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Old 11-28-2007, 06:33 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
I had some success with the M04 at my local track. Here's some stuff that worked for me...
Just wanted to say that I enjoyed reading your setup & driving input. I've exprimented with widening the track before also... you might want to check out the Tobee Craft 4mm wider axles & universals since you aren't limited to TCS rules. I used to throw wheels off on track occasionally from running too many spacers & not having enough threads for the wheel nuts to lock into... very frustrating. I use the wide Tobee axles on one of my cars now, along with the narrower 4mm Tamiya clamp hubs, so I can fine tune the width a bit better. This gives a 4mm wider track to start with, & I can safely add 2mm per hub with spacers.

Mitchell
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:44 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Dorigecko View Post
Hi, I'm after some owners opinions on the Tamiya M-04M/L chassis.

I've heard a bad rap about these little buggers, people saying they're mediocre-at-best handlers, they don't transfer power well, and they're crap all-round chassis'. I however, don't believe it yet.

I'm interested in purchasing the Eunos MX5 (M-04M). I won't build it without bearings and suspension modifications (i.e. fully raced and oil-filled dampers with low springs). I know all about the M-03, but nothing of how the M-04 would perform, and quite frankly I've wanted to know for yonks.

If you can provide any insight in depth of how these RWD machines go, I'll throw bricks at an offended roosevelt and be forever grateful.

Thanks,

Jason.
The m04 can be very good on high bite tracks. On a well soiled carpet track it would probably be the car to run. the main problem is the car is very sensitive to setup. if you have a track that has consistent traction level throughout the entire day, you shouldn't have a problem. On asphalt the tracktion picks up throughout the day and you constantly have to change the setup to keep the car going straight. Another problem is in many cases swaybars are a must because the rear diff works better loose. if you have too much body roll, you end up spinning the tires in the back and it can make you very unstable and sometimes spin out. Tamiya discontinued the swaybar kit many years ago, and if you are racing a tcs race, it is illegal to use the m03 swaybars. because of the poor shock angle in the front, the shocks don't really make a tromendous difference. thats why the car is very sensitive to tire insert choices more than anything. in the front you need something pretty firm. But you also dont want the tire to be very heavy. a heavy wheel is more unsprung weight, and unsprung weight contributes to poor response. the only hopup i would really recomend is the mo3r aluminum rear hubs so that you can change camber and roll center. that will really help you put the power down and keep even wear on the tires. And try to keep the car as light as possible, the lighter the m04 is, the better it handles. I recomend aluminum screws, i can sell you a full set of really good ones for $20. Let me know if you have any other questions. i can tell you a lot more about getting the car setup.
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorigecko View Post
Hi, I'm after some owners opinions on the Tamiya M-04M/L chassis.

I've heard a bad rap about these little buggers, people saying they're mediocre-at-best handlers, they don't transfer power well, and they're crap all-round chassis'. I however, don't believe it yet.

I'm interested in purchasing the Eunos MX5 (M-04M). I won't build it without bearings and suspension modifications (i.e. fully raced and oil-filled dampers with low springs). I know all about the M-03, but nothing of how the M-04 would perform, and quite frankly I've wanted to know for yonks.

If you can provide any insight in depth of how these RWD machines go, I'll throw bricks at an offended roosevelt and be forever grateful.

