PD2

So I'm just curious, are a lot of you Pro4 owners going to keep your cars and continue to race them or are you gonna follow the trend and sell them/get rid of them and go to the Hara Edition or even the Cyclone?

Do either of those new kits give you a big advantage when it comes to asphalt modified racing?

Just wondering.

Thanks!
PD2

nomaak

the hara is just a hop-up version of the pro-4. but the pro-4 is VERY capable for mod asphalt straight out of the box. that's it's purpose.

PD2

Well, so far I have been told that it is capable straight out of the box and then I got told that the chassis needs to be switched to the 2.0mm chassis.

The reason I question this is the fact that there are so many Pro4 kits for sale right now. Just wondering if its time to part with it and move on or keep on going. Good thing, I guess, is that HPI has not discontinued the kit and parts.

PD2

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

The Pro4 has lost favor with a lot of the TC crowd,does this mean that the car is slow or out dated..no.If you have been racing for a while I'm sure you have noticed some guys change cars about every 4 or 5 months.. I could include my self in this group( )But I'm still faster with my Pro4 than i am with any of my other TC's.I don't think the Hara Pro4 is going to be any faster than the stock Pro4,Just more Bling.If you like the Pro4 and your fast with it why change,If you don't like the car you should get rid of it.I still think for stock class racing the Pro4 is the fastest car out their.

PD2

I guess I'm going to have to just get my belt car and the Pro4 and get some timed laps in and see which is better or faster for the asphalt modified.

I was just concerned that the car was going to loose its value/worth with a saturation of Pro4's coming up for sale for whatever reason.

You say its the fastest car for stock class, but what about modified? And is that stock class carpet, asphalt, or both? Right now all we have is modified 10T limit, rubber tire only, asphalt racing - no 19T and no stock class racing at all. I'm just trying to make sure I have a car that is not only the best for the class, but also one that is going to stick around with parts support and continued racing setups.

PD2

tc3 racer sc

well i just put my 3.0 chassis on put the new motor mount on redy for some carpet want to know will i tell a diffrent from 2,5 to 3.0 on carpet from last yr cpl week a go i ran the 2.o

JHardy

iTrader: (14)

What is the best way to create a tight car or make it have a good push? On about a 6ft left turn my car wants to roll over in the middle. I m running on a carpet oval with plaid front and purple foams with just about a stock setup.

thanks guys

Nicadrauspro4

As for your question, selling the pro4 if you have one is a big mistake. I have a pro4 and I'm very much happy with it. All it needs is a proper set up depending on what on-road surface you are running to. The pro4 is a very competitive tourer. Changing it to another car it not neccessary. Yes, other people go with the trend of replacing their cars with newer models but I believe not with the pro4. Upgrading it to Hara edition or 2005 edition will surely make your car look better, but it doesn't mean it will go faster. Right? But of course, there are a few parts that came out as hop-ups and best to replace them with it, like the delrin outdrives (tougher and lighter than stock), aluminum center cup joint, aluminum bevel gears (both parts are tougher too) and heatsink motor plate.

I agree with xxxkat. Some newer parts are just "bling".

aoizip

iTrader: (1)

quick question. Is it worth it getting the Sqaure alum. caster block(3 degree)???
or i should invest my good hard earn 30buck into the graphite one?

Thanks,

~Ming

Stork

Are you talknig about the Stock ones? I have the Square Camber blocks and have been fiarly happy with them. One is slighlty bent from some of the shots it took, but I found the HPI ones to be way to fragile. I found it was worth the money.

Also has anyone been having a problem with the Stock steering knuckle. Lately that seems to be my favorite part to break. I'm actually breaking them where the beaings sit (along the mold seam) and the top and bottom stays screwed in.

aoizip

iTrader: (1)

you can try to get the shooter alum steering knockle.
so far mine holds up pretty good.

I am not really sure about the square alum one tho.
someone can chip in and help

~Ming

PD2

Thanks! I thought so, but was a tad concerned like I said when I saw so many going up for sale and many racers switching - guess its all about the bling and what the sponsor tells you to drive.

The unfortunate side of this is that financial circumstances have recently hit me and it looks like I'm going to have to sell my car before I can really enjoy it fully. I appreciate every one's help with stuff and maybe when things get back in line financially I will grab me another one.

Thanks!
PD2

jimlazaro

iTrader: (2)

HERE WE GO AGAIN OK ANYONE KNOW'S WHERE CAN I BUY THE CVD TITANIUM(FRONT)SO NO MORE BEND OR SNAP WHEN YOU USING SPOOL

floodo1

yeah again: solutions for cvd's -> tc4 or TiR.
tc4 you just need to buy the bone, its blue so it wont match but its durable
TiR (titanium racing) is a full cvd unit with titanium axle as well. all parts are exclusive to TiR which may be a problem for you. also TiR has a slightly modified thread on the axle to hold the std nut better.

Tc4 on the cheap TiR on the quality imo.

either way you wont be jacking cvd's daily and you wont have to resort to steel dogbone

floodo1

aight i'll finally weigh in on the aluminum suspension pieces.

you really shouldnt run them unless you really need to. they are heavy, which is especially bad because they are unsprung weight, and also they can bend.

if you're having durability problems with the graphite pieces then by all means switch to aluminum. some increase in unsprung weight is better than not finishing races. but if you can avoid it you really should.

the only real advantage besides durability is dimensional accuracy, but this really isnt an issue with the graphite pieces.

they look cool, but strictly performance speaking (ignoring durability) they are worse.

if you look the HB/HPI guys seem to hardly run alum susp parts, and a lot of the other factories run alum pieces that arent avail in plastic (like 1/2 degree toe hub carriers, or 3deg castor block type of parts).

one more thing to consider is that it sux a LOT more when you snap a ballstud off in an alum part compared to doing the same to a plastic piece.


not trying to hate AT ALL, just letting peeps know whats up