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Old 01-13-2008, 04:55 AM   #196
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Hi Paul,

A larger spur is supposed to give more bite foreward, but it also moves the motor a bit further to the front. Is the moving of the motor causing loose grip in the rear?
Can you shed some more light on this topic?

~stokka
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Old 01-13-2008, 07:58 PM   #197
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Paul L: I have a question on shock oils (hopefully this makes snese) .... is there a general direction that should be taken with regards to oil weight depending on track temps? do hotter tracks generally require thicker oils (> 40wt) while cooler tracks lighter ones (<40wt)? its gonna be my first time to run outdoors again after a loooooong while and i dont know if i should start out with a thicker oil given the hotter temps. i wanna avaoid having to change oils during the race coz im sure i'll ahve other stuff to worry about in terms of set up.
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Old 01-13-2008, 08:17 PM   #198
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Hey Paul I run my hinge pins the same height front and rear and are also flat. I am running the same shock set up front and rear also. My car rolls to much in the front but everytime I do that I loose steering. Is there anything I could do so my front doesnt roll so much with out loosing steering??

Thanks
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Old 01-14-2008, 04:27 PM   #199
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Driva,

One of my offroad cars drives a little tweeked to the left. Would it help to glue an ounce or two to the right rear A arm to try to keep her going straight?

Also, can you tell me what tire diameter you recomend for 12th scale?

Beavis
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:55 AM   #200
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Paul,
How many front swaybars can be made from a single coat hanger wire? Just trying to prepare...
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:28 AM   #201
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Paul,
How many front swaybars can be made from a single coat hanger wire? Just trying to prepare...
LOL!
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:07 PM   #202
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RKeasler: sorry for the huge delay in responce. For the rear i dont recomend anti squait or pro squait, but i do angle the pins horizontally for rear toe.
In the front its the opposite i will use anti dive or kick up if needed but i normally do not angle the pins horizontally for pin toe. but generally flat pins with proper rear toe is the best.

Stokka: I have heared that a bigger spur (with the same overall ratio) will give the car more acceleration but i dont know exactly why that is or if its 100% true.
The motor being more foreward or back in the car dose make a difference as you know, i think that in most situations the motor being more forward will take turn in away and increase your exiting steering, with a little more push in the center. vice versa.

ROBORAT: Yes the oils will change with different temps and this is something that you can take into consideration, but normally so many other things change with the track temp that it would be hard to pinpoint, you will notice the difference with tire temp and how the traction will corrilate with track temp before anything. but your thinking is definately right.

Teammidget: I would suggest narrowing the rear of your car a bit or possibly running a small front bar. I understand that you dont want to loose steering but i think that it is important to first get the car to have a ballanced roll, then try and find some steering somewhere elts, you could also try shifting some weight over the rear of the car, this could give you more steering and make the car roll over the rear better.

sure beavis.

HI turd, you can make 10 2wd front sway bars out of a standard coat hanger. lol

Thanks everyone, Paul
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:52 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
RKeasler: sorry for the huge delay in responce. For the rear i dont recomend anti squait or pro squait, but i do angle the pins horizontally for rear toe.
In the front its the opposite i will use anti dive or kick up if needed but i normally do not angle the pins horizontally for pin toe. but generally flat pins with proper rear toe is the best.

Stokka: I have heared that a bigger spur (with the same overall ratio) will give the car more acceleration but i dont know exactly why that is or if its 100% true.
The motor being more foreward or back in the car dose make a difference as you know, i think that in most situations the motor being more forward will take turn in away and increase your exiting steering, with a little more push in the center. vice versa.

ROBORAT: Yes the oils will change with different temps and this is something that you can take into consideration, but normally so many other things change with the track temp that it would be hard to pinpoint, you will notice the difference with tire temp and how the traction will corrilate with track temp before anything. but your thinking is definately right.

