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Old 03-31-2009, 08:07 AM   #1066
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
Hi Paul

What is the effect of running the 1 degree rear hubs, compared to the same overall toe all in the arm?
here is what i think that you will notice. with the 1deg rear hubs on (same overall toe) the car should have less corner entry steering, the rear of the car will roll a little bit more threw the center and have more exit corner steering with a little bit less forward bite. it is a bit like running just a little softer rear spring.
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Old 04-02-2009, 02:03 PM   #1067
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Unfortunatly I am at a loss for words so I will just post this picture!
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Old 04-02-2009, 02:07 PM   #1068
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Unfortunatly I am at a loss for words so I will just post this picture!
lolllll
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Old 04-02-2009, 04:56 PM   #1069
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Unfortunatly I am at a loss for words so I will just post this picture!

wholy shit.....that is funny as heck.....



























































where do i get one
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:23 PM   #1070
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Unfortunatly I am at a loss for words so I will just post this picture!


I will take ten please and you can overnight them
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Old 04-03-2009, 01:15 AM   #1071
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Hi mate, I saw some pics of a 1/12th car that you ran, maybe at the Snowbirds? It looked like a mixup of several Trinity cars. A Switchblade/Reflex front end bolted to a Black Widow rear end. Was that indeed your car, and if so, does Trinity have any plans to release any new 1/12th cars in the near future? Sorry for all the questions but I have made a 12th car that looks VERY similar to the one in those pics I saw, however, mine uses a 'generic front end from a well known US manufacturer'. Cheers, Chris.
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Old 04-04-2009, 04:16 PM   #1072
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[QUOTE=Paul L;5618169]Hi, sorry for the delay. i dont have a set up that i am as confident in as i am my carpet set-ups. i guess that i would start with Ralph birch's set up from the reedy race last year ( he was really good at speedworld ). or i would try one of the euro asphalt set ups. wish i could help more. Thanks





That is great to hear, that set up has had a lot of work behind it!

Just to be safe i would start at around a 5.5 for a tight track and check temp from their, 140-160 is acceptible, 175 and more is getting toasty.



maybe try me most recent set up from the nationals, that track was a little nosy for me so i ended up with a bigger front bar. make sure that you have fixed pistons in your shocks (not clicker), i use the fixed pistons and they are a lot different. also double check that it is copied properly (low rear roll center, ect). normally that set up is pretty good about not lifting the inside rear tire, the difference could be something small that you missed.

[QUOTE=kendallb;5586071]From my experience, the FDR you run is entirely dependent on the brand of motor and ESC you are using, the timing you have on the motor and ESC as well as the winds of the motor. For instance the 'normal' FDR that most people would start with for 13.5 would be around 4.5 (assuming a basic fixed timing of around 24 degrees or so). However if you are running a new ESC like the Tekin (with 189 or later beta software) or the new LRP SPX ESC, those have timing boost modes built in that will completely overheat your motor at a 4.5 FDR timing.

Thanks, very true, their is no standard gearing anymore. the only thing to do is to start conservitave.

I run the Tekin 13.5 setup with the 189 beta software, and my most current setup was to run an FDR of 5.8, ZERO timing on the motor can and full boost in the ESC. My other setup that I also like is full timing on the can of the motor, boost of about 10-12 and an FDR of around 6.15.

Thanks for the input!


Quote:
Originally Posted by adamge View Post
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...5&setup=t2_008
(it's easy to find because it is a featured setup)




Xray uses CST rating, this dosent mean that it is exactly the same as others but it is close, associated does have the cst rating on their bottles now. but i would suggest using the xray oils just to keep it exactly the same. now that the cars are so fast oil can make or break a set up.



Thanks Josh




Hi Ollie, I would definately suggest the Ip 5000 30c. honestly the C rating means nothing on the track. i dont think that we draw what it takes to make the C rating mean anything. for mod i dont care much which battery i use because we have so much power but for any limited motor class i use the IP 5000.

thanks.


