kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Check again - you may be right. Either way, the High Traction Arms are stiffer and aren't better for the car on asphalt using the 3mm chassis, 2.5mm top deck and foams.

axel

Well guys i'm gonna run my pro4 again this weekend on asphalt til i get a proper setting. I think my main probelm was my new springs...i'm gonna switch back to box setup. But i've also made adj. that the manual recommended for asphalt. I'm also changing kick-up, rear anti-squat settings.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

nope..the high traction arms are more flexible.
I have a set and you can twist it with your hands.

from the japan website and translated to english:

"ハイトラクションサスペンションアーム which modifies the material and normal compared to can give pliability. When the road surface whose grip is bad and the key liking to hold down behavior tweet, it is optimum to use. And it is effective as a portion of setting it is possible regarding the high grip road surface to change steering wheel quality by the fact that uses on only the front."

Skill

Yep I second that. The Pro 4 comes with the moulded graphite wishbones as standard which are really stiff. The high traction arms are made of normal plastic and are much more flexible than the standard ones.

Just as a side note, the high traction arms will have a dab of yellow/green paint on them to indicate that they are the high traction arms and not the standard ones.

axel

it's too bad you can't find them here.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

The translation sounds like a contradiction. . I just tried to flex both arms and found the high traction arm to be slightly more pliable near the outer portion, where you connect the hub. I found the arms worked good on carpet as they appearded to allowed the suspension to be controlled by the shocks.

Question: If, the arms are designed for high traction such as carpet, maybe permanent, well-groomed asphalt tracks and outdoor track's (asphalt / parking lots - majority of tracks, here in the states) traction is pale in comparison, why would you use them outdoors? Besides... the translation you're giving, says to use them up front - although, they're packaged with one front and rear arm. I used them front and rear on carpet with very good results. If, you guys want to try them outside, go ahead. Let us know how they worked for you.

axel

Why do my shocks keep squeeking?! Aren't they suppose to be quiet?

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

gears and bevel gears? Since I got a .80 Pro 4, I'm going to need to get some new gears.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like your o-rings are worn. Rebuild the shocks with new o-rings. If, the shafts have scratches on them, replace them too.

dizzy1

iTrader: (29)

The high traction arms allow more flex in the arms to help mask some setup issues, same reason you run a 2mm chassis, too increase flex. THe stiffer the arms/chassis, the more perfect your setup will need to be to dial in the car. The name for the arms means you get higher traction, but it doesn't mean use on high traction tracks. For asphalt, use them and 2 mm chassis. For carpet with foams, use the 3mm chassis and the stock graphite arms.

Erik Shauver

Alright, alright people...

First off, if you are stripping gears with a spool, I am 99.9% sure that the front bevel gears need more shims. The front gear set should be shimmed so there is anywhere from no backlash, to just around a 1mm or so back and forth movement measured at the outermost part of the larger bevel gear (backlash). If you crash alot, shim tighter. If you use the one-way, shim tighter. If you use the front diff, you can go a touch looser.

Second, rc-z, sorry no separate sales of the outer sleeve for the Hara edition (maybe someone can donate their outer sleeve of the Hara box to rcz??)

Third, the high traction arms are supposed to give high traction. These optional arms are SOFTER than the stock arms. Since they are more compliant, they will offer slightly more grip but you will lose responsiveness. The last line of the Japanese translation is alluding to the idea that you can use the softer arms up front only in a similar fashion to using a lighter spring to gain steering.

Fourth, the aluminum gear shafts (Japanese spec gear as part of the shaft) won't be as efficient as std gears, however they should be more durable... see point one. The aluminum input shafts from the Hara Pro 4 offer the most benefit as they are light, the drivetrain is still very free, and they eliminate the shims on the input shafts.

RCKnight: Give HPI USA customer service a call at 949.753.1099. Let them know you bought a Pro 4 with the older gears and they should be able to help you out.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the clarity.

Din Viesel

Hey guys,

I was hoping you could answer a question for me? I have been supporting the same car manufacturer now for almost 5 yrs I was even recieving partial sponsorship. Now I have been told that support to North America is going to be pretty much stopped.

I am very much interested in the Pro 4... My question is...Is it worth it for me to buy the Hara Edition or just buy the standard Pro 4 and add the optional parts as needed?

There is no one in my area that I know of running a HPI, and from what I have been reading on this thread there are alot of you that seem to be pretty devoted to this car, so your input is not only respected but will make my decision on which car to run and shoot for another sponsorship!

Thanks

axel

i would go for the hara edition...it's been improved for asphalt and comes with hop-ups that you probably would have baught anyways.
Hope this helps