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Old 03-01-2008, 09:47 AM   #421
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Thanks Paul.
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Old 03-01-2008, 09:56 AM   #422
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Paulie, Jay here... I was speaking with Mikey and he has had good results with 21.5mm fronts and 22mm rears. What are your thoughts Bro?
ROAR rule 8.10.5.1 Minimum tire width for sedan T2 is 24mm
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Old 03-01-2008, 05:48 PM   #423
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Rob: Hi, I used a 2.5mm chassis. no milling.

Mshap33: no problem atall, i would start in the rear with the long and high hole on the tower( but not the super high hole), and short with 2mm on the outside. this will be very close to paralell.

In the front i would start long and low with 0 under the caster block, but keep in mind to try long and high with 1.5 under the caster block if the car needs to be a bit easier to drive. you may have to play with it a bit.
thanks for your set up help,I was able to improve by 1 lap only problrm I encountered was being loose off power. I started with long and high in the rear -75 block and long and low in the front middle block 3 hole pistons front and rear 35 wt oil 1.5 camber front and rear what would you try next. Thanks again for all of your help
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Old 03-02-2008, 04:18 PM   #424
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Cool car

ran the bird's set-up 2day and wow a ton of steering! I had to add some rear toe and it was all good ..the FDR r u running 56mm 3.5 or 4.5 ..the motor what temp is ok 150 60 70 ?
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:14 PM   #425
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Mshap33: with your rear camber link did you run the 2mm underthe outside? if not definately do that. other than that i would increase the rear camber(Just a little) like 1.75deg, and decrease the front camber to 1deg. I would also try standing the shocks up one hole all the way around and see what that dose to your car ( it may make it easier to drive). another thing that will make it easier to drive would be taking out caster, but try those other things first. If you dont have three deg rear toe, Do that also.
With rubber tire your rear diff is also very important, obviously you dont want it to slip but you also want it very smooth and free feeling, smooth and free= rear stability. let me know, Thanks again.

KB: i run a 4.0 with 118/23, 56 or 57mm tire. that is where i gear pretty much all the time, even when tire size changes a little. Motor temp ?
with a 3.5 id gear 22 and a with a 4.5 id gear 24, Maybe 25 but not necisarily recomended. this is all 6cell gearing of course.
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:33 PM   #426
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k thanx ...I must say mod is fun!
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:16 PM   #427
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Nhra: 5.0, 56.5mm, Temp im not sure. I dont remember changing the rotor atall but jim may have. maybe he will answer. I ran majenta's in both classes.
Speedo, all stock settings except for turning off the lipo mode. Thanks

Aaron: cool, ill be around some this coming week. maybe ill see you then.

Anotherrcguy: I think it depends, but ill just put it this way. I have never raised my rear diff and just said ( man my car pushes), i think that it can give you more rear grip in certain areas, but just plain more rear grip i dont think so.

Sean: NO, [email protected], try this.

Thanks Paul

Paul, what were you running for a pinion and spur to get a 5.0? with the 1.7 ratio I would have to have a 116/39 and it woun't fit in the car? Did you change the inturnal ratio of the car? Thanks for your help!!
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:11 AM   #428
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Nhra: Hi, i used a 100 spur. you can use a 104 also. Xray is making smaller gears, but for now you will have to use another brand and make it work.
I used a Kimbrough and sanded it thinner (took 5min) to fit, then drilled a hole in it for the motor screw. The hole will have to be pretty close to the outside teth. it seems like a pain but its not that bad.
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:02 AM   #429
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Nhra: Hi, i used a 100 spur. you can use a 104 also. Xray is making smaller gears, but for now you will have to use another brand and make it work.
I used a Kimbrough and sanded it thinner (took 5min) to fit, then drilled a hole in it for the motor screw. The hole will have to be pretty close to the outside teth. it seems like a pain but its not that bad.
I'm lost here unless 5.0 is for 10.5...u said 4.0 or 118/23,22 ..I did the math and 118 dev by 23=5.13 X 1.7= 8.72 ...
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:17 AM   #430
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Paul….I know you are the master of the Arabian pepper shaker have you ever had a continental breakfast before or had both at the same time?
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Old 03-03-2008, 11:17 AM   #431
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KB: yea i got confused for a sec on that also, a 5.0 is around where i would gear the trinity 10.5 motor, in this case we were talking about a gear ratio not a motor wind.

Kevin: i am ashamed that you have me stumped on this one, im sure that we will have to talk in person about this.
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:48 PM   #432
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Mshap33: with your rear camber link did you run the 2mm underthe outside? if not definately do that. other than that i would increase the rear camber(Just a little) like 1.75deg, and decrease the front camber to 1deg. I would also try standing the shocks up one hole all the way around and see what that dose to your car ( it may make it easier to drive). another thing that will make it easier to drive would be taking out caster, but try those other things first. If you dont have three deg rear toe, Do that also.
With rubber tire your rear diff is also very important, obviously you dont want it to slip but you also want it very smooth and free feeling, smooth and free= rear stability. let me know, Thanks again.

KB: i run a 4.0 with 118/23, 56 or 57mm tire. that is where i gear pretty much all the time, even when tire size changes a little. Motor temp ?
with a 3.5 id gear 22 and a with a 4.5 id gear 24, Maybe 25 but not necisarily recomended. this is all 6cell gearing of course.
paul thanks for your quick reply I didnt have the 2mm shim on the outside. I will try your suggetions this sat. I will let you know again thanks for your help
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:49 PM   #433
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Paul,
What would you recommend for a fairly new driver that is just starting to learn to drive on carpet, foam or rubber? Rubber looks cheaper in the long run but Im not sure, foam looks much faster. Also the racer I am talking about is only 15.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:27 PM   #434
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Mshap33: cool, let me know. ill help you get it all squair..

racingboy14: HI, im glad to hear that you are interested.
My advice would be to run rubber, yes it is slower, yes rubber should be less expensive. I think that it is important to learn how to drive on rubber tires first, it is not easier or harder but it is just different.
In my opinion racing rubber will make you a more well rounded driver. I think that it is easier for a great rubber tire driver to be fast on foams than it is a great foam tire driver to be fast on rubber. But i also know that it is important to race what you want to race and you need to do whatever you have the most fun doing. But that is definately my opinion.
whatever you decide im sure i can help you with something along the way. Paul
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:30 PM   #435
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Kevin: i am ashamed that you have me stumped on this one, im sure that we will have to talk in person about this.
Yeah I will draw you a picture.....
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