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Old 10-31-2007, 07:41 PM   #16
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why not spend a 100.00 and find out for yourself...not to expensive and you can experiment with different set-ups,,just a thought
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Old 11-01-2007, 06:04 AM   #17
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you must have more budget than me... i need to find out before i buy!
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Old 11-01-2007, 07:37 AM   #18
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If $100.00 is too much for you - you might be in the wrong hobby.
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Old 11-01-2007, 07:59 AM   #19
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Funny, I just looked at a review of this chassis on the DRC drift site. The reviewer was mentioning how the chassis was extremely good out of the box for drifting, and I believe that front mount has something to do with it.

Keep in mind guys, the chassis doesn't need to be extremely stiff to drift well. This chassis is designed for the lower budget racer who just wants to drift, and essentially is HPI's answer to the TT-01. Even in the TT-01 the stock shaft is plastic that will flex anyways, and is basically the first upgrade on it.

If I were you, I wouldn't bash the chassis until you see it and drive it yourself. You probably would be really surprised...

I would get the E10 had this deal come up earlier this summer. I currently have a second hand TT-01, but nowhere really to drift it (besides by batteries dying out before even 10 minutes of driving...)
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Old 11-05-2007, 10:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pull-start View Post
If $100.00 is too much for you - you might be in the wrong hobby.
no.1 i'm in the uk, so everything costs twice as much

no.2 in the UK we use pounds :P so actually its $200!
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Old 11-05-2007, 04:11 PM   #21
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At least you have Mtroniks there in the UK

Not all of us can just go and blow $100 on a project. In the electric RC world, over time it may be a lot but it is one of the lesser expensive hobbies. I mean if you were playing golf, that's another story.

I've considered that Chassis, but I am curious-- if you unscrew the shocks, willl the arms fall down more? So if you were to make a mount where the shocks would mount lower on the chassis and the car was raised, would the drivetrain still function well? IF it did, I would give that chassis a shot.
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Old 12-14-2007, 11:40 AM   #22
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Hey guys. I've sold a few of these E10s here in my shop so far, great beginner car for anyone wanting to get into drifting. Price - $170 for an RTR with a battery in the box. Not a bad deal. Yes, like the TT-01 is is a very basic setup, but take it for what it is - a cheap way to get into the hobby.

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Old 12-14-2007, 01:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooshu Beef View Post
At least you have Mtroniks there in the UK

Not all of us can just go and blow $100 on a project. In the electric RC world, over time it may be a lot but it is one of the lesser expensive hobbies. I mean if you were playing golf, that's another story.

I've considered that Chassis, but I am curious-- if you unscrew the shocks, willl the arms fall down more? So if you were to make a mount where the shocks would mount lower on the chassis and the car was raised, would the drivetrain still function well? IF it did, I would give that chassis a shot.
yes, 13 for a 27t limit forwards only esc. they are waterproof though.

i guess you're planning on rallying it? i will to once i get something more raceable. it's my birthday tomorrow, and guess what i'm getting!!! the touring version though. i don't like drifting.x
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:00 PM   #24
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got mine yesterday. its a blast! i ran a pack through it outside, bone stock, but the ESC got hot!, so while the pack was charging, i swapped it for my LRP Bullet reverse, and i noticed an immediate increase in performance, as well as losing most of the annoying beeps and 2 second setup time of the old one.

the chassis is well thought out and put together, and with a tiny bit of modification, can be given nearly an inch of ground clearance! (the rear drops straight down as soon as you take the shocks off, but the front needs the steering modified VERY slightly) my only qualm with the chassis is that the driveshaft slips out of the front bevel gear, and so you get intermittent 4wd, and i'm emailing HPI to see what they can do. i might also see if i can get an aluminium one machined up.

out of the box, the bodyshell was slightly too low, and meant every time i turned a corner the shell scraped and made a terrible noise, but the adjustable body posts meant i could raise it up anyway.

with the stock motor it's a bit sluggish, maybe because the gearing is incredibly conservative (22t pinion and 65t spur), but a new motor and pinion will sort that out. the stock 1500mah battery pack also gets toasty warm, and i don't think it should, but it hasn't detonated yet.

