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Old 10-08-2007, 01:03 AM   #1
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Default Newb Clarifications Needed

Okay, been racing 1/8 offroad for quite some time now while always eyeing the touring car scene. The time has come and I think I'm going to jump. But first I need some things cleard up.

Looking at a JRXS or the (R) or a T2 007
I know this could be debated non-stop as to which of these is better, but that s not what I need to know.

Can both of these accept Orion lipo packs?

If so, I need to know which one of these cars is better? J/K

Motors: I definatly want to go brushless. I think I can handle a pretty quick car but don't want to over do it. I want to get somthing I can grow into as far as speed and performance go???? (opinions?)

I think some of the Novak stuff is the way to go BUT... I've been told that since I am running a spektrum radio I need to get one of Novaks "spread spectrum" ESC's. IS this true????
If so esc is decided, if not I would love to go with a brushless "package".
Any size suggestions are welcome.

If I do have to go with the GTB spread spectrum what motor should I run? I've been thinking the SS10.5 or Velociti 4.5R

I think thats the major meat of my questions.
Go to town poeple
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Old 10-08-2007, 04:50 AM   #2
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The top deck on the 007 is too low for the 4800 orion... JRSX - R is fine
you dont have to get the spread spektrum GTB, the regular GTB will work fine
I run the 10.5 with a GTB in the JRSX- R with an Orion 4800, and it is a really good setup.
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:13 AM   #3
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in my place, Jrxs is full of durability issues around it's "leg"...break easily...
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:20 AM   #4
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If you insist on using Lipo's, may as well go with the Losi (I call them Sportworks now.lol). The lighter battery (over NiMh, Orions 3200 pack is almost 7 ounces lighter) will give fits on chassis ballance. The losi, not so bad because of everything being located in the center of the chassis (w/ exception of esc and reciever). Unless you have the skills of National competition, you wont need the Spread Spectrum (honestly, most all the people that buy something like that, dont need it, and wont even notice the difference, but it is the latest and greatest, so people think that they Have to have it). I have had a lot of sedans in my time (still have several) and the 007 is by far the best (IMHO). I have a TC5 now (duly impresed) and I still run a T2 ('06)for rubber tire racing. Oh, the 3200 packs fit the '007 with a little modification to the right rear bulk head.
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:07 PM   #5
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Any more input????
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Old 10-08-2007, 10:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4m1y4niac View Post
in my place, Jrxs is full of durability issues around it's "leg"...break easily...
Are you referring to the A arms on the Type R? If so that has been resolved long ago with the newer molded arms. They are about as durable as any other car.
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Old 10-09-2007, 01:25 AM   #7
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i have been running a losi jrxs for 2 years and have only broke 4 arms. one of them rear and 2 right fronts,the track i race on sweepers are when you are turning the right. don't ever say they are weak,you just might be the weak one (lol)

start with something slow, trust me. touring is a whole different ball game when it comes to smoothness and consistency i suggest nothing more than a 13.5 novak on any gtb, i run mine on a mamba max but takes some careful throttle movement.

by the way on my jrxs i have only broke a total of ten parts, 2 sets of belts (stupid dirty tracks ruin any belt) and nothing else significant to remember, plus i replaced all the bearings after the carpet track i also race on ate them, the losi bearings in the kits are the best on the market, as far as kit bearings go
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Old 10-09-2007, 11:57 AM   #8
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what size wrenches are needed to work on either of these cars???
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Old 10-09-2007, 04:23 PM   #9
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The XRay is all metric. No idea on the Losi.

Hex drivers:
.5 (grub screws)
1.5 (grub screws)
2.0 (most common)
2.5 (droop screws)

Nut drivers
5.5 (ball studs)
7.0 (wheel nuts)

The only oddball SAE hex would be 3/16 for the grub screw on the pinion.

The turnbuckles are spring steel and require a 3mm turnbuckle wrench. Hudy may have these back in stock. They're on the homepage of their site at the moment.

Add to that your favorite pair of slip joint and needle nose pliers and you're set.

HTH,
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Old 10-09-2007, 05:49 PM   #10
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PEfect answer!!!
thanks Chris
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Old 10-09-2007, 06:45 PM   #11
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You should also get a 3.0mm hex for the shock ends. The screw that goes into the top mount for them uses 2.0mm hex, but the ends themselves use 3.0mm. That's the only way to get the shocks on/off the lower arms. Also consider the Hudy shock tool. It makes taking the lower cap off easier.
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Old 10-10-2007, 08:56 PM   #12
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Alright, picked up a t2 007 thanks to jr. I am looking for a list of parts that I should keep on hand for spares. what breaks most often? besides a arms. This will be raced on asphalt.
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Old 10-11-2007, 08:13 AM   #13
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Steering blocks are by far the weakest link in the whole car, followed by front arms then rear uprights. You can harden the rear uprights by running a grub screw into the empty hole in the top of the block, otherwise the ball stud will wallow out over time with repeated side hits.

I'd recommend tracking down a set of aluminum steering blocks. XRay makes them, but they've been back ordered for months. Team Tamale makes some that are a higher grade of aluminum, but he's out of stock at the moment.

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