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Old 12-21-2007, 10:10 PM   #76
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thanks for the explanation paul, that actually helps since i do make changes that according to my theory should give more steering and does the opposite.
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Old 12-21-2007, 11:37 PM   #77
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Paul,

On a more serious note... since you avoided my Wally question (joke), how important do you think it is to have a chassis' static weight balanced from right to left? I've heard some pro's are really picky about this, while others don't really care and don't pay too much attention to it.

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Old 12-22-2007, 06:05 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by GMSchmidt View Post
Paul - if you guys are running the Trinity / EP 4600s........ How do you recommend charging / discharging them? I have the zero 30 discharge tray and plan to dump them in that and then charge at 5 amps. Then storing them with around 500 mah in them. I've been out of electric since the 3800s and we could beat the crap out of those. If that doesn't sound right or there is a better way..... please let me know. Thanks
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Initally I equalize the cells on a DPD at 1 volt per cell, then charge at 6amps with a .03 cut off on a GFX. If I plan on running the pack again, I will discharge the pack down to 1 volt per cell on my GFX at 30amps after the run. (They can be ran twice in the same day without harm. Just leave enough time for them to properly cool).
If you are putting them away for a week, then I won't discharge the pack after running, just put away as is. Now if you dumped the pack, then i would 600 seconds back in the pack.
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Old 12-22-2007, 09:55 AM   #79
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Do I need to have a chalice in hand to sit at this 'round table' you speak of?
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Old 12-22-2007, 10:42 AM   #80
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Do I need to have a chalice in hand to sit at this 'round table' you speak of?
No sir.....its called a goblet
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Old 12-22-2007, 06:35 PM   #81
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Duckman: I am fairly picky about this. but nowdays the cars almost always over weight. so i will ballance the car as well as i can with maybe mooving the PT to the right or running a lighter servo on the left but i would never make the car more over weight by adding a bunch of lead to one side or the other to make it ballanced. The motor is mooved in on the 008 so it is pretty close to being ballanced now. Overall i think it dose make a difference on the track but to me its worth more in pece of mind in the pits.

Thanks Chad..

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Old 12-22-2007, 07:38 PM   #82
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Paul,
Last week end I was running 13.5 BL foam, Dbl pink Jaco's, KO 2413 servo, on a Med. bite track with a fairly flowing layout with 2 tight 180's. I had a problem with pushing in the sweeper and hooking badly in the tighter areas. I assumed I was transfering to much weight forward when slowing. I was running nearly box stock setup with 4* front c-hub
~1.5* camber ft and 2* rr
Front toed out ~ 1.5*
rear toed in to original box set-up 2* ?
Inner ft & rr hinge pins low (this position allows little or no drop adjustment)

In addition to endpoint and dual rate adjustments. I tried moving rr hinge pins up to mid then high with no effect, finally by the last qualifier I set the rear with squat and this was the greatest help but it resulted in a lowspeed push that I dealt with as the lesser of 2 Evil

My question is, was I over looking something else or is this the way you would have approached the problem?
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Last edited by miller tyme; 12-23-2007 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:03 PM   #83
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Paul in the quest to get a free car (Low speed/High speed steering, corner speed) on a med traction track what things do you look for in a setup? Any particular settings (squat,dive,high/low roll center) that you look to include? I ask this question because even though we are on diffferent teams I know that you have the knowledge and time it takes to have strong ideas about setup characteristics, and most of these ideas will transfer to any car brand.

Rod
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:13 PM   #84
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I heard that Paulie came to a local middle school here that has a RC club. He helped the kids out and gave them some goodies. I've raced and helped out there before, just wanted to give a big thanks

Planning on running some more MWS events again this upcoming summer?
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:35 AM   #85
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Quote:
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Hey Paul,

How often do you check the Ask Wally Edmonds thread for set-up advice?


i dont run TC ducky dude
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Old 12-23-2007, 06:09 PM   #86
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Miller tyme: Even though you gave a good discription on whats going on this is a hard one, but it seems like you have a good idea of what is happening your self. if it were me, I would start by trying thinner rear oil or opening up a hole in the rear piston. I beleive that this will give you more high speed steering. In addition to that i would try adding ackerman by Knotching back the center post or making it shorter, this shold help the car transfer a little less weight foreward in the middle of a tight corner. Also i would find a way to get more droop in the car. i usually do not use alot anyways but it is good to tune with. most of the guys run around 1mm of droop above ride height, so if you have 4mm ride height you could lift the chassis to 5mms before the tires would lift off of the ground. and also more rear camber will help if the side wall of the tire has something to do with it.
I think all in all you approached it well.
I would try some of these things and if they dont work tell me what you thought they did (for your car on that track) then we can go from their with more info for your particular situation.

Rod: generally i dont look for any specific settings but i do like a car that turns over the rear as apposed to a car that turns over the front. for me it is much harder to achieve but when ever i do get it right for that ocation it is always the fastest. so basicly i like cars to roll more over the rear end, but still generate alot of steering.

Thunderbt: Yes i do plan to run all of the midwest series races this coming summer also, they are a great time. yea i did get down to Hadley, it was a great time and i got to help a ton of kids with their cars. and gave them all some cool stuff. Thanks
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Old 12-23-2007, 06:47 PM   #87
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Paul, can you explain in greater detail by what you mean "i do like a car that turns over the rear as apposed to a car that turns over the front".
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Old 12-23-2007, 08:21 PM   #88
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Ho! HO! HO! whats up paul
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Old 12-23-2007, 08:41 PM   #89
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Hi Craig, I hope that this will make sence. it is easy to get a car that turns over the front(meaning to dump the front end in a way that will weight jack the car and get the inside rear tire lite) when you do this the car usually turns good but will spend more time diffing out and can be unpredictible to drive.
I like to try to get the car to turn by dumping the rear, because i think you have to transfer weight to get a car to turn, dumping the rear easy to achieve but is very hard to make the car turn good like that. but when it dose it is very fast and predictible. All this is for foam tires

With rubber tires i find that any time you have one end of the car that rolls alot (dumps around) more than the other end, things just get weird because of the reduced traction and weight jacking combined. i think that you need a more ballanced type of chassis roll for rubber tires (more over the side as apposed to roll across the rear or front).

none of this is really set in stone because i do stuff all the time at the track that i thought would do something different. but generally i think that this post is good, as long as i got the point i was trying to across.
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Old 12-23-2007, 08:42 PM   #90
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Hey George, marry christmas man..
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