Thanks,

Jason.
The m04 can be very good on high bite tracks. On a well soiled carpet track it would probably be the car to run. the main problem is the car is very sensitive to setup. if you have a track that has consistent traction level throughout the entire day, you shouldn't have a problem. On asphalt the tracktion picks up throughout the day and you constantly have to change the setup to keep the car going straight. Another problem is in many cases swaybars are a must because the rear diff works better loose. if you have too much body roll, you end up spinning the tires in the back and it can make you very unstable and sometimes spin out. Tamiya discontinued the swaybar kit many years ago, and if you are racing a tcs race, it is illegal to use the m03 swaybars. because of the poor shock angle in the front, the shocks don't really make a tromendous difference. thats why the car is very sensitive to tire insert choices more than anything. in the front you need something pretty firm. But you also dont want the tire to be very heavy. a heavy wheel is more unsprung weight, and unsprung weight contributes to poor response. the only hopup i would really recomend is the mo3r aluminum rear hubs so that you can change camber and roll center. that will really help you put the power down and keep even wear on the tires. And try to keep the car as light as possible, the lighter the m04 is, the better it handles. I recomend aluminum screws, i can sell you a full set of really good ones for $20. Let me know if you have any other questions. i can tell you a lot more about getting the car setup.
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Old 11-28-2007, 09:24 PM   #19
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IF the rules where your race allow you. Turn the whole gear box around and this puts the motor behind the rear tire, Less spinning out. With this and the extra tooth in the pinion the M03 has a real problem keeping up.
takes some digging but its here on my friends website
http://www.barbiere.sakura.ne.jp/
Here is a few pictures from his site.
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M-04 Opinions-m04rr05.jpg   M-04 Opinions-m04rr03.jpg  
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Old 11-29-2007, 11:01 AM   #20
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The wide axels look great, but if I add anymore width, it will rub the fenders on the hpi miata body that I use><.
I use this: Tamiya 4mm Hard Lock Nut & Spacer Set #53448
The nut does not have the flanged part, and eliminates 2mm off each side so you can widen it 4mm more total. I've seen ppl with M04s that the tires stick out half way, with the body rear raised like a hotrod, but it doesn't handle well at all.

Kinda interested in the RR conversion. Guess I have to fab my own. Seems like some plexiglass with servo mounts?
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Old 11-30-2007, 12:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
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I use this: Tamiya 4mm Hard Lock Nut & Spacer Set #53448
I just searched the part number for a picture... cool, I didn't know that kit existed. I've used some smaller non-Tamiya wheel nuts in the past for the exact same purpose, & I thought I was being ghetto!
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Old 01-25-2008, 05:24 PM   #22
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Hi Guys,

I am having a hard time finding someone who carries RP Mini slicks, apparently they are having production problems. Can anyone point me to a site that sells the ABC Mini slicks or Spice belted slicks?
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:00 PM   #23
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Here and here...
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Old 01-27-2008, 05:01 PM   #24
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hi,

neon red springs (orange looking, softest) in the rear, yellow in front, plus wheel spacers (1m - 2mm) to widen front/rear might help.

on carpet, m04m is probably faster than m03. lightweight as much as possible.

ty

ps... my mo4m after it retired from tamiya races...

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Old 02-11-2008, 11:28 PM   #25
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The key to M04 is adding weight to the rear of the car. run mine with a Reedy Flash 15 and Lipo. As far as springs, similar set up to redbones. I tried tuning the car with the HPI x pattern.. had 0 success, so went back to the stock ones. My frustrations went away after I put lead weight on the rear bumper (28 g)!!

You do have to learn how to drive it though. Can't floor it off the line or it will break traction and spin out. (This happens with black can or the Reedy 15) You have to let it build a little speed and then let it take off. One it gets going, my car goes dead straight. Takes turns like a true Alfa GTA.

I am curious to try the spice and RP slicks. Anyone know where I can buy them in the US?
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Old 02-12-2008, 12:51 PM   #26
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There was three M04 in the TCS race Trackside this past weekend.
Also M04 won Mini.
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Old 02-12-2008, 01:45 PM   #27
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I have the Alfa and biggest thing I found with the setup is tires. If you have to run Tamiya tires per TCS rules plan on replacing the rear tires after about 3 runs because they are done and it will not handle. With the MO3 cars you can run the tires until the tread splits and still be descent. I do not know how it is with the aftermarket tires because we run TCS rules around here.
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Old 02-12-2008, 01:54 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by tarheelquality View Post
I have the Alfa and biggest thing I found with the setup is tires. If you have to run Tamiya tires per TCS rules plan on replacing the rear tires after about 3 runs because they are done and it will not handle. With the MO3 cars you can run the tires until the tread splits and still be descent. I do not know how it is with the aftermarket tires because we run TCS rules around here.
Do you run the m chassis slicks or m chassis pattern?
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Old 02-12-2008, 01:56 PM   #29
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I have the Alfa and biggest thing I found with the setup is tires. If you have to run Tamiya tires per TCS rules plan on replacing the rear tires after about 3 runs because they are done and it will not handle.
What rear tires do you run?
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Old 02-12-2008, 02:15 PM   #30
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I have stopped running it but I ran both the treaded and slicks. If I race Mini now I run MO3s, I have two short and the M04. Mostly I do not run Mini too much anymore because I try not to run more than one class at a time and usually run touring.
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