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Old 10-21-2007, 04:10 PM   #16
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Team kwik... how much do you charge for Blueprinted stock motors???
$36.95

http://www.teamkwik.com/product_info...products_id=35


Great products. While you're at it, take a look at firewater under motor accessories > Drops and oils.
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Old 10-21-2007, 09:52 PM   #17
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Hi Sgrios,

I will do my best to go over this as quickly and easily as possible =)

Polishing the shafts basically entails either using an emery paper or cloth with a high quality metal polish and making the contact areas where the shaft rides on the bushing mirror smooth. One of the key areas to building a fast motor is the reduction of friction.

Aligning brush hoods is a bit more complex. There are several ways that it can be done and several conflicting opinions. Big Jim always endorsed the concept of aligning the hoods so that the actual contact patch of the brush was seated squarely on the comm. To do things this way you need to run the motor in for a few seconds until it creates a wear mark on the brush and then adjust the hoods until that wear mark is dead center on the face of the brush. The idea here is that the brushes shift slightly inside the hoods when the motor spins up so just setting them 180 degrees apart isn't really accurate in relation to how the brushes actually make contact. We have tried many different methods and the Big Jim way always makes good power. It takes a little practice but it pays off in the long run.

Feel free to hit us up with any other questions, always happy to help out.

Nick
Nick, i still have a problem to align my hood if i adjust the hoods seperate then wear mark is in the exact center of each brush, then i check it with MM motor checker the motor (rpm and amp draw) is poor performance. If aligns the hoods directly across from each other the motor performance (rpm and amp draw) was good but have blackened area on the trailing edge of the brush.
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:02 AM   #18
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Nick, i still have a problem to align my hood if i adjust the hoods seperate then wear mark is in the exact center of each brush, then i check it with MM motor checker the motor (rpm and amp draw) is poor performance. If aligns the hoods directly across from each other the motor performance (rpm and amp draw) was good but have blackened area on the trailing edge of the brush.
Hi Echo,

I just talked this over with Shawn and while it's odd I think we might have something for you to try out. It's important that when you have finished aligning your hoods that the brushes are still 180 degrees in orientation. Your motor may have provided you with an awkward starting position and the end result of the Big Jim alignment is leaving the brushes poorly oriented from each other.

Take the motor and do a standard 180 degree alignment to start using your average alignment bar. From there apply the Big Jim method and see if you experience different results. As I said before this is the sort of thing that takes a little practice but if done correctly should produce real gains.

Let me know how you make out,
Nick
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:37 AM   #19
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hi, may i ask normally how long u guys break in the motor after u guys truer it ?? running with 3.0v rite ?

thanks
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Old 10-22-2007, 01:05 AM   #20
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hi, may i ask normally how long u guys break in the motor after u guys truer it ?? running with 3.0v rite ?

thanks
About 5 minutes at 2 volts using an F-Brush. If you are using a harder or softer brush you will need to adjust the time accordingly.

Nick
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Old 10-22-2007, 08:53 PM   #21
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Hey guys
Just giving a little help here. Just remember that the brush hood on a stock motor is 2 pieces per side. When aligning you must lossen the screw and the spring post. Here is what I generally do to my motors. First make sure that you center the shaft in the magnetic field. It's easy, Take all the shims out, put a pinion on the shaft and spin it. You will see where the shaft wants to be. Put the shims back in accordingly but make sure the shaft has just a little play, don't bind it.
Brush hood alignment, lossen the hood and center it straight across from each other. Thats a starting point. I usually put the tool in each side ( one side at a time ) and turn the motor can clockwise to start. Use a Black sharpy , put a small line down the center ( horizontal ) and run the motor for a bit, to see where the wear marks are and adjust accordingly.
Break in I use the same method as Nick, I myself don't have a dyno. I use a motor holder and a small fan mount. Just the noise, the amp draw and basicly how quickly the thing trys to runn across the table tells me if I did a good job..lol. If I get the opportunity I try to get a dyno reading from a friend but it's not essential.
What is essential is a comm Lathe, and for those who havent figured this out yet. You can get lathe bits at a fraction of the cost directly from non-RC manufactures.

Criagger
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Old 10-22-2007, 09:06 PM   #22
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I'm sorry, I messed up on the hood alignment. I had to go and check a motor quick. It's just something you do second nature. When aligning the brush hood rotate the can Counter-clockwise. Hold it and then tighten everything down. Help me if I'm messing up here Nick...lol. The arm will rotate in a clockwise position which will force the brushes up against the left brush wall.
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Old 10-22-2007, 10:15 PM   #23
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You can get lathe bits at a fraction of the cost directly from non-RC manufactures.
Yep, try McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/

They have all kinds of hardware as well, much cheaper than most places.
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Old 10-22-2007, 11:59 PM   #24
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i have a Q...dont think it is stock related thoug..

wondering RPM and power out of the Eagle Racing Z-zone modified 9TD mtor

thanxs


also....wat is classified as a stock motor and wat is a mod motor...

cheers

wog
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Old 10-23-2007, 12:55 AM   #25
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at this point, until a dyno comes out for brushless and brushed ( I know the CE can do it).....I would not buy one....
Can you tell me what you had to do to the CE dyno to get it to handle brushless motors? Mine sure wouldn't.

For that matter, would a dyno for brushless motors even make sense? So much of the performance of a brushless motor is dependent on the speed control, all the timing and "commutation" happens in the controller, how could a dyno show anything meaningful...

Thanks
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Old 10-23-2007, 10:30 AM   #26
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You basically have to interface the speed controller to provide power.........I am not a big fan of telling people fully how to do it, as a few have fried their dyno's...........try giving CE a call and they may tell ya.......

As for using a dyno on brushless motors...........well, while there is some truth to the speedo altering the power to the motor, in the end, the dyno would still be a set variable and show you the variances among motors, especially motors of the same type......if the variables are all the same at the power controller end, then that means any differences that show up on the dyno would be purely in the motor..........which we have already seen in multiple aspects of them, though the range seems to be much lower than your typical brushed stock or 19t motor can have.

Also, with the advent of tuning now with different rotor types (sizes, material, balance, magnet strength, etc).........and dyno would be a good tool in measuring the difference in power or powerband that the change provided......which can be a big help in gearing among other things.........

Later EddieO
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Old 10-23-2007, 10:31 AM   #27
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And anyone who wants instructions on how to Align hoods, email me at [email protected]...........I will send ya the ones big jim used to send out with his alignment bar.........they come with photo's and everything.......the Bar is no longer sold, but we sell a new version designed by big jim also.

Later EddieO
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Old 10-23-2007, 10:38 AM   #28
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Default spring chart

Hi,
Is there a trinity spring chart avaliable that has the spring weights/colour on it? Thanks
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Old 10-23-2007, 10:43 AM   #29
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Blue Super Soft
Green Soft
Red Medium
Purple Hard
Silver Super Hard

The blacks, well.........those range all over the damn place, so I never count them......as they have been produced numerous times in different stiffness, I think the last version was between a purple and a silver.......

Best thing to have for springs is a fiddlestick to measure them once they are on the motor, cause its not uncommon for a purple to be like a red or a green to be like a blue..........this tool lets you measure them right on the motor and adjust as needed.

Later EddieO
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Old 10-23-2007, 10:50 AM   #30
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Not sure if this exactly what you were looking for Taffy. Quick google search.

http://www.helgerracing.com/j2trinit...pringpage.html

Eddie, I sent you a email. About the instructions.
Thanks a lot Eddie being so kind to send those. =)

Jeff
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