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Old 02-07-2008, 01:46 PM   #271
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HrcRacer: Hi, a lightweight bodie will make a difference, but it depends on the type pf racing that you do, foam tire on carpet i think it makes a difference for the better, for rubber tires it makes a handling differenece but i dont think that you will see it in the lap times. but it is something you can play with.
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Old 02-07-2008, 01:56 PM   #272
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foam tire on carpet i think it makes a difference for the better

Can you elaborate on this a little bit more because I do race foam tires on carpet..

Thanks Paul and congrats on the win at the birds. Damn I wish I had half the amount of skill you have. I saw a video of the main you won..wow..
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Old 02-07-2008, 02:06 PM   #273
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Congratz Paul..have safe trip down here for w-nats.
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Old 02-07-2008, 04:17 PM   #274
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Hrcracer: No problem, i think for the amount of traction that foam tires have on carpet a light weight bodie can be an advantage, I would say on rubber tires not so much. High weight can give the car traction but when you already have so much (Foams on carpet) it could hurt you by making the car roll too much and make the car not transition as well. I guess what im saying is that a light weight bodie will be an advantage when the grip is really high like at a big club race or major event. That being said I am not a huge fan of the other things that come along with light weight bodies, like they dont last long and the constant body tucking.

Robert: what are you doing over here on the electric side? Ill see you in a few days. thanks.
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Old 02-07-2008, 04:53 PM   #275
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Paul, could you post any suggestions for properly mounting a body? More forward? more rearward? Which is more effective on Rubber? Foam? best way to trim around wheel wells? Little or more gap to outside of tires? things like that. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

BTW, Great run at the birds! Congrats on yet another big win.
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Old 02-07-2008, 06:59 PM   #276
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K-spec: here is how i mount my bodies. since i get my bodires painted before i drill any holes in them, mounting the bodyis always harder. I always have a clear template that i use to refronce the holes on the painted body the template holes are dead center side to side and front to back. I normally run my bodies a bit foreward 2to 4mms. you can set the clear bodyover the painted one and just mark with a sharpie all 4 holes more foreward or back while keeping your marks centered with the template. from their i drill the holes just oversized so the body goes on with ease not to tweak anything.
Then i set the car up as i were to run it, proper ride height, battery and motor ect. I then take a standard sharpie and lay it on the flat table and draw a line around the bottom of the body (while its on the car with hood pins and everything), the tip of the sharpie should be something like 6mm off of the table when it is layed down, this way you will get an even cut line that will be about the right distance off of the ground. Obviously if the skirt is hitting the table you will have to draw and cut around the bodie twice. you should want the body as low as the rules will let you, and i normally run the body pretty level( not raked much or rear lower than front, you will know when it looks right, (if your car looks like a dog taking a dumd going around the track, the rear is too low) LOL
I had one like that last week in practice at the birds.
From their i just get the wheel wells to where i dont think that the tires will catch, and especially behind the rear wheels i take some extra off to try and help with the tucking, lately i have been cutting up the rear skirt behind the tire( making the cut line behind the rear tire very high off of the ground) this will make it harder to tuck and give the car a bit more rotation.
For my wing on my DNA i run it 1mm farther back than the farthest back dimple. sorry, even i had to read this 5 times to understand what i wrote..

hope this helps.
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Old 02-07-2008, 08:05 PM   #277
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Thanks for the reply. I'll have to read it a few more times with the body in hand to fully understand it. But the general idea is there...
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Old 02-07-2008, 09:41 PM   #278
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Paul, good advice on shell mounting. Do you pin your shell tight, or leave a gap between pin and body to allow body to lift when you run over stuff? Also, do you think the body lasts longer when it is mounted so the front bumper is in contact with the shell's nose? It seems to me that having the body slid forward causes it to fold over at the front wheel arches, and that is the area that seems to crack first for me.

Driving advice, too, please. Say there's a tight hairpin corner. It's a single apex dot or flapper, and you are running 19t foam-carpet. Do you head in at full throttle, turn, then lift when you get close to the apex? Or do you lift and turn at the same time? Or lift, then turn? Do you ever use brakes?

-Adam
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Old 02-08-2008, 12:54 AM   #279
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Paul, good advice on shell mounting. Do you pin your shell tight, or leave a gap between pin and body to allow body to lift when you run over stuff? Also, do you think the body lasts longer when it is mounted so the front bumper is in contact with the shell's nose? It seems to me that having the body slid forward causes it to fold over at the front wheel arches, and that is the area that seems to crack first for me.

Driving advice, too, please. Say there's a tight hairpin corner. It's a single apex dot or flapper, and you are running 19t foam-carpet. Do you head in at full throttle, turn, then lift when you get close to the apex? Or do you lift and turn at the same time? Or lift, then turn? Do you ever use brakes?

-Adam


Sounds like we should invite Paul back to Canada so you can see his set up knowledge 1st hand..
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Old 02-08-2008, 05:51 AM   #280
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Adamge: my Clips are pretty close to the body so i would not say that it is free floating, but i dont see a problem with running it so the body can moove up and donw a but if it needs too. On the other hand with 12th scale you do want your body to have some room to moove, not so much side to side but up and down, and the body should fall on the posts, 12th is a little more critical. for the bumper i run just the smallest gap petween my bumper and the front of the body(maybe 1mm), and depending on where the body is mounted you may have to iether glue more material to the bumper or grind some off to get it just right.

In 19 turn i never use brakes. the cournering question is hard to answer, because it depends on the exact corner and a thousanbd other factors. mainly i try and feel what is fast, and if that is turning exactly when i lift in that section that is what i will do. but i guess most of the time i will lift just before i turn, but in a tight hair pin like that in 19 you can run it in deep if their is no room to set up for it consistently.
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Old 02-08-2008, 05:52 AM   #281
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Hey KG, ill make it back up one of these days.
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Old 02-08-2008, 08:45 AM   #282
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Paul, how do I change the timing on the 13.5 duo motor? Trinity advertises that it has adjustable timing, but it seems locked to me, am I missing something?
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Old 02-08-2008, 10:04 AM   #283
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Paul, how do I change the timing on the 13.5 duo motor? Trinity advertises that it has adjustable timing, but it seems locked to me, am I missing something?
loosen the 3 screws on the back of the motor and turn it counterclockwise to advance the motor , 1mm = 3 degrees of timing
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Old 02-08-2008, 10:19 AM   #284
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Bigmike:Hi, The motor has three timing settings on the end bell (wire side) their are 9 holes, 3 sets of 3. your motor should be in the middle hole of all three. to chage it you will pull those three screws out on the opposite end of the motor, they go all the way threw.
If you increase the timing you will most likely have to gear down, and i wouln
d not suggest taking the timing back from the stock position.
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Old 02-08-2008, 10:22 AM   #285
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