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Old 05-31-2003, 03:36 AM   #1
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Default Aluminium Endbell

Hi guys! Can anyone tell me where I can buy this item on the net? Thanks in advance...
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Old 05-31-2003, 03:46 AM   #2
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and also, will this be a good upgrade? i'm using an Orion Chrome 10x2 motor, the endbell (plastic one) melted.. I'm not even sure how! anyways, one of my friend told me I can get one Aluminium Endbell at rccarinternational.com, but now, it seems that they don't have it anymore.. hope you guys can help! thanks again..
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Old 05-31-2003, 04:00 AM   #3
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Default ECHO Japan

THey make the alloy endbell you are asking about....

powers international can get them in the states..

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Old 05-31-2003, 08:51 AM   #4
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I dont really know how useful the endbell is though, if I remember right some of the older motors used to come stock with them, but you dont see them around anymore. If you melted the endbell you need to gear your motor correctly, not buy an aluminum one and continue to reak havoc on your motor.
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Old 06-01-2003, 05:12 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
I dont really know how useful the endbell is though, if I remember right some of the older motors used to come stock with them, but you dont see them around anymore. If you melted the endbell you need to gear your motor correctly, not buy an aluminum one and continue to reak havoc on your motor.
I was geared 8.36 (122/31) on my Xray T1, using an Orion Chrome 10x2 the day it melted.
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Old 06-01-2003, 05:15 AM   #6
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Default Re: ECHO Japan

Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
THey make the alloy endbell you are asking about....

powers international can get them in the states..

-Dave


I can't seem to find it on the net, do you know their website?
thanks again!
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Old 06-01-2003, 05:51 AM   #7
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A company called Echo sells Aluminum endbells. You can get them through Magma R/C
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Old 06-01-2003, 06:05 AM   #8
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a really old atlas mod i have has an aluminium endbell. no one uses them these days, if your melting plastic ones something is definately wrong. are your brushes and comm getting burnt up aswell and is the can getting really hot, if so the alloy endbell isnt gonna fix the problem.
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Old 06-01-2003, 10:57 AM   #9
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I dont know what kind of gear ratios you are supposed to run on XRay cars, but that does seem about right. You still need to find the problem making all of the heat though, because like I said, an aluminum endbell is not going to take any of the heat away, it just wont melt like the plastic one.
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Old 06-01-2003, 08:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
I dont really know how useful the endbell is though, if I remember right some of the older motors used to come stock with them, but you dont see them around anymore.
Heh heh... who remembers 16-triple racing??

Latest metal endbell I've owned was a CAMS 16T, and that's going back a few years. In the 1980s quite a few Kyosho LeMans and AYK motors had metal endbells. Not entirely sure of the benefits, really.

Imho plastic endbells will only melt if (1) your bushing is dry and seizes or (2) the brush holder screws have loosened and the brush is loose, the extra electrical resistance will cause severe heating under current.



And also a reminder too... modifying a Rebuildable Stock motor makes it ILLEGAL for racing.

(I'd love to put bearings in my Trinity... spent some time yesterday giving it a fresh cut and new brushes, would have loved to yank out the bushes.)
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Old 06-01-2003, 08:31 PM   #11
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You must be very very gifted, since i have done some stupid stuff, yet never have i melted an endbell.

However, in normal operating temps electric motors can get near 200 degrees, both stock and mod motors. So you had to of had a bad bearing or something else wrong, since its pretty hard to melt a 10 turn, unless you are really off on gearing or there is something mechanically wrong in the car or motor.

an aluminium endbell will NOT solve your problem.
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Old 06-01-2003, 08:46 PM   #12
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Default Melting Endbells

Guys;

There is only one thing that will melt a plastic Endbell, Too Much HEAT.

This is usually caused by:

1) Gearing too Tall (low numerically) for the application. Brushes will usually show the first signs of over-gearing.

2) Running the Car too long without any Cool down. (normal runtime for racing is 4-5 minutes) Any longer and the Gearing should be changed to keep the Motor cooler.

3) Drive-train Drag. (something is tight or binding) Remove the Pinion from the Motor and see if the Wheels, etc turn freely.

Look for one of these as your problem.
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Old 06-02-2003, 09:14 AM   #13
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got my friend to inspect this motor, found out that the culprit is the comm not being balanced.. tried another plastic endbell from my team atlas motor, changed the comm, and whalah!!! problem solved! currently running 11X2, geared at 8.10 (122/32) i think i'll be stuck to this one for a while, till i get my hands on athe novak brushless thingy! thanks for all your comments and suggestions.. made me realize that the plastic endbell still works!
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Old 06-02-2003, 10:30 AM   #14
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How do you go about changing the comm?
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Old 06-03-2003, 09:23 AM   #15
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correction: make that armature, not comm...
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