also, the wheels are screw on, and theres so much slop in the rear wheels i could steer with them. the wheels came off after a few RWD donuts, but i think some loctite, or even better, a proper hex hub kit would make that better. the tyres are adaquate, and grip fairly well at the low speeds the car goes at. we'll have to see how it does with a 30t pinion

overall, an excellent begginers car, it just needs a few bugs ironed out. expect it to be the new TT01 any time soon!
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:03 AM   #25
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Default Motor question

I just bought one of these E10's from my son, as he is moving out of state for awhile. He just bought it and a Mamba 5700 Sidewinder combo. I installed the Mamba for him. The car cannot handle the 5700 on the stock pinion. A smaller pinion won't mesh into the spur due to a lack of enough adjustment.

I went last night and bought 4 regular tires and wheels for it because I'm not into the drifting stuff. I also bought an aluminum shaft for it. The stock shaft is useless!

Now for my question.....the stock ESC will handle down to a 20 turn brushed motor. I have a Kyosho 19T Endoplasma. Any opinons as to whether I can get away with the 19T Endo?? I'm pulling the Mamba out for a more suitable application.

Thanks,

Jim

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Old 12-28-2008, 06:59 AM   #26
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Your son would be much happier with another chassis such as a sprint2, losi drift-r or TA05. those three cars are pretty much bombproof, would be able to handle the power from a brushless, and already have a large assortment of parts already available. The drift-r comes RTR with perhaps a better setup overall.

I can't put much faith into the esc handling a 19t motor, because even at the limit, the esc is working quite hard. any more and it might just end up eating itself.
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Old 01-12-2009, 01:48 AM   #27
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Hello ppl...

I m glad that finally after browsing aroung R/C Tech Forum, I finally found HPI E10 Thread...

I've bought E10 a few weeks ago... At 1st, I thought I wanna go 4 touring... Seems like I couldn't keep up with the Big Guns...

I've changed my setup 2 Drift... At the moment, I m still learning how 2 drift this car... I hope U guys can gimme more info about this machine...

Thanx a lot...
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Old 01-20-2009, 03:30 AM   #28
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Questions?? The Best Tyre 4 HPI E10

Hello ppl...

Could ya'll tell me which tyres suit the best 4 our car (4 drifting)?

Thanx...
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Chassis : Schumacher Mi3.5 Pro
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Battery Pack : Orion 3800mAh 30C Lipo/TrakPower 3600mAh 30C Lipo
Servo : Team Orion VDS-1007
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:01 AM   #29
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Default Little help.

Hi i got a question for u guys, really hoping u guys could help me out and answer it.
Im a newbie when it comes to R/C cars and i got my first one last night. i got a RTR E10 Ford GT LM spec II bodyshell with official Gran Turismo. I was wondering can i drift with this car? is it possible? if so what do i need for me to start drifting.
Thank you in advance.
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:22 PM   #30
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i ordered the HPI E10 AE86 RTR Drift car last week and received it on thursday. i charged the battery for the 6 hours the manuals tells you too, and it let the wheels spin for about 4 seconds. i then decided to go out to my local hobby shop in MI, dumped $287 on a 9000kv castle brushless, mamba max pro ESC, and a 2 cell LiPo. the stock plastic drift tires dont get shit for grip with this setup, so i need to move to rubber

also, i ordered the adjustable shocks, 2sets because they come in sets of 2($65 shipped for both sets), and the camber kit which was dirt cheap and will improve handling(i wanna say it was like maybe $18 shipped), and a new set of wheels for it with a 6mm offset, cuz i need the car to look good. i figured the Work Meisters with the gold face and chrome lip would suffice

my only compaint so far is the steering angle. i feel like a another 10 degrees would make a world of difference. i dont know if a better servo might help or what so id appreciate some input

the next things i plan on buying for this is some of the rubber drift tires, cuz i need way more grip, all aluminum steering components, aluminum motor mount/heat sink, and most importantly an aluminum driveshaft
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