells, and very tempted by the Trinity ones....
Basically, I'm looking at either the 3800 35C or the 5000 30C packs. My main competitive racing will be 10.5 outdoor, with occasionally 13.5 indoor (but that's just club racing) - which of the two cells do you think would be best suited to my situation? (Or are there another you'd recommend?)
Many thanks for any advice
Oli Meggitt
#1063
Hi Paul,
I ran your setup from the Snow Birds on my T2'009 for 17.5 rubber and 13.5 rubber, and I have to say, it was DIALED! I didn't actually change anything on the car, and I think I will leave it that way for a while. So far, that is the best setup I have run on my rubber car, by far.
So, now I am about to go outdoors and run some asphalt. Do you have a good setup you can recommend for 13.5 rubber asphalt tracks? I will most likely be racing at Speed World in Sacramento most of the time, so I need to find a good setup for that track....
I ran your setup from the Snow Birds on my T2'009 for 17.5 rubber and 13.5 rubber, and I have to say, it was DIALED! I didn't actually change anything on the car, and I think I will leave it that way for a while. So far, that is the best setup I have run on my rubber car, by far.
So, now I am about to go outdoors and run some asphalt. Do you have a good setup you can recommend for 13.5 rubber asphalt tracks? I will most likely be racing at Speed World in Sacramento most of the time, so I need to find a good setup for that track....
Just to be safe i would start at around a 5.5 for a tight track and check temp from their, 140-160 is acceptible, 175 and more is getting toasty.
Can you post a link to that setup? I ran the one from the Snowbirds but was having trouble with the rear end dumping over and unloading the inside rear wheel. So I am wondering if the Novak setup is different. I think the front end needs to be stiffer on my setup to stop the rear end from dumping over.
[QUOTE=kendallb;5586071]From my experience, the FDR you run is entirely dependent on the brand of motor and ESC you are using, the timing you have on the motor and ESC as well as the winds of the motor. For instance the 'normal' FDR that most people would start with for 13.5 would be around 4.5 (assuming a basic fixed timing of around 24 degrees or so). However if you are running a new ESC like the Tekin (with 189 or later beta software) or the new LRP SPX ESC, those have timing boost modes built in that will completely overheat your motor at a 4.5 FDR timing.
Thanks, very true, their is no standard gearing anymore. the only thing to do is to start conservitave.
I run the Tekin 13.5 setup with the 189 beta software, and my most current setup was to run an FDR of 5.8, ZERO timing on the motor can and full boost in the ESC. My other setup that I also like is full timing on the can of the motor, boost of about 10-12 and an FDR of around 6.15.
Thanks for the input!
[QUOTE=adamge;5589029]http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...5&setup=t2_008
(it's easy to find because it is a featured setup)
Thanks Josh
Hi Paul
I'm after a bit of advice - I'm in need of some new LiPo cells, and very tempted by the Trinity ones....
Basically, I'm looking at either the 3800 35C or the 5000 30C packs. My main competitive racing will be 10.5 outdoor, with occasionally 13.5 indoor (but that's just club racing) - which of the two cells do you think would be best suited to my situation? (Or are there another you'd recommend?)
Many thanks for any advice
Oli Meggitt
I'm after a bit of advice - I'm in need of some new LiPo cells, and very tempted by the Trinity ones....
Basically, I'm looking at either the 3800 35C or the 5000 30C packs. My main competitive racing will be 10.5 outdoor, with occasionally 13.5 indoor (but that's just club racing) - which of the two cells do you think would be best suited to my situation? (Or are there another you'd recommend?)
Many thanks for any advice
Oli Meggitt
thanks.
#1064
Tech Regular
Hi Ollie, I would definately suggest the Ip 5000 30c. honestly the C rating means nothing on the track. i dont think that we draw what it takes to make the C rating mean anything. for mod i dont care much which battery i use because we have so much power but for any limited motor class i use the IP 5000.
Oli
#1065
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Hi, sorry for the delay. i dont have a set up that i am as confident in as i am my carpet set-ups. i guess that i would start with Ralph birch's set up from the reedy race last year ( he was really good at speedworld ). or i would try one of the euro asphalt set ups. wish i could help more. Thanks
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What is the effect of running the 1 degree rear hubs, compared to the same overall toe all in the arm?