Teammidget: I would suggest narrowing the rear of your car a bit or possibly running a small front bar. I understand that you dont want to loose steering but i think that it is important to first get the car to have a ballanced roll, then try and find some steering somewhere elts, you could also try shifting some weight over the rear of the car, this could give you more steering and make the car roll over the rear better.

sure beavis.

HI turd, you can make 10 2wd front sway bars out of a standard coat hanger. lol

Thanks everyone, Paul
Hello after I get my car to roll evenly front to rear how should I go about getting steering with out making the front roll more??
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:54 PM   #204
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Hey paul, do you have any tips for an aspiring racer who would want to maybe one day be sponsored? I am young (14) but have been racing for four years at my local tracks and i am a constant a main contender. I have not yet dominated the club seen (keyword, yet) against some very fast and consistant racers, but intend to do so and hopefully travel to bigger races as planned around my hectic school schedule.

Aside from that, when did you start racing and how did YOU get sponsored? I understand that a sponsorship won't make racing cheaper, but every factory pro guy needs to start somewhere right?
Will it be harder to get a sponsorship for 1/10 touring (which is what i have raced all of my racing life) as it would lets say, offroad?

I have sent some emails, and if i would get a reply it would be a rejection letter (its all good though). I do understand that racing other places beside podunk colorado would help too
so what would your advice be?
thanks for reading
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:33 PM   #205
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Teammidget: i suppose what i said above is not totally true because everything that you change will change how the car rolls, but i do beleive that for rubber tires the car should roll more even side to side than over any one end. I suppost that the first thing i would try is mooving weight back in the car. then play with camber links. your sweet spot for camber links and static camber will be different with different tires.

A main attendee, I like your screen name..
The best advice that i have is pretty simple, if you keep having fun racing you will want to race alot (the key to this is not to take racing too seriously but seriously enough that you will try) , if you race alot you will get better, and it may take a while but if you go to enough big races you will eventually do well and in part get noticed and sponsored. another big thing is to never get discouraged and get cranky at the track, I did that when i was little at a nationals and had to be told all this by a Major Componys Rep at the race, Boy did i feel like a jerk after being called out for being a baby.
Any class of racing that you do the companys will be looking for the same things these are a nice/personable guy or girl that is a good racer, has a good work ethic and is helpfull to people. keep it up. paul
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:44 PM   #206
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Sup PL! Happy New Year to you & yours and see ya in 2 weeks!

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Old 01-16-2008, 10:22 PM   #207
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thanks for the quick reply

what age did you get sponsored (if you mind)?
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Last edited by a_main_attendee; 01-16-2008 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 01-17-2008, 01:31 AM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
.
.
Stokka: I have heared that a bigger spur (with the same overall ratio) will give the car more acceleration but i dont know exactly why that is or if its 100% true.
The motor being more foreward or back in the car dose make a difference as you know, i think that in most situations the motor being more forward will take turn in away and increase your exiting steering, with a little more push in the center. vice versa.
.
.
.
Thanks Paul for the turn info, just what I needed.
A bigger spur with the same overall ratio results in a smaller pinion with less rotational mass. Less resistance in the movement of rotor + the rotors increase of rpm with shorter distance to travel, since the pinion is directly attached to the rotor. All this results in more acceleration.

~stokka
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:02 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stokka View Post
Thanks Paul for the turn info, just what I needed.
A bigger spur with the same overall ratio results in a smaller pinion with less rotational mass. Less resistance in the movement of rotor + the rotors increase of rpm with shorter distance to travel, since the pinion is directly attached to the rotor. All this results in more acceleration.

~stokka
Actually a bigger spur requires a bigger pinion to keep the same ratio. 100/25=4.0 while 80/20=4.0.
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:09 AM   #210
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Hey pdub. thanks man, you too. hope your new job is working out well, see ya

Amain, my first sponsor was tamiya and i was maybe 15 or 16.

Stokka/flack: if it is true, maybe it has to do with tooth drag a small pinion spur might acually drag the teeth threw eachother, pinion tooth coming in and goung out at a sharper angle?? I dont really know. lol
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