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Old 10-01-2007, 08:47 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
there was a guy here DaHellion , made all his bodies but havent heard of him for over a year now

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&highlight=dh1

http://www.webspawner.com/users/dahellion/
What happened to him, he just disappeared....

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i'm telling you if you pour plaster into a 1/10th scale body it will deform badly. it needs to be reinforced.. plaster works fine, is cheap and fairly durable and hold detail very well..

I'm looking to do 2 5th scale bodies I have... I'm probably just going to make the molds and take them to a shop and have them done...

The good thing about the 5th scale is the lexan is very thick, the bad part is they are huge... I got ideas from others to make a wood core, drill holes to let air through and plaster a place to bite on to and suspend it in the body before pouring the plaster... I'm probably going to use Balsa, haven't even started yet, it's going to be a winter project...

pretty much I'm going to build an outside form to level the bodies and keep them from deforming and then just suspend my core off posts...

I was contemplating building my own vacuum cabinet but trying to heat up a 24x48" piece of lexan is going to be a chore... I was thinking about, instead of using electric to heat up the lexan, using LPG... I could buy the burners from the local grill store and just use one of my BBQ tanks...
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:38 AM   #17
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Yeah, check out this Porsche 956 thread. Danny and I were working together on making our own line of realistic Porsche 956 bodies. I sent him a brand new Tamiya 1/12th Porsche 956 body to work with. Then I stopped hearing from him. And it looks like I am out of luck. I've been trying to get in touch with him for over a year. Nothing. Nada. He now has 2 bodies of mine, and he's fallen off the face of the earth.
well i think he had health issues last time i spoke to him but that was well over a year ago maybe 2
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:40 AM   #18
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I've been looking at radiant heaters to heat the lexan instead of electric coils. Coils seem to be the popular way to go, but the larger the oven the bigger pain the coils become.
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Old 10-02-2007, 07:02 AM   #19
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to get more detail out of a plaster mould you have to drill lots of tiny holes (about half an inch apart) so the body can be sucked closer, otherwise you get bubbles and the copy gets a bit lumpy. we have a vacuum former at school and maybe if i ask nicely....
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:37 PM   #20
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But if you drill holes in the plaster it'll show up in the body.
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:49 PM   #21
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But if you drill holes in the plaster it'll show up in the body.
That was my thought... Would you just smooth the lexan down prior to hitting the vacuum???
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Old 10-02-2007, 04:47 PM   #22
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I've seen video's of guys smoothing down the lexan with gloves on while the vacuum is on. that probably prevents most problems. Also a strong vacuum would suck out any bubbles. The last thing to consider would be shape of the form. if it has negative holes like "V" the center of the V would need a hole drilled through so that air could escape, other than that the air should naturally be drawn out. although the V shape would have to be a 3D convex shape, because you could also design a deep V but if you planned a route for the air to escape that would draw down fine without any holes drilled.
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