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Old 10-14-2007, 09:43 AM   #1
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Default sedan setup thread

I have been racing for a while, but never really changed my setups. I kind of know what changing what does, put get lost when people say it has a push, it understeers/oversteers and traction roll. I got the tc3 setup guide but still does not explain much and please don't mention the xxx main setup guide, that made me even more confused.
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Old 10-14-2007, 09:46 AM   #2
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I do have a question about my car. I am running it on mid it high traction carpet, which carpet oval is raced on. The traction seems extremely high in the four turns which oval is also ran, that is where I am having my problem. The rear almost seems to wheel hop in the mid to exiting the corner. And it almost wants to spin how. I was told that I should start with a sway bar but have also heard that the do and do not make a difference.
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Old 10-14-2007, 10:01 AM   #3
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Have a look at this. It's a pretty good primer for setup and handling options.

http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/

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Old 10-14-2007, 07:35 PM   #4
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r u running rubber or foam tires. if u r running foams put super glue on the sidewall of the front tire. actually need to know more about what your current set is
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Old 10-15-2007, 05:17 AM   #5
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rubber 1 degree rear toe
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Old 10-15-2007, 09:03 AM   #6
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First thing I see: really soft springs.
Two: is that 4 degrees of camber all around? That's a LOT.
Three: lots of empty spots on your setup sheet that should be filled in.

The XXX main book is awesome, and is information overload. I recommend just reading a section at a time, and referring to the quick setup guide at the back often, until you can assimilate all that info. The setup guide at the Xray website is good too.

It sounds like you're running a road/oval course. If so you might end up with a compromise setup to deal with the grooved up oval corners vs. the less grooved road course corners. Or, optimize the car for the majority of the track and deal with the problem corner by driving it differently.
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Old 10-15-2007, 09:18 AM   #7
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I have found that sway bars tend to give the car a vague feeling, I would do what gacjr0 suggests and run harder springs and oil first, with 3 hole pistons.

if the suspension is too soft, it will bottom out, the hopping can be where the chassis is rubbing the carpet and digging in.
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Old 10-15-2007, 06:35 PM   #8
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the camber is -1, I will try some harder springs, like blue in the front and sivler in the rear.
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Old 10-15-2007, 07:33 PM   #9
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Ok, go to richardchang.com and print off the TC setup guide. If you have ADD or ADHD, like I do. Then these pieces of paper with lettering on it will save your life....I call the 1/12 setup guide my Bible.
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Old 10-15-2007, 08:25 PM   #10
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I have a log to throw in everyones fire... I was talking with the 4th fastest 5th scale drive in the world tonight and was told to set up my car completely different than I have before.. Instead of setting camber at ride height I was told to set it up with the shocks removed and the chassis flat on the table and the axles mounted in my setup gauges... Basically told me not to even worry about that the static camber was...

I'm wondering how this would transfer over to 10th scales... For the last 5 years I've been setting up my 5th scale the same way I've been doing my 10th scales...
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Old 10-16-2007, 03:53 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny View Post
I have a log to throw in everyones fire... I was talking with the 4th fastest 5th scale drive in the world tonight and was told to set up my car completely different than I have before.. Instead of setting camber at ride height I was told to set it up with the shocks removed and the chassis flat on the table and the axles mounted in my setup gauges... Basically told me not to even worry about that the static camber was...

I'm wondering how this would transfer over to 10th scales... For the last 5 years I've been setting up my 5th scale the same way I've been doing my 10th scales...

I dont think its necesary, I mean with a 5th scale your using 10mm of travel where as with a 1/10 your using 3 - 4 mm of travel. In that 10mm a poor camber curve will show up more, IMHO
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:48 AM   #12
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I think that setup technique would work for some cars but not all cars.
I beleive it would depend on the geometry (roll center) and the basic shape of the parts (hubs). For instance when the chassis is flat and axles on the setup blocks one car may be at an approximation of its ride height geometry; while another car may be way out of its normal range when doing that.
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gacjr0 View Post
I think that setup technique would work for some cars but not all cars.
I beleive it would depend on the geometry (roll center) and the basic shape of the parts (hubs). For instance when the chassis is flat and axles on the setup blocks one car may be at an approximation of its ride height geometry; while another car may be way out of its normal range when doing that.
I understand the concept behind it, instead of relying on the static camber at ride height, you are adjusting the suspension to what it's max would be, gives you more control over the curve...

I just recently switched from a car that was very slow to steer to a car that is extremely quick... I was pretty much told to ignore the fact that I'm going to have positive camber in the front end. The car has so much steering that it's the only way to slow it down and make it drivable...

I've had carpet cars that have been like this, I don't think it would work on foams since the foam will just wear to the camber angle, but I could be wrong...
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Old 10-16-2007, 02:24 PM   #14
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I set my car up so that the springs are ae blue in front and ae sliver in the rear. and 45 wt oil all the way around.
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Old 10-16-2007, 02:39 PM   #15
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how well does it handel with the 45 wt and the blues? I usually run differnt shock oils and spring in the front in the rear.

The xxx main setup books a great help.
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