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Old 10-02-2007, 09:48 AM   #16
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One really nice thing the T2 cars have going for the with 540 is the internal ratio. You can get to some really low final drives, because the internal ratio is only 1.7, so you can use normal-sized pinions and still get appropriate ratios for silver can motors.
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Old 10-02-2007, 10:59 AM   #17
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I am just thinking to build a lightweight (no limit weights on regs) and with good acceleration drivetrain chassis, only for join 27T or 540 silver races.
Then I will call it "Stock Special".
Nice, isnt'it.
Try to get a shaftdrive car so you can gear higher and shaftdrive can accelerate fast out of the corner without slipping belts!
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Old 10-02-2007, 12:55 PM   #18
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Try to get a shaftdrive car so you can gear higher and shaftdrive can accelerate fast out of the corner without slipping belts!
A toothed belt can slip?

A toothed belt can slip with a Mabuchi???

Please....

I'm not getting into which one is better OR how many fairies can dance on the head of a pin...but come on...LOL
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Old 10-02-2007, 12:56 PM   #19
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oops...double post.
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Old 10-02-2007, 01:20 PM   #20
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Very little if any belt slippage in the corners. Why are all the new TC cars belt drive?

Pros: Shaft drive (should) equal less drag
Cons: Torsion on touring car may affect handling

Shaft is more direct (con) If it gets bent your screwed (pro) Belt is less easily damaged (con) stuff gets caught in belt and car doesn't move( I have never had this happen)

Well a shaft drive in the perfect world of formulas and books is more efficient, neglecting items like component distortion under load and such. The belt drive is easier to get working properly in the real world. with a belt drive if the chassis flexes you might get a couple of skips but with a solid shaft drive you bind the gears which could lock up the tires and that could get ugly.
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Old 10-02-2007, 02:24 PM   #21
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When belts "slip" (skip) on a belt car, it's not something you have to wonder about, it's a very distinctive and clearly heard noise.

If the topic is about 540 (mabuchi/silver can) and which cars are best for that, them belt vs. shaft really isn't an issue. I've run shaft forever and my cars are pretty free, but my T2 kicks butt with a mabuchi. It's as free as any of my shaft cars, if not more free.
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:05 PM   #22
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how many fairies can dance on the head of a pin LOL
157 fairies can dance on the head of a pin
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:23 PM   #23
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157 fairies can dance on the head of a pin
I heard 15.7, but that could have just been a typo.
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Old 10-10-2007, 02:21 AM   #24
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One really nice thing the T2 cars have going for the with 540 is the internal ratio. You can get to some really low final drives, because the internal ratio is only 1.7, so you can use normal-sized pinions and still get appropriate ratios for silver can motors.
I forgot to say something, the regs have been limited on minimum FDR.
Don't you think it's better to have a car with bigger internal ratio as possible?
Maybe Cyclone or the coming soon TRF416?
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Old 10-10-2007, 07:19 AM   #25
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I forgot to say something, the regs have been limited on minimum FDR.
Don't you think it's better to have a car with bigger internal ratio as possible?
Maybe Cyclone or the coming soon TRF416?
I would go for a belt driven car for sure, as if the pulleys as well as the spur gear can be changed, you can get a very wide spectrum of internal gear ratios.

You just dont have that scope with the shaft driven cars.
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Old 10-10-2007, 08:33 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by charley View Post
Very little if any belt slippage in the corners. Why are all the new TC cars belt drive?

Pros: Shaft drive (should) equal less drag
Cons: Torsion on touring car may affect handling

Shaft is more direct (con) If it gets bent your screwed (pro) Belt is less easily damaged (con) stuff gets caught in belt and car doesn't move( I have never had this happen)

Well a shaft drive in the perfect world of formulas and books is more efficient, neglecting items like component distortion under load and such. The belt drive is easier to get working properly in the real world. with a belt drive if the chassis flexes you might get a couple of skips but with a solid shaft drive you bind the gears which could lock up the tires and that could get ugly.
Yes a shaft drive train is more efficient to a point:
Shaft Drive has torque steer because the motor is mounted parallel to the chassis. This is a drawback, and efficiency has it's limits, most people cannot turn that efficiency into a lower lap time because if you punch it out of a corner can you put the torque and power down to the ground, most people can't, and that is where the belt drive system has been winning out on chassis design, because the belt system transfers weight more which makes it easier to set the chassis up. Shaft drive had it's place with the TC3 era, because a more efficient drive train was needed because we ran 5 min on a 2400, 3000, or 3300mah battery. To make runtime it had to be efficient. Now the chassis advantage of belt, because the motor toque is positioned to squat the rear end for more traction and the give in the belts to smooth out the average persons reaction when coming out of a corner has offset the efficiency of a shaft drive train. Because with 4200 everyone can make 5 min no issues.
Good Luck with the car selection the best car for any club racer is the car with setup and parts support at the track. It is hard to campaign a car at the track nobody can help you with and when you brake it's a lot easier to walk to the counter and buy a arm or hub, than be your own hobby shop on wheels.

Good Luck!
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