Hi Guys, i have had some people ask me if i am running a Tekin speedo because of the look of this long quoted post, i think that their was an error in the way that it reads do to the format of the way that the post came out. in fact i am not using a Tekin and it was a quote from kendalb, Just wanted to clarify things. Thanks, Paul
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Old 04-04-2009, 05:16 PM   #1073
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Anybody has a T2 2009 set-up for outdoor low grip tight layout thanks in advance
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Old 04-05-2009, 12:07 PM   #1074
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Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
Anybody has a T2 2009 set-up for outdoor low grip tight layout thanks in advance
http://forum.teamxray.com/xsheets.php
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Old 04-05-2009, 01:16 PM   #1075
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Paul,
I am finally getting a Xray. I found a very clean T2 007. My plan is to run 13.5 at RCP and 17.5 when I get to Trackside. The car that I am getting comes with a Front Diff, I was wondering if I should go with a Front One-Way or go with a Spool with the New Double jointed CVD's? I would also be looking for a Setup for the car.
Thank you for the help
Dave
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Old 04-06-2009, 04:05 PM   #1076
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi mate, I saw some pics of a 1/12th car that you ran, maybe at the Snowbirds? It looked like a mixup of several Trinity cars. A Switchblade/Reflex front end bolted to a Black Widow rear end. Was that indeed your car, and if so, does Trinity have any plans to release any new 1/12th cars in the near future? Sorry for all the questions but I have made a 12th car that looks VERY similar to the one in those pics I saw, however, mine uses a 'generic front end from a well known US manufacturer'. Cheers, Chris.
Hi Chris, that was my car that i was testing a bunch of stuff with. Im not sure if Trinity is doing a new car or not anymore, possibly in the future. now i am rinning the Xray car and working with them on that. Thaks

Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
Anybody has a T2 2009 set-up for outdoor low grip tight layout thanks in advance
I would look on the xray site as suggested below, i have not run on a tight outdoor track in quite some time, but you should have some good ones to choose from. sorry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer72nova View Post
Paul,
I am finally getting a Xray. I found a very clean T2 007. My plan is to run 13.5 at RCP and 17.5 when I get to Trackside. The car that I am getting comes with a Front Diff, I was wondering if I should go with a Front One-Way or go with a Spool with the New Double jointed CVD's? I would also be looking for a Setup for the car.
Thank you for the help
Dave

Hi Dave, you could start at trackside with the front diff also (just very tight). eventually you will want to go to a one way or a spool but in 17.5 sometimes cars with diffs can be good because of the ease to drive that a diff can provide. the reason that everyone runs a spool or one way is that the car will excelorate much faster compaired to a diff but in 17.5 its possible that their is not enough power to make it a huge advantage. when you do go to a spool or a one way i would suggest a spool, most like one ways but my novak race spool set up should be good for anything. Thanks, paul
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:26 PM   #1077
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Need help

On my T2 2009 I measured the down stops per the set-up sheet, everything all even put jacos rubber blues then when I checked the up travel to make sure both wheels touch the set board at the same time there was about 1.5mm difference between letf and right with the motor side of the car contacting first

Shocks are equal lenght
chassis is flat
running lipo but car is balance

So i detach the shocks and wheels and measure the downstops on the block and it about 1.5 difference between L and R Man I'm lost and suggestion, thanks in advance

Last edited by dawgmeat; 04-07-2009 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:02 PM   #1078
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paul

per our conversation today, the car is already arms back front and rear....

so i am moving the wt forward, and mounting the wing back,

from there i will try the other suggestions....if that dont work i will visit...
later buddy

matt
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:49 PM   #1079
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I can't let Josh get all the laughs...and although it's NOT Paul depicted below, it's amusing nonetheless. Paulies motorman, Jim Dieter:
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:47 AM   #1080
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Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
Need help

On my T2 2009 I measured the down stops per the set-up sheet, everything all even put jacos rubber blues then when I checked the up travel to make sure both wheels touch the set board at the same time there was about 1.5mm difference between letf and right with the motor side of the car contacting first

Shocks are equal lenght
chassis is not flat
running lipo but car is balance

So i detach the shocks and wheels and measure the downstops on the block and it about 1.5 difference between L and R Man I'm lost and suggestion, thanks in advance
these questions are hard because it could be anything.
If the car is ballanced with weight, and tweaks perfect with the shocks collars equally turned down, all should be good. when i run in to your problem it is when I have to turn one shock collar down to tweak the car properly, if the car is not tweaked perfect your problem is very normal. you can try switching your shocks Right's to left or your springs, i do that sometimes just to make my self feel better because sometimes one spring will be a bit longer. What your saying is pretty normal but it dosent change that their is something that is not perfect. i wish i could see the car, but start with the shock collars being equal and see how far off the tweak is first, then how the ride height is on all 4 corners of the chassis, if you can get it within .3mms ride height side to side and pretty equal cross weight you should be good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. losi View Post
paul

per our conversation today, the car is already arms back front and rear....

so i am moving the wt forward, and mounting the wing back,

from there i will try the other suggestions....if that dont work i will visit...
later buddy

matt
Cool. remember the rear toe, high front roll center, .5% ft camber, 2.5%rear camber.



Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Filipow View Post
I can't let Josh get all the laughs...and although it's NOT Paul depicted below, it's amusing nonetheless. Paulies motorman, Jim Dieter:

Thats awesome!
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