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Old 05-30-2003, 12:23 AM   #31
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check out these pics of my old 414
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Old 05-30-2003, 12:24 AM   #32
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another....
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Old 05-30-2003, 12:31 AM   #33
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Yep, these are TB EVO Susp.Arm holders. They are also a lot lighter than the blue ones.
John,
Are you using all 4 tb3 susp. mount A, B, C, and D? Or it doesn't matter, they all the same? I want to get those and I don't want to get the one that don't fit.
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Old 05-30-2003, 01:15 AM   #34
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Yes, I use all of them, A,B,C,D.

If you use different combinations you can achieve different toe in and different widths.

For ex.:

If you use A+D for the back you have the most toe in possible which is 3.5 degrees per wheel.

If you use C+D you have 2.5 degrees of toe in which what I use.

The secret here is that you can have the same result with A+B.
Each letter corresponds for half (1/2) degree of toe in, in addition to the 2 degrees from the standard angle that the blocks have.

The difference between combination C+D vs A+B is that the first one will give you a wider car, about 189mm. the other about 187mm.

This way you can experiment with the width.

Also note that these susp.arm blocks are higher than the std ones found on the TRF 414 series.
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Old 05-30-2003, 01:58 AM   #35
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Thanks John.
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Old 05-30-2003, 03:50 AM   #36
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The evo 3 blocks equals the stock blocks with 2 mm spacers underneath. They are cheaper and lighter as an added bonus too.
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Old 05-30-2003, 04:38 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by [email protected]
another....
thats looks really good
i bet there lighter then the new bulkheads

anyone know where to get them??
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Old 05-30-2003, 08:51 PM   #38
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evaa i think perhaps you are still getting used to the car.
and havent yet fully developed or set up the car yet.how many other trf racers at ur club? [/B][/QUOTE]

yup m still getting used to the car, besides when i ran and tried to set-up the car before that big race, i sued tamiya type b tires, thinking they would work. nwei, with the tires i set-up the car and it handled pretty well, thing is, before the race, my buddy (who ran nitro the day of the race) broke a set of rims with sorex 40s, and being a high budgeted racer, what he did was he bought a set of four tires, thus, he had 2 extra sorex 40s (the tire of choice for everyone in the track). What i did was i used his sorex 40s on the rear of my 414M and the car developed understeer. Since the day was very hectick (3 qualifying runs and three mains) i ddint thinker with the set-up anymore to remove understeer. So in short i was racing with a car that was understeering in the fast corners but was beating everyone on the technical portions of the track, so i guess landing in the b-main was a good result for me.

3 racers run trf, 2 evo3s and my 414M. the other evo3 placed 4th, 2losis in front then a tc3, while the other evo3 placed 1st in b-main, i managed 7th only in b-main, at least i wasnt in the c-main.
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Old 06-08-2003, 06:17 PM   #39
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im planning to stock on more spare parts. which parts do you guyz brake the most on the 414mII????
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Old 06-08-2003, 09:51 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by Calvin Ng
im planning to stock on more spare parts. which parts do you guyz brake the most on the 414mII????
I broke my rear shock tower twice.
But this was due to glitching.
Other parts were mostly wear and tear.
Rear diff parts, belts, C-hubs and front uprights.
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Old 06-09-2003, 01:03 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by Calvin Ng
im planning to stock on more spare parts. which parts do you guyz brake the most on the 414mII????
i havnt really broken any of the parts in my 414M, but i would suggest the c hubs, the rear uprights and the carbon steering link or do thye call it a carbon steering plate?

oh, by the way, i noticed that the gap where u insert the cvds in the outdrves in my front one way seem to be getting bigger, i guess this is due tothe stress that the outdrive rcvs, i'm planin on getting a new set as soon as the old ones egin to look really jagged.

but all in all, the 414M seems to be a really sturdy car, u wont blv how touhg it is until u see it fip ver three times then land on its belly, then try drivingit and u wont notice anything different except for some scratches.

one final note though, i noticed that the lower deck is not as tough as it seems, it chipped when i hit one of the barriers in my track, now i'm looking for a replacement. itrid mending it with ca, hope it gets better.
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Old 06-09-2003, 04:56 PM   #42
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Front body posts and arms are what i've mostly broken after about 1.5 years of racing the car. You might want a spare rear shock tower handy, I've seen others break theirs.

Get TA04 Kingpins. Ever since I started using them, I never broke an upright yet.
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Old 06-09-2003, 05:00 PM   #43
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when you guyz say uprights do you mean body posts?
still a newbie at all this stuff

can you guyz give me part numbers for this stuff like the kingpins?
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Old 06-09-2003, 06:34 PM   #44
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The upright is the plastic piece that houses the bearings for the driveshaft axle.

http://www.tamiya.nl/tamoptions/tam_53000_trf414.html

TA04 kingpins - part # 50882
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Old 06-09-2003, 08:35 PM   #45
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thanx
need more help

the other day i was having trouble taking the wheel axle (53499) out of the upright

i think it was because of the wheel hub(53569)
i have the manual but i still dong get how you are suppose to take the wheel hub out so you can get the wheel axle out.

are you suppose to twist it out??
i tried pulling it. it didnt even budge

help me !
i bought my car used so i dont know it 